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[Closed] Do hope service their own brakes?

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I've got a pair of C2's with the pro levers,but the front is in dire need of a complete strip,clean,new seals,fluid etc and the rear may as well be serviced at the same time
I've just bought a couple of the seal kits for the callipers and was intending to either service them myself or more likely get the LBS to do it for me.
I wondered if hope service their own brakes or do they do it only when theres a warranty issue.
Although i trust the bike shop to to a good job,nothing would compare to the manufacturers service.
As to a doinging it myself,i did have another front i tried to service but in the end it had to go to the LBS as the piston mounts needed re-threaded and i dont have those sort of tools.so may be for the best if a company does it for me
but do hope


 
Posted : 26/09/2009 3:01 pm
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Do hope service their own brakes?

Yes


 
Posted : 26/09/2009 3:04 pm
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Thank's Si
😀
Thats saves me from getting embassesd by sending them a rather pathetic begging letter 😆


 
Posted : 26/09/2009 3:13 pm
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They do, but they are trying to move towards Hopetech approved shops for this kind of thing.


 
Posted : 26/09/2009 10:30 pm
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Hope = first rate service bang on if you ask me. I will in the next few days be dropping my brake off with them. An most likely be picking it up again the next day!


 
Posted : 26/09/2009 11:05 pm
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This is good news
I googled the question and got a few hits for dealers with this sign,stating full service inc replacement of everything including the pistons.
I paid £30 for each brake and the cost of this service is £45 per brake,so &75 for a nice brake like the C2 put back into fully working order,is still cheaper then the set i bought when they first came out
I had those 8yrs and they only needed the fluid changed once and worked perfectly when i sold them on
I wish to this day i'd kept them 🙁


 
Posted : 27/09/2009 12:00 am
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Ive just got a reply from hope and they are saying they dont service the older C2,and recommend i use my LBS.They also said that all the spares are still available,so at least thats one good thing


 
Posted : 28/09/2009 1:23 pm
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it's a fairly easy (if a bit messy) job to DIY it.


 
Posted : 28/09/2009 1:53 pm
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another vote for DIY. Plus, if you're a bit of a fettler or know someone who is, then it's possible to convert them to an open system without too much bother.


 
Posted : 28/09/2009 2:08 pm
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Im confident i could easily strip clean,add new seals then reassemble.
Im quite a practical type of guy,and work as a cabinetmaker,i suppose most of us here will be quite practical,seeing as we build our own bikes and wheels,and if the worst happens i can always drop a bag of bits into the LBS and get them to sort it

Any corrections to the following as im only really guessing as to how you do it
I think its a matter of pumping fluid through the system using the lever.
*I think* with the bleed nipple open...pump the lever in and hold it...close the nipple...release the lever..open the nipple...depress lever and hold...close nipple...release the lever etc etc constantly filling the reservoir as you go making sure the level is always about 3/4,till youre sure theres no air left in there,
Then fill the reservoir to the very top and screw on the top,then close the bleed nipple.
Or do i close the nipple first,then fill to the top and screw the cap on,wiping up the fluid that gets pushed out.
its this bit im very unsure of.
Does this sound right to anybody 😕
And do i jam something between the pads to stop them moving 😕 while im pumping fluid through the system.
I read the manual but can find little in it thats that helpful and theres scant info on servicing my model
Unless anyone has some links i can look at
Thanks again


 
Posted : 29/09/2009 3:28 am
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There's a useful video on brake bleeding on the Hope site,here http://www.hopegb.com/page_mep_force_33.html.
Ian


 
Posted : 29/09/2009 5:56 am
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Cable tie a pound coin between the pads to stop them moving if not bleeding them on the bike.


 
Posted : 29/09/2009 6:14 am
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Sounds as if you've got the idea of bleeding, worth remembering with the C2 that the pistons self retract, so unless you wedge them fully apart when bleeding you'll never get the solid lever you're looking for despite having no air left in the system.I guess you're also aware that the pistons need to be unscrewed rather than popped out under pressure, the proper tool makes this much easier.


 
Posted : 29/09/2009 7:37 am
 Davy
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Take the pads out before you bleed it, because no matter how careful you are, you will always manage to get some oil on the pads. Put something solid in their place inbetween the pistons.


 
Posted : 29/09/2009 8:47 am
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In my experience, C2s are

1. easy to take apart and re-assemble
2. easy to bleed

Seals and parts available here if needed:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=566

So, in summary: give it ago yourself!


 
Posted : 29/09/2009 9:35 am