[Closed] Early morning shock purchase advice needed.

Do you like tinkering? There are a lot of adjustments on the CC shocks so can take a while to set up. Though once set up they are ace. But more costly than the rp23. Most seen to go for enough second hand that they are not worth it over new (less than a service cost difference between new and used!). Think the IL coil has proved reliable. It was the air version that had issues (in the air can rather than damper iirc).

Check that the IL Coil is suitable for your bike. There have been problems with Levos snapping shock shafts. CC increased the diameter of the shaft to combat this but it still happens. Buying new gives you warranty peace of mind.

I thought G-160’s had a regressive rate and so a coil was a massive no no?

YEah i love a bit of tinkering, usually i use a Shockwiz which clearly will be no use in this instance LOL. But i think i've got to the stage i can dial a rear in without one now.

I'm under no illusion it's more expensive, but you know what, it's been a long year and a longer winter, so Saurdays disappointment of the shock being banjaxed really outweighs any cost. I've had the bike 18 months now and love it and can't see me changing it for ages, considering i only paid £1025 for the G-160 i think it can take the hit of a purchase without me being unhappy. I can of course also sell the Monarch RC3 when it's sorted/replace by SRAM.

I need to shout TFT when they open to ensure there's not a 3-4 week turnaround on it for example, the sun is coming this weekend and i don't want to miss the nice weather waiting for a shock. So that could also play a factor.

Check that the IL Coil is suitable for your bike.

I thought G-160’s had a regressive rate and so a coil was a massive no no?

This is why i started the thread before pressing the button on my basket.

Firstly, check how ? I'm struggling to find any information, but the pic above certainly implies it fits the bike.

I have absolutely no idea what a regressive rate is, let alone the effect it would have by fitting a coil....

I think broadly that the G160 suspension setup needs less force to compress the further it goes through the travel. By using an air shock which is naturally progressive this balances out. But a coil is generally linear and so I think that means it will bottom out a lot. I did some digging into this when my monarch blew up on mine and I think the consensus was that a coil wouldn’t work properly. I am not a suspension expert so may have all of that completely wrong.

It sounds like you've done some research which is a good start for me mate, even if you're wrong, it's nice to have another bit of information, so thank you.

Premier Icon
kneebiscuit
Full Member

I thought G-160’s had a regressive rate and so a coil was a massive no no?

This, it’s likely to feel like shite as it won’t ramp up as required, and 160s need all the help they can get. Folk on the Facebook groups bang on about how good it is, but when pushed finally admit they’ve had to whack on a massive amount of Low Speed Compression and the small bump is ruined.

However...... swap the spring out for a Cane Creek progressive spring and it might just work

and 160s need all the help they can get

Oh i've been more than happy with mine, it's way better than me.

The progressive spring is an interesting thought though, i've used them on motorbikes before.

BTW, if anyone is sitting there thinking "why the heck don't you just buy...."

Then feel free to let me know what that one is... I'm not set on these 2 options, if there's something better that isn't ridiculous money, then shoot. I'd prefer it not to have an external air can though, but if that can't be helped then so be it.

Inline on an enduro bike? I'd be looking at the regular Double Barrel at that shock stroke, db inlines have a bit of history with popping, the newer ones are much better, never had any issues at the shorter strokes.

A quick search mirrors what others above have said about the regressive rate, you really want an air shock in there.

https://j-techsuspension.co.uk/collections/shocks/products/cane-creek-dbair-cs?variant=720140173337

Not sure i'd need the CS, (climb Switch) over the standard DB Air IL if i were to go with air.
https://www.tftuned.com/shocks/cane-creek/cane-creek-db-air-il/c406

J-tech don't show it in stock in the 216*63 and it's a lot more expensive than the DB IL if bought from TFTuned. But then i'm sitting thinking, if i'm going air, why not just stick with the cheaper Fox RP23 anyway.

Along with the fact the DBair looks very 'fat' around the top and i worry slightly about fitting and clearnace.

