Surely there must be 1 meduim in the country?
Spa Cycles?
I've tried that mate, Ive literally been on every site that google has to offer and no one has one. Unless I'm just not finding them?? I'm wondering if theres a little bike shop somewhere that has one thats why I'm appelaing to the forum. I was even gonna up my budget and get a Fargo but I can only find then in Red. I just need a bike!
All these claim to be in stock:
29" full bike:
https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/surly-karate-monkey-29er-13302-p.asp
https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/surly-karate-monkey-29-20096-p.asp
29" frameset:
https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/mountain-bike-frames-c48/karate-monkey-frameset-p23794
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s143p4240/SURLY-Karate-Monkey-Frame-and-Forks
27.5"+ full bike:
https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/surly-karate-monkey-275-15519-p.asp
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m1b0s226p4320/SURLY-Karate-Monkey-27-5%2B
27.5"+ frameset:
https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/surly-karate-monkey-275-frameset-11651-p.asp
https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/mountain-bike-frames-c48/karate-monkey-27-5-frameset-p17157
Also try phoning:
https://www.keeppedalling.co.uk/bikes/surly-bikes/karate-monkey/
All sold out just not updating the websites
have you tried contacting the fantastic keep pedalling in Manchester and all the Surly stockists listed on Surly’s website?
https://surlybikes.com/where_to_buy
Have you checked the stock levels on Ison distribution website?
Bike24 say they have KM frame and forks in Tangerine £630 or Lime in M from £720.
https://www.bike24.com/search?searchTerm=surly+karate+monkey
I can buy a frame and forks from Bikemonger. I’m currently furloughed so have time on my hands but the question is do I have the skills to build up a bike! The biggest job I’ve ever undertaken is fitting brake new brake callipers and levers. Also will it be possible to build a decent spec bike for the same money or will it end up costing me twice as much as off the peg?
Considering how over priced the full build are you can probably build one to a decent spec. Just shop around for parts and look for used bargains.
Usually if you build it from choice parts, with care, correct torques, greased you'll have something better built from better parts, that is better for you and needs less maintenance for the same for less money that comes apart again easily in the future. Especially with Salsa and Surly there is a lot of price increase with import and VAT. In the USA they're better value. The Salsa's and Surly's are usually specced down, no 10 tooth cog for example. you can do better building it up yourself for where your ride.
Swapping for Hope headset and BB, Shimano brakes (4 pot front two pot rear), quality rotors, preferred bars etc. You don't have the suspension forks to find cheap, just carefully pick your wheels. Ideally Hope/ Dt350 on your choice of rim that fits your preferred tyre tubeless easily, stick to 32h hubs and DB spokes from a good wheel builder. If you built it, you can quickly rebuild it or swap something out. It's not difficult, and doesn't need that many tools. I only use shops to press the headset in: £10 locally.
@milfordvet thanks for the advice. I’ve just taken the plunge and ordered a frame and forks from the bikemonger. I’ve got most of the tools I need, loads of time on my hands and a fridge full of beer! What could go wrong
Mine has hope tech enduro wheels.
But most of the rest I already had lying around.
Had it almost 2 years and it gets about 50/50 use vs my ebike.
I’ve used it with big apple tyres (great)
Surly knards 29x3.0 (good)
Knard front and rock razor 2.35 rear (best)
Fitted with a 27.2 thomson post (with USE shim) and B17 ti saddle for a comfy ride, short stem and carbon bars, hope headset.
I use a standard (non boost) slx chainset, it’s a triple with the big ring removed, spaced over to the right with an extra spacer.
Very versatile bike, I would buy another.
Edit: got mine from the bikemonger too, great shop.
Build thread 👍🏼
Good for you buying the frameset! Oh the joy as you loft the trophy from the box. Behold world...the Karate Monkey! What colour?
1. If you buy a Hope headset for the stainless (no rust) bearings, get them to centre the front 'Hope' on the head tube. Pre grease the head tube so you know it was done.
2. Buy a tube of that blue grease Hope uses: Mobil xhp222
3. If your going to use a Hope bottom bracket, for the stainless bearings, I'd go with a Shimano chainset so that it fits without an adapter. Also it uses a standard bottom bracket tool not the newer tool standards. Also it avoids the Sram torque which is high and needs a big ass torque wrench to do properly, which you might not own, rather than Shimano's just nip it up method of preload. I have both and both work perfectly, just saying. I'd also pick a drivetrain and use it throughout Shimano cassette, chain, derailleur, shifter and chainset to it all works as well as it can. Saying that the Sram 1x11 seems amazeballs on my Swift and shifting's just a mouse click. Don't go 1x if you need the gears. Its your bike and needs to suit your riding, your hills, your weight, your fitness.
