having looked at the ape parts that trouble sent,
Eh ????
Heatsinking a sort of rule of thumb has been 1 square inch of surface area per watt of power going in
as long as there is a good thermal contact from the led angle bit and the case either drilled and tapped or bolts and nuts .
and an airflow is present a case of about 50 mm is fine .
Though on hi in still air it will heat up .
Cree rates the leds to 150 degrees C and as long as a good thermal path is present the leds will be about 30 degrees hotter than the case near the leds .
too hot to touch is about 70/80 degrees meaning the leds are 120 .
thing with leds is the cooler they are the more lumens come out of the front .
Make the case too small and it becomes more difficult to build too .
£12 for that bracket on Wiggle 😯 God help us all!
[i]£12 for that bracket on Wiggle God help us all![/i]
Yeah, I know, I was just [i]brain storming[/i] on a solution for the mount.
There seems to be quite a few making this light now, and I'd hate to see you all thwarted for not getting a feasible mount.
Just trying to help.
😉
Thanks Lumi you sparked an idea that is very Eco warrier .
I use the botton half of the electron mount for my Liberators
and chuck away the top half now look at the pics .
I ran into the garage and in 2 minutes had a Lupine style mount sorted .
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The postage is going to cost me a fortune but will chuck in a half mount
as well for free .
You will have to find your own Oring though
I can see a 'what 'O' ring' thread coming along very soon 😆
Do I use a Viton,Nitrile,PTFE,Silicone, EPDM or Neoprene? Just can't make my mind up? Standard black or colour match my frame? 
lol @ lipseal
That bracket looks heaps better than the Lumicycle job sent with my hid lamp (sure they must have upgraded that by now?)
I'm posting the second batch of driver kits at the moment and they are now all taken until I can locate an alternative source of switches.
A few people haven't included their address and unfortunately Paypal doesn't let me access this for gift payments so I've emailed them - please check your inbox!
I can still supply all the other parts of the kit except the switch so anyone who hasn't got their order in yet can still get most of their stuff. Unfortunately, the switches are now on backorder until December. The only immediate alternative I can spot would be to use the double-pole version of the switch. If I can't find anything else and there is call for more kits then I'll order some of those in.
hows about in Mcgyver form a bit of old innertube
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as the light head weighs 99 grams inc innertube
and grips like a good un
Have sent address to trout and bct
Forgot to mention butyl 🙄 😆 Notice that there no boot over the switch Mr trout?
Yes I know didnt have one to hand but the back of the switch is silly coned well so no water can get in the case .
couldnt make a boot from the innertube 😥
These any good from [url= http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2341 ][b]maplin[/b][/url] BCT?
Smudge, The drawing on the Maplin site is a bit useless but I suspect they aren't suitable. The boots I have are M6 thread, most switches seem to be 1/4 UNF (or UNC? can't remember for sure, but certainly 1/4").
Made a slight boob ordering the wrong hammond case from Maplins, even after Trouties case post..Ordered one with solid end caps, which is fine for the switch end but bloody stupid for the LED end..doh!
Anyone want to swap one??
Trout.
Hey !, what a team. That mount idea looks excellent. Even better that you're using [i]spare[/i] parts.
I reckon thats got to be the way to go.
Good work.
😉
EDIT: I'd go with the piece of inner tube for an O'ring.
Rubber O'rings are prohibatively expensive when bought in small numbers. ime.
I planned to bolt a piece of Alu tube to the bottom of the box and use a Deal Extreme Velcro torch holder.
The problem with the DX Velcro torch holders is they waggle around when the going gets rough, and you get a strange strobe effect on the trail (work fine on the helmet).
I have a Bastid light with the rubber O-ring style handlebar mount and it doesn't hold the light secure either, I might try a bit of Innertube.
I guess if you used a longer piece of alloy tube and two (in-line) velcro mounts then that should hold it pretty tight.
doh! sorry troutie. predictive text messing about.
nockmeister - Member
Made a slight boob ordering the wrong hammond case from Maplins, even after Trouties case post..Ordered one with solid end caps, which is fine for the switch end but bloody stupid for the LED end..doh!
Anyone want to swap one??
i think they all come with solid ends hence why trout uses lexan cut to shape in the destructions on page 1 or 2. I think he is sending out some lexan with hte kits but i cant remember.
No there are two types one with black plastic ends the ones we should be using have metal ends with the plastic already cut out.
cunning. no way of differentiating this on the website though!
That's true VH you just have to inquire, Ive got the 80X54x23 part number 1455C801 HTH
Guys there is a way to tell off the Maplin numbers, the numbers below are for the same sized box, with different finishes/plates
1455C801 = two piece blanking plate
1455C802 = one piece blanking plate
1455C802BK = Black, one piece blanking plate
Appreciate if someone would swap one end out with me, [b]there is no difference to the finish of the light!![/b] You could argue that the solid blanking plate is less likely to leak!!
Just cut a hole in the blank
I've just seen that with Top Cashback you can get 4-5% cashback from RapidOnline.