2016 G160 linkage analysis

https://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2015/08/whyte-g-160-275-2016.html?m=1

It's slightly progressive then massively regressive, so unless they've changed it on whatever model year yours is, it's pretty unsuitable for a coil.

I've tried a coil on a linear bike and whilst it's obviously completely ridable as above you either need to up the spring rate or add loads of compression damping so you end up with a harsh ride and a heavy shock.

A progressive spring or coil with a air bottom out system might work ok but if it was me I'd just stick with air as that's what the frame is designed for.

OK, right, brilliant information guys, we'll scrap the coil idea then.

So currently i've got the RP23 at £115 with 12 months (theoretical) warranty or the CC DB Air IL at £359 i believe also with 12 months warranty.

I guess i could stick with the RP23 in the short term, see how it goes and i wouldn't really lose anything if i out it after a few months, plus it also gets me back out on the trails ASAP. But obviously the RP23 is quite old technology compared to the CC shocks.

That’s the link I was trying to find. 👍. I did read about the progressive coils and I think I came to the conclusion they weren’t progressive enough to overcome that regressive rate, so at best would end up linear-ish

The good thing is, all are cheaper than this which i was tempted to just say "sod it all, lets buy this" https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/bikes/frames/specialized-stumpjumper-evo-carbon-275-frame-set-carbon-satin-carbon__329827

Oh i’ve been more than happy with mine, it’s way better than me.

Indeed, but have you not whacked in a load of volume spacers?

I’ll sell you that Fox DPX back to you, COVID tax will MASSIVELY affect the price though 😉

NAh, i only had 2 in there. BUt i was wondering at first if it was me messing about fitting spacers that's causing my issues by blocking something etc ?

The DPX indeed sounds ideal... but i'm still troubled by the 'modifications' needed as you've never shown me what they are 😀

Along with the fact it then means i potentially can't run a water bottle if it's as sticky out at the RC3 is.

IMO the G-160 doesn't work well with a coil due to its lack of progressiveness, just like my S-150.

Weeksy as a massive improvement over monarchs, fox rp23 and near coil plushness and tuning I would strongly recommend picking up a DVO topaz. Made a major improvement to my Hightower. Super supple without blowing through the travel which the original fox did. Lots of tuning options send very easy to service at home. The guys there are super helpful and excellent service even though they are stateside.

I got a new one for around £300, sports pursuit we’re doing a good deal not so long ago.

As others have said & highlighted, if it's not progressive enough (and yours is regressive, so definitely not) then a coil won't work. It won't even work properly with a progressive spring, there just isn't enough support there for the shock.

As for the RP23, it was a great shock, about 10 years ago.

DB Air wouldn't be my choice for an air. For something you can bolt on, with minimal adjustments you can make a mess of which works well, i'd struggle to see past a DPX2. Get a Factory, or Performance Elite model, it has a lockout, trail & open mode, with separate low speed compression & rebound adjusters.

I would strongly recommend picking up a DVO topaz

Find me one in a 216*63 and i will, but i cannot.

i’d struggle to see past a DPX2.

Water bottle aside, there's also the mounting issues which Mashr seems to know about. I thought it was the top mount, frame side that needs 'tweaking' but if it's the Yoke, then i wouldn't actually mind modding that slightly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-DPX2-Factory-2018-216x63-8-5x2-5/233894764501?hash=item367536dfd5:g:Vb8AAOSwppZgJ787

That's not a terrible price..

Seems inline with this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-DPX2-2019-Performance-FLOAT-Rear-Shock-216x63mm-3-pos-Enduro-MTB/265045836907?hash=item3db5f6846b:g:3c4AAOSw-HZgIasV

Aha I may be able to help! I have a Topaz T3 216x63 that's been sat in his box after being serviced by a DVO registered service centre. PM me if you're interested. Brilliant shock btw just doesn't fit my megatower.