4. If you might put a longer suspension fork on it one day, leave a bit more on the front brake line. Same if you have to raise the stem or fit higher rise bars for more stack. Know the front AC measurement and the correct fork travel in case you see a decent suspension fork in the sale that fits. 10 years later, standards will be different and they won't be available if you want a softer front end.
5. Get headset spacers from PX, seem cheapest. Make sure you know what brake mounts are to what on the brake callipers mounts so your ready for doing that with the right adapters. Its worth buying brakes with the adjustable line entry angle banjo like you get on XT so the line run is nice. Don't cut them fork steerer until after riding it a while so you know your good if possible. Might need more spacers above the stem temporarily until your set.
6. Buy a decent set of Allen keys like from WERA. Use a torque wrench with the bits about £30. A small bottle of blue loctite for the brake rotor bolts. Clean the rotors with a can of brake cleaner and the pads too.
7. Unless you know your geometry you might want to stick the seat post and stem that you have in the box or another bike, before spending a lot on ones from the likes of Thomson etc, in case its not right. Spend time adjusting the cockpit after building it to get your longitudinal position right and the bars right.
8. If you buy a front derailleur, carefully check your getting the right one for the frame and cable routing, there's quite a lot of variables.
9. Its tempting to assume you need a 10 cog with 1x, but unless you ride down hill pretty fast, you might not use it much and it can save cost and open up more wheel sets if your not looking for an XD freehub etc. So you will have to think a bit about gearing as it interplays with your wheel/ hub choice. If you not sure, actually stop and look and write down what gear you go up your steepest hill on and when you stop pedalling and tuck on your fastest descent. It will indicate the actual gear range you're using. Buy a few powerlinks if buy a Sram chain or the pins if Shimano when you get it.
10. If your buying a standard seat post, the Shimano Pro series are actually very good with a single bolt that allows you to adjust seat angle really easy. Its patented and I like it a lot. There only £25 or so. Thomson are nice though and don't mark. Its good to vent a steel frame now and again. take the seat post out and turn it upside down in case any water is in there. Seatposts with an open hole at the top probably improve ventilation but let water and moisture in...make sure you know if you need inline or layback for your position.
11. You might be a SRAM or SHIMANO guy, I was a Shimano XT guy for several decades, but having recently gone 1x11 Sram with an oval X SYNC2 32 Sram chainring and 10-42 with X1 zero loss shifter, I have to say its been amazing: shifts on the push not the return of the lever. Gear changes are a mouse click and have been so for a year now. Shifting will go off after a few months with cable stretch then you should be good. People seem to get trouble with 12 speed a bit more it seems. These 11/12 speed detailers need the jockey wheels working well, so Mucoff dry lube the jockey wheel bearings periodically for speed and durability.
12. Carefully research your preferred tyre/ rim will blow up easily tubeless if thats your bag before you buy them. Some rims are a bit bigger, some tyres a bit smaller to make the seal and you don't want both or none basically.
13. Buy a few clear patches to avoid cable rub on the paint. I run 2 pot XT brakes front and rear, but now I'd look at 4 pot front and two pot rear I think. 4 pot rear as well if the whole rig is going to be weighty with your weight. Bike stand is a nice luxury especially with the gears. Anyway you probably know all this and there are people on here far more knowledgeable than I. Have fun building it up. Treat yourself to special bits that you want. Please yourself and you'll enjoy it all the more.
Good call. I much prefer to build bike up myself. As others have said you can get a better bike for less money and the satisfaction of doing it yourself. You tube is a great resource for any bits your unsure of how to do.
I’m after a surly myself and live in North Yorkshire where we have at least 2 surly dealers that i know of but nothing in stock. Was hoping to get an ice cream truck or a Wednesday as i fancy building up a fat bike for winter. 🙂
Self builds are easier than you might think. I'd only ever adjusted rim brakes when I built an old Raleigh from a frame set, a bunch of spares and a laptop for Youtube tutorials. Probably took around 4 hours/full afternoon, but I was enjoying myself so much, I didn't notice the time at all.
Since then, I've fully stripped and rebuilt a CAADX, Genesis Longitude and built my current Big Bro from a frame set
I can pretty much guarantee, the first time someone says "Nice bike", you'll reply "I built it myself"
Obviously, build pics are required 😀
Edit: As mentioned above, a bike stand is a massive help. Put the seat post in, clamp it in the stand and build from there. Aldi/Lidl stands @£20/£25 are perfectly suitable for the job. Also, you might want some rust prevention spray for the frame internals if it isn't already treated
brilliant! wasn't til I had my last bike that would say it was built at home - all bar eccentric bottom bracket and headset. Very satisfying - just takes time.