I have been using TCB for a couple of years and have a time limited joining offer on my account where new people who sign up will get £2.50 joining bonus after they have accumulated £5 of cashback.
Its free to join and you don't pay to use the service (unlike Quidco who take the first £5 of any cashback).
Chainreactioncycles & Wiggle also offer 4% cashback.
FWIW this signup bonus expires on 12th October, but its still worth joining anyway as every little helps.
http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/Jazid
Well Spotted, I'll have to be taking advantage of that as I generally spend a few hundred quid with Rapid monthly.
I only hope I have more success with Rapid on TCB than with my last two or three transactions as they have all failed to pay out...
Just recieved my little box of goodies from BCTech (thx) now to try and avoid stuffing up the assembly phase!
Got my box also, let the games begin 8)
Can I be the first to wire the driver the wrong way?
TCB have been fantastic - I have only ever had one transaction not track, and that was because I had AdBlock Plus for Firefox turned on which stopped the tracking cookie being saved to my PC (my fault).
Dumb ass question but does the driver need a heat sink?
PS BCT just double check the resistors as I've got a 50K one? brown red black(might be blue) blue yellow
Here is a virtual delivery cos I have no leds yet Parcel force has them somewhere .
this is what will be in the package from the Trout
of course there will be 2 leds too
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yes the driver will benefit from being cooled and that is what the small bit of Ali is for .
Just received my little package from BCT. Cheers BCT your a star!
Cant wait for the stuff from troutie now!
I also received my parcel from BCT today. Nice little package I have now waiting to go together.
Thanks all your help BCT
It's late, it's Friday
Which one 😉
1455C801 = two piece blanking plate
1455C802 = one piece blanking plate
1455C802BK = Black, one piece blanking plate
Has anybody made a wiring schematic for this yet?
There was a wiring schematic on one of the previous posts, I think it was a link to some photos on Flikr.
Jazid - the be fair, my problems with TCB seem to be mainly down to retailers not TCB themselves. However, they seem fairly toothless in resolving problems were the retailer decides they don't want to pay up.
Lipseal - you have mail.
sv - you'd better not! The only way to provide reverse polarity protection on the drivers would be to add a blocking diode which would gobble up another half a volt or so of your precious battery life.
This looks like a great little project, looks like I've arrived at the bar after last orders though!
Trout, is there any chance you'll be putting in another order to cutters in the near future or would you be able to post part nos. up so I could order the leds and reflectors myself?
BlackCatTech - TopCashBack so far have been [url= http://www.topcashback.co.uk/Blog/ ]very different[/url]!
We have therefore identified marketing budget which we can use in this instance, to make sure that none of our members lose out as a result of this affiliate network going into administration. In other words, where due you can expect your affected transactions to proceed through to Payable status as normal
I've just had the £18.75 through from the NationalTrust that has been on hold for ages and ii is now clear that it provided through the affliate DGM. I am so glad I moved away from cashbackkings and quidco.
As I said, if you use my [url= http://www.TopCashBack.co.uk/ref/Jazid ] link[/url] when signing up you'll get a £2.50 bonus.
got my BCT stuff too - thanks. gets really interesting now!
Cheers BCT all sorted now 😀
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Chinochio
I do have some extra on the order and of course want a few for myself
so will update when I have had a count up .
package status is - sorted in Hub as at 22.00 last night .
so looking like monday before I get them .
Address status
Vinnyeh
Wildrness
your addresses are required
Much appreciated, thank you Trout.
BCT thanks and also to Troutie for the wiring diagram! Soldering iron awaits 😉
...got my driver today, thanks BCT.
I've opted for the 3way switch route; I'd like to 'fashion' a thumb operated back-lit switch mounted ergonomically in Sugru (Trouties idea).
Does such a switch exist that would give on off dim (resistor in series on this line)...don't want a toggle version, I think the lupine lamps have this type of button switch?
On that note, have you guys seen the new Lupine PIKO? Nice unit.
Oh, can anyone confirm if the Lumicycle HID Li-on battery pack jack is centre neutral...I'm sure it is but just wanted to confirm.
Cheers.
A push-button switch would have to be latching to work with my (very basic!) driver. I don't know of any three-position push buttons. Most drivers which use push buttons have a microcontroller on board which registers the button presses and changes the operating mode as a result.
This would be a nicer solution but would about double the price of the driver and increase the size also.
Forgot to mention that two latching push buttons could be used, one for power and one for full / dim mode.
Not sure about sealed push buttons but if you look on Rapid they have toggle switches you can buy weatherproof covers for.
Thanks guys, will re-think it all 🙂
I have latching versions of the switch Trout and I like to use on our lights.
They have a built-in LED too.
Only issue could be current across the contacts.
BCT. Is the switch on its own low current circuit ?, or are you just interupting the battery cables ?.
Either way, contact rating for the latching apem switches I have is ~50ma, IIRC.
Potentially a daft question, but looking at some of the switch ratings I notice 220-240 volts. Do I take it that they can handle up to 240, but would alow anything up to that to pass through...they are not fitted with bandwidth type resistors are they??