Haven’t clicked the eBay links but I’d be checking the fox tune ID on the can. And having a look which bike it came from and looking at the suspension of that model. Depending on the tune - it could end up being not suited to the bike. Either that, or budget for a revalve/tune.

PM me if you’re interested

done.

Haven’t clicked the eBay links but I’d be checking the fox tune ID on the can. And having a look which bike it came from and looking at the suspension of that model. Depending on the tune – it could end up being not suited to the bike. Either that, or budget for a revalve/tune.

All very complex this... not sure i'm good enough to notice.

Water bottle aside, there’s also the mounting issues which Mashr seems to know about. I thought it was the top mount, frame side that needs ‘tweaking’ but if it’s the Yoke, then i wouldn’t actually mind modding that slightly

What mounting issues? I would be 'really' surprised if a DPX2 didn't fit. Water bottle issues can be resolved easily, Wolftooth make the mount adapters which mean you can run the cage lower.

Of the two you linked the Factory one is the better shock, the second is the more basic one - you can get the all black shock but it needs to be the Elite version to get the low speed compression adjuster (small adjuster in the middle of the blue dial).

And not wanting to piss on others chips, i'd run one every day of the week over anything by DVO. Couple of calls to suspension tuners would confirm that would be a good decision 🙂

I tried the wolftooth cage mount and it still didn’t help with water bottle mounting. Interested to hear how you get on with the DVO if you go that route

What mounting issues?

I don't know the details, it's something to do with the mounts needing some filing but as i say, i'm not sure at which end it is an issue.

I've got a relocator for the bottle cage on there, but it still only allowed me to fit a 400ml bottle which is a bit child like, that is, with the RC3 shock.

Haven’t clicked the eBay links but I’d be checking the fox tune ID on the can. And having a look which bike it came from and looking at the suspension of that model. Depending on the tune – it could end up being not suited to the bike. Either that, or budget for a revalve/tune.

All very complex this… not sure i’m good enough to notice.

The db air inline is very good and you should be able to set up a base tune for your weight for most bikes. Just checked on the dialed app - the 2017 G-160 is on there with a base tune for a db air inline.

Just want to say thank you to all, irrespective of what i go for or don't, i very much appreciate the input anyhow. It may also serve as useful for other people with the same frame on google searches too, so thanks.

The yoke end will be where you struggle with fitting non RS (monarch) shocks. I've cut a standard yoke in half and machined it out to fit the profile of other shock boddies above the eyelet. But this won't help with your shocks being side loaded.

I've got a Fox X2 mounted with a custom yoke that flips the bolt to vertical so the shock is free to pivot side to side and not be flexed by being pushed sideways in the front mount. I would no way go with a coil on a g160, I have the X2 over packed with volume reducers to make it far more progressive.

The problem you are having with your shocks is miss-alignment and flex in the frame, linkage and bearings. Rockshox are particularly bad for this seemingly though as they don't deal with being flexed.

I have absolutely no idea what a regressive rate is, let alone the effect it would have by fitting a coil….

I think people have covered this....

RE the CCDB air IL.... i've one on my stumpy and it's brill.
I LOVE tinkering, so the 4 dials really appeals to me..once you actually understand them, you can get a great shock set up.
Also teh climb switch is WAAAY fancier than a simple lockout - it increases comp AND rebound damping. I can deffo tell the difference.

Mine was in a super cheap TFT sell out... £240 or something.... but worth it.

DrP

Inline on an enduro bike? I’d be looking at the regular Double Barrel at that shock stroke, db inlines have a bit of history with popping, the newer ones are much better, never had any issues at the shorter strokes

no issues with mine coming down munros.

I would look for a manitou macleod shock to replace the stock one.

Weeksy,

I have a CCDB CS - so the piggy back version. I could not get the inline to work with my weight ( 105 kg). I was running it at 240 psi to sort out the correct sag - and then getting about 5mm of movement through out the stoke. Drop the Psi - and sag was about 40 %. Quick talk with Cy - and he swapped it for a CS version - which is great. I run at 170 psi - with no compression damping , but tinker with the rebound, and it has been very good.

I’ve got the Wolftooth mount, combined with a slightly shorter bottle (Prime, Nukeproof, 76 Projects and Elite do them for starters, still 550ml) it works fine. I’ve now seen that 76Projects do one for half the price

The tweek is just filing away the yoke in the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. You can see exactly what needs done when you line up the shock. Doubt it took longer than 10mins to do, and doesn’t even need the yoke off the bike

I’ve got a CCDB inline coil with climbswitch fitted to my Whyte S150s.

I’ve no idea how the suspension action compares to the G160 but it performs faultlessly on my S150.

I bought it from TF tuned who set it up; the only change I made was to back off the high speed compression & rebound. I can’t fault it.

I weigh 15 stone but I am fairly smooth.

Right then kids.... I've gone for the DVO Topaz as per the seller up above.... couple of reasons.

1. It's nice to keep it within STW
2. I fancy trying a DVO actually as i've read lots about them before.
3. it's green... so is my frame 🙂

I've got a Topaz T3 on my Ripmo and it's by far the best air shock I've had. TBF I've generally only had base versions of Fox air shocks and more recently a RS Super Deluxe R and the Topaz has performed better than any of those.
DVO are super helpful if you have any questions on set up too.

The other thing you may have issues with is the diameter of the shock body in the middle of the stroke where the shock swings closest to the frame. You can put an offset bush in the front mount to bring the shock down away from the tube but not alter the "length", it will have the added bonus of fractionally reduce the regression on the linkage rate as it brings the shock slightly more in to the tangent of the rocker at the end of the stroke.

G150 and 160 are quite different in regards to linkage.

Oh and bumbag for the water bottle gains huge amounts of room in the frame and saves weight on the bike...

Oh and bumbag for the water bottle

stop right there.

@mashr- care to share which bottle cage etc you used? Would love to squeeze a bottle in on mine but every option I tried didn’t work.

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50945346448_173aeb593e_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50945346448_173aeb593e_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kBSdAd ]2021-02-15_12-00-43[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr

Decathlon own side mount bottle cage. The water bottle is a Hoy. 450ml. I'll try and see if my 550-600s fit when the DVO is on on Weds.

Premier Icon
kneebiscuit
Full Member

@mashr- care to share which bottle cage etc you used? Would love to squeeze a bottle in on mine but every option I tried didn’t work.

Wolftooth adapter
Specialized Zee cage
Elite Fly bottle (Prime Race appears to be identical, but not actually any cheaper)
All on a medium frame. Looks like:

https://imgur.com/gallery/DJlteuv

Thanks for that. I have the Monarch piggy back shock and I think the piggyback is a bit longer than the fox, hence my struggles. Shame.

I'm thinking of getting a coil for my 27.5 Jeffsy which is a very progressive frame, apparently quite well suited to a coil, thought I'd piggyback off this thread! Anyone have experience with the rockshox superdeluxe ultimate?

BPW fitted a factory DPX2 to my G160S (size medium) over lunch mid Mini-Enduro after the Monarch collapsed and they never mentioned anything about filing mounts. I never noticed that they had but it did get stolen only 2 weeks later.

That DPX2 was a massive improvement over the Monarch but unfortunately I obviously cannot speak for longevity 🙁

I believe I still have the box in the garage if any numbers of it would help.

I'm ok thanks Baldie, i went for the DVO Topaz.

Premier Icon
baldiebenty
Free Member

BPW fitted a factory DPX2 to my G160S (size medium) over lunch mid Mini-Enduro after the Monarch collapsed and they never mentioned anything about filing mounts. I never noticed that they had but it did get stolen only 2 weeks later

They definitely did, it’s miles from being able to put the shock bolt through otherwise

Well the DVO purchase fell apart, so once again we're in a shock quandry.

So last night about 8pm i pressed the button on a Cane Creek DB IL Air Black, 216*63.

This morning the guys at Jtech called me with "shock is delayed, it's due now in about a month, it's held up in transit"

Shhhhesh. Not their fault, just the world in which we find ourselves currently as we all know.

Now weirdly I blew some air at the little holes that some people report as getting blocked on the Monarch shocks and, well, the Monarch is working like a charm currently. But I've mostly lost faith in it. However as I say, it is currently working fine, but for how long is anyones guess.

The great news is, Jtech will sort the warranty process for me if I want the Monarch doing for nothing more than the price if postage. Which is brilliant of them, but leaves me in a minor quandary now.

The weather next week is looking far more friendly and it'd be a shame to miss it all. So maybe the plan is to leave the DB air order in place and see if the monarch holds out until that arrives, then send it off for warranty once it does.
Jtech are also looking into their stock to see what they do have in 216*63 I can get right away, but I'm guessing, not much.

Then i spoke to TFTuned and they say they have a 216*63 DB air in stock and ready to ship.... So do i wait for J-tech, do i get the DB air from TFT or do i see if the Monarch stays alive for more than an hour LOL.
It really shouldn't be this complicated i know... but yet somehow this is where we find ourselves LOL.

if you want to ride now,
Get the tf tuned shock.
Get the monarch fixed.
Either keep both or sell one.

I have ended up with 3 shocks down to this method, then broke my frame twice!

Get the tf tuned shock.
Get the monarch fixed.

Yeah that's the road i've gone down. Ordered it from TFTuned.

not read the whole thread, has anyone mentioned fitting a progressive spring? that would help with the regressive rate

I've just bit the bullet too and ordered a new shock from TF Tuned, RS Super Deluxe Ultimate RCT Coil. Unfortunately they're not getting any in stock until June but I'm happy to have it on preorder. Can't wait for it to be summer now!

They were super helpful when I called them too, really friendly and knowledgeable.

Progressive spring was mentioned but Jtech and TFTuned said to go air. So the shock will arrive on Tues. Luckily I've got other bikes if my riding buddy plays out.

I may even throw some air in my boys SWorks and try it out. I've not ridden it with correct pressure in it.

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50978826163_fc91062845_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50978826163_fc91062845_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kEPNWF ]2021-02-25_03-30-07[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr

Well the lovely Kashima coated shock arrived and based upon early testing, i love it. It seems more plush than the RC3, which i'll find out more when i ride in anger tomorrow with the Shockwiz on 🙂

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50981926857_5ac6941c14_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50981926857_5ac6941c14_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kF6GEV ]G160 fox rp23[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr

Pretty darn happy with that for first try 🙂 not far off at all. I'm getting better at this 🙂

Thought you ordered a DB for TF?

I did, but we had a few delivery/sending issues so it was cancelled.

With needing a new shock for the Sworks too as the Ohlins died, plus a BikeYoke, it made more sense in the end cost wise as the RP23 was a refurbished one for £150, the new RS for the Sworks was £125 and the Bikeyoke £95, so came in about the same price as a new DB IL Air. Meaning we don't need to spend another £360 on a shock for his Sworks, sometimes you can't have the best and shiniest.

I've also got the Monarch RC3 which i'll get back sometime from SRAM which will act as an emergency spare for both our bikes

Just to say I had a rockshox monarch rl that wore out very quickly on my Kona Process 134 (2016 old frame design).

There was some discussion about maybe my frame being misalignment or the suspension design being an issue when I posted about it on here.

I fitted a fox dpx2 and it has lasted much better. TfTuned said it's insides were immaculate at the last service.

So I think either the monarch shock is rubbish, or there were some duff batches!?

Some rave about the Monarch RC3, it's supposed to be a great shock. However, the RP23 deffo feels nicer than the RC3 did to me. I won't actualy fit it unless we have to once it comes back from SRAM. If i thought anyone would give me a decent price i'd sell it LOL.

Well jeepers this saga is on-going WAY more than i'd like.

I bought and fitted the Kashima RP23, really nice, really plush and excellent. It also allowed me to run a proper sized water bottle, again, GREAT.

However, 2nd time on the bike i re-set up with Shockwiz, which means you cycle the suspension without air in to measure the stroke etc. After that i have sucky/squelchy noise, which is somewhat irritating, well more than somewhat actually... VERY irritating.

So it's going back to the service center i got it from to either be repaired, replaced or refunded. Dunno which at this stage.

Good news is, the Monarch RC3+ came back from SRAM and is sorted, i was going to sell it to a forum guy, but i've now had to fit to the G-160 while the Fox is away.

I must admit, i'm sitting here thinking "Sod it, i'm going to buy the bloody coil shock" even though it's thought to not fit the profile and suspension style of the bike, it would at least remove this issue with having shocks irritating me lots.

Happily, the RC3+ is quiet and i know it works well (when it's working anyway) so i'll happily run it at the moment for sure. But i must admit, my confidence in it isn't high.

Bit of an update on this saga.

The RC3+ was a pain because i couldn't run a water bottle... simply doesn't fit in the frame unless 400ml... which was also then still a nightmare to get in and out. So the RC3+ was sold on.

I ran the Fox RP23 until today... because yesterday (or earlier in week) it started with the slushy noise again so that's going back to the guy i bought it from and being repaired or possibly even replaced with something to use as a spare.

In the meantime i decided it was time to man up with the wallet and a Cane Creek DB IL Air has been ordered from TFTuned. MTBing is my main activity and expense and sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and get the bank account out

You should try and tune it yourself using the CC guide before attaching the shockwiz to it.

You should try and tune it yourself using the CC guide before attaching the shockwiz to it.

Sounds like a plan... well it would if my lad hadn't lost my sodding shock pump in the last week, so i'll have to borrow one from a mate.

Lol this is getting ****ing silly now. Bloke I got the RP23 from sent me a Monarch deluxe RT to replace the faulty rp23. Brilliant, well it would be if it actually fitted lol.
It's a known issue on Whytes that the yoke only fits specific models, but it can be filed to fit the others. However not this one.
My lad has a Deluxe in his SWorks so i also tried his with my yoke and yup, it doesn't fit either.

So I've now got the following

1. Monarch deluxe RT, doesn't fit mine but fits my lads nicely
2. Monarch RCT, squelch noise
3. Monarch R, squats no return

[img] [/img]
[url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/51165165366/ ]2021-05-08_12-51-35[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url] - [url= https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dariogf.flickr2BBcode_lite ]Flickr2BBcode LITE[/url]

[img] [/img]
[url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/51165401418/ ]2021-05-08_12-50-59[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url] - [url= https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dariogf.flickr2BBcode_lite ]Flickr2BBcode LITE[/url]

This is an absolute farce !!!

I reckon you're right buy a coil.
When I had endless ( 4 failures in the space of one cassette) on my bike the accepted wisdom was Ohlins TTX. Which Spec eventually got me.

No idea if it was any good as I got fed up and sold the bike immediately, but some kind chap on STW gave me loads of info which was really helpful.

Weird thing was that some internet random messaged me on Gumtree after it sold, not to buy the bike, but to get the full skinny on what the accepted procedure was to force Spec to provide the TTX as the warranty replacement.

Apparently the Enduro link is rigid in one particular dimension, which it shouldn't be. It places loads of lateral force on the shock, which the Rockshocks can't handle.

Could your Whyte have a similar issue?

I think it comes down to some poor luck and some poor decision making.

The RC3+ was the best shock out of the ones i've had, but i had issues with that and because it was from Germany it was trickier to warranty, that added to the water bottle/cage issue meant i sold it on.
However, i do have one arriving from Tredz..... Yes an RC3+ Even though it has the bottle/cage issue, it worked well (until it broke)

I can keep the 210*52.5 Deluxe as a spare for my lads bike.... so there's no big issue there, but i have listed it and will try and get a good price.

My big questions are.
1. Do i send off the RCT and the Monarch R next week to Sprung Suspension for repair.
2. Do i sell the RCT at a loss (been offered £100 on ebay up to now, paid £160 for it)
3. Do i just fit the RC3+ that arrives early next week from Tredz (It's been shipped by TNT)

Obviously i don't need the RC3, Monarch R and the RCT for my bike, that's crazy talk. So i'm leaning towards selling the RCT at a loss, then sending the Monarch R to sprung to see if they can repair it.. If they can, it lives in spares box, if they can't, well at least we know. Then fitting the RC3+ from Tredz next week and using it until it explodes, or hopefully until it doesn't explode.

The coil option, every time i think of it, someone from here puts me off them saying about the suspension/linkage/etc not being suited to the Whyte and it will ride badly...But heck i'm not even sure i'm good enough to notice. I also don't know if i can find a coil at a sensible price at the moment in the right size. I could get the Cane Creek potentially but is that going to be any better/worse than the RC3+, heck i'm so deep into this with shocks i don't even know the answer any more.

the final curveball is this https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/bikes/frames/specialized-stumpjumper-evo-carbon-275-frame-set-carbon-satin-carbon__329827
Mmmm new frame, comes with a shock... LOL... But that does then get proper messy as a plan.

Well a couple of the parts of the decision process kinda fell into place by themselves.

I had the Monarch RCT listed on Ebay, it came in at a £35 loss on the purchase price i paid. Funnily enough i was out using it yesterday as it was the only working shock i have currently for the G-160 and it was surprisingly OK, it was only on full take-off/jumps i got slushy noise, it's literally at the full extension of the shock you get it.... But while i was out riding for 3 hours yesterday, someone bought the shock... So keeping and fixing it has been removed from the discussion.

So i've now got the Monarch R booked in with Sprung Suspension on Friday to see if they can repair it.
The RC3+ arrives today, which is brand new from Tredz and will be the shock that stays in the bike... if the Monarch R gets fixed, it'll stay in the spares box.

someone bought the shock… So keeping and fixing it has been removed from the discussion.

I take it they know it has a squelchy noise?

I know you've all gone a bit quiet on this thread... but...

My brand new RC3+ arrived from Tredz, fitted into the bike..

First ride, within 50m it had squat issues. Sag was set to 35% before the ride, pressures in both chambers equalised, So took it for a few kerb jumps as a test.... within 50m it was stuck down. When you jump off the bike it return only to about the 25% sag marker.. then a few mins later it creeps up and up and then eventually reaches full extension.

So i'm chatting with a mate and he says "are you sure it's not something on your frame, misaligned slightly causing this issue...My answer was no, i know this frame REALLY well and i'm happy everything is correct... But no harm to check of course. So all the rear contact points were stripped, checked, checked again and i then grabbed the Sworks from the other side of the garage. Took the shock out of it and put my shock into it, it's a faff as all the spacers/bushings are different on both bikes, but it's not exactly complex.
Once that was done i re-pressured it and took that out too, sadly it's the same... which means indeed it's a failed shock.

What's the chance of that though, got to be pretty low... First ride, first try... dead... WTF.

Spoke to Tredz and they're collecting the shock tomorrow. But as to what i do now.... I don't know.

Rang TFTuned and we talked through the options... Which basically was "Monarch RC3+" LOL... The exact same shock i've taken off.... more than once now. I tried to persuade her into both the DB IL Air and Coil and they think it won't fit...

So where does that leave me now... well, god only knows.

I'm honestly sitting here tempted to buy a Bird Aether7 and swap all the bits over onto the Bird frame. I've got a spare shock for my lads bike which will fit the Bird frame, the only thing i'd need to do for warranty reasons is get my Yari dropped from 160mm to 150mm or 140mm. Not sure yet just how easy/hard that is. But realistically it can't be the trickiest job in the world.
I can book a Demo over at Swinley next Saturday for £20 on an Aether7. Me and the lad have time booked at Summit jump area so would be ideal to test one. That said, i'm tempted to just say sod it and get it done today on Birds website lol.

I take it they know it has a squelchy noise?

That's correct yet. It was advertised truthfully stating it makes a noise.
"Does have a slight squish noise at start of travel but this does in no way affect it's function"

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274787578261

But it's nice you seem to make the assumption i'd not been honest 🙂

Just throwing this out there, not trying to influence your decision at all :D. Forks set at 150mm.

[img] [/img]

First ride on my new Aether 9 was impressive 😉

[url= https://i.postimg.cc/1XCfGSzd/PXL-20210509-110054002.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/1XCfGSzd/PXL-20210509-110054002.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://postimages.org/ ]free image sharing[/url]

Changing an air shaft on the Yari is very easy. If you've ever refreshed the oil in the lowers, it's one extra c-clip and a bit of grease.

Hey Weeksy,

It was the Coil IL you were asking about this am and that we advised you against for the reasons discussed. You also had already had a long chat with Greg previously re. the Air IL and issues re. clearance/ fitment on the yoke etc. We still have the Air IL that he prepped for you good to go - but you will need to run through the clearance/ orientation checks that he talked you through before riding it. Fine to return if it doesn't clear. Otherwise as discussed we can source your another Monarch Plus that you will know will go straight on.

Or maybe you just need one of those up there ^^^^^ from the lovely people at Bird 😉

Cheers, Ruth @TFT

Hi TFT, yep it was me this morning.

In honesty i'm a bit bloody lost as to what route to take at the moment. Obviously i can get a replacement Monarch + from Tredz, but reallly, this is the 2nd i've had fail and this one didn't even last 100m. So i don't want to take the chance on it.

The DB IL Air is clearly a great choice.... if it fits... and that's the issue.. I don't want to get it, mark it, then have you say "sorry, that's not as new, can't accept it back". That's not a slight on you by the way, just the luck i'm having with this at the moment.

I do wonder how the Aether7 will ride in terms of me getting down stuff, i'm slightly worried it'll feel compromised, however it shouldn't as it's a more slack geometry than both the T-130 and the G-160. The question is, does the G-160 feel better at the tricky stuff because of the head angle/geometry or because of the travel. The odds are it's the geometry i'd think. Which implies to me that the Bird will be great. Obviously all the bits from the current G-160 will swap straight over.

I've not done anything on the fork lowers, i think i'd have to take my forks to my friendly bloke at Rotec Cycles to do them for me.... unless i can persuade the lads at Bird to if i buy their frame and collect it LOL. They've got pink Aethers in, which is lairy enough for me to like 🙂 I've also got a rear shock in spares and confirmed with Ben at Bird will fit and work in the frame... so it'd just be a question of putting it together and rebleeding the brake as it's in the frame on the G-160. I'd also need a seatpost shim from 30.9>31.6 but that's pretty simple as we all know.

Feel like I'm repeating myself but the Birds just work. Yokes really just create another issue, there is no need for them- more tolerances to be out and the excessive wear is a common theme. Bird are ace to deal with and its not going to be the bike that holds you back.

Sounds like TFT are doing all they can to help as usual- but I can understand the worry on fitment compatability.

Feel like I’m repeating myself

Apologies for making you feel like that.. I'm happy to throw money at problems and solutions, but i do like to think i've given things thought and discussions before jumping feet first into things 🙂

The biggest issue has been that i do love the G-160 as a bike to ride... but i could also argue that the T-130 was/is the better bike for my needs.

Haha sorry, that wasn't aimed at you- just the second time (on seperate threads) I've praised Bird bikes.

Don't worry about what should be a better match- the weight etc on 130 vs 160mm frames is so minimal in a lot of cases, if you have fun on a bike that's the important thing. Bikes like the Aether and perhaps the T130 to some degree are pretty versatile as plenty of options when it comes to component choice etc.