I take it the switch takes power from the connection to illuminate?
Thanks Luminous,
The 'fried' driver that came with troutie little fickir (mini unit) had obvious switch terminals...which I kind of wish I'd gone for now. That said, the BCT driver is half the size!
From BCT wiring sketch I can have a switch(3way)with restistor on the low circuit loop, or a 2way that gives on/of without a dim option.
Cell lines go direct to terminals on the board.
Cheers.
Essentially, I'd like to have an illuminated switch on my index finger to activate using my thumb.....because I'm a geek before you ask 😆
LT.
I don't know enough about the BCT driver to issue a ruling.
All I know is that I've a few IP67 rated latching switches with in built LED.
Also, were you using a Taskled driver, then having an illuminated switch wouldn't be an issue, I could sort that easily.
Good luck.
😉
Becoming damn popular these lights now doing a high vis commuting
helmet light for a mate .
with built in back light
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Trout what did you use to insulate the heat sink from the terminals on the driver, as it must get hot and don't want to use something that might go on fire or melt.
Would it be secure enough to use thermal tape instead of screws/bolts to attach the led's to the heatsink?
Was going to glue it on, haven't noticed any holes to use a nut & bolt. Thermal tape may come lose if it's bouncing round?
Lipseal- if you look at the photos on page two of this thread, trout has used some screws to attach the led stars to the heatsink. Glue sounds like it may be a good idea and possibly stronger than tape. Can you get thermal transfer type glue?
trout would it be possible to build a unit that had a front and and rear light - would be ideal for helmet mounting?
steelfan thought you mention the heat sink. Yeah you can get thermal glue on eBay there's a link on here somewhere.
Gary that is what this one is going to be .
My Mate is always losing his tail lights so we figured with a combined unit fixed to his lid he would be safe with both lights .
and with it being high up and very bright with a 180 degree beam very noticable.
it will of course be switch offable as off road you would not want to follow it.
Lipseal .
there will be a small piece of flat ali in the kit which glues to the driver but not touching the contacts so leaving them isolated from the case
I have never used thermal tape so dont know how good it is .
but dont forget the reflector is also glued to the led board and you dont want anything moving .
holes and screws with thermal paste is the most eficient you can use small self tappers bolt and nuts or dril and tap the angle .
Copper slip is a good thermal paste not quite as good as the arctic silver but good enough for this job .
thermal epoxy glue is next in line for eficiency
and thermal tape botton in the heat transfer league table.
all are better than nothing .
there should not any burning hot things in there
Oh and another tried and tested thermal paste is Zinc and castor oil cream for the old saddle rash .
Sounds ideal trout, how difficult is the build compared to just a front light?
The switch connection I've recommended takes advantage of the low current (about 50uA) shutdown mode. Power is permanently connected and the switch simply operates on the shutdown control. Therefore an illuminated switch wouldn't work.
There is no reason you couldn't use one switch to interrupt the power and another to switch the resistor in and out of the control pin for full / dim mode. The power switch could be illuminated if you can find the appropriate type - most neon ones are configures for mains operation. Some LED ones are configured for a specific voltage, others are more flexible.
dead easy and lookin at mine which has 2 Xpe red leds you only need 1 led . a lower power driver 350 ma from BCT and on off switch and a piece of clear something to cover the red led up with
plenty of room in the hammond box for all the extra bits .
will do a few pics tomorrow while I am finishing it off.
Troutie - Simple way to do this if you have enough battery voltage is to wire a single red in series with the two whites. Have a switch which shorts across it to turn it off and job sorted.
One thing - wouldn't the white light be pointed slightly downwards so the red would have to be at a slight angle in relation to it. If you don't have reds that can take the same current you could wire a few in parallel.
The reds only need 2 volts and can handle 700 ma but are fooooking bright at that plenty bright enough at 350 ma
Are you lensing the reds or relying on the wide beam spread to maximise visibility? There are a few alternatives that run at lower current and you could use 2 or 3 with a linear driver such at the Infineon BCR450 for a simple and cheap solution. Running three at 100mA wouldn't even need much of a heatsink.
Hi Luminous,
Forgive my late reply; I don't yet fully understand the wranglings of the LED world, so pls explain the Tasked driver thing?
Also, I don't have much room (I renovating trouts micro..see this thread http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/calling-troutie ) inside the box for extra drivers and stuff.
The BCT driver is about half the size of the one shown in Trouts' picures of the unit.
How much would your solution set me back, and would you explain it via diagram pls.
Thanks for your help.
Oh, before I go....do you happen to know if the Lumicycle HID Li-ion packs are fitted with a centre-neutral jack...I'm almost certain they are?
PS: Thanks BCT (if ur reading this) for ur wiring diagram..very clear thx.
Oh, just one more thing.
A big thanks from me to all the folks on this thread for being good-eggs & sharing the LED love 😆
Free floor space and chocolate swirl cake if ur ever up the Peak way.
LT
PS: If you can handle the twins that is? 😯
LT.
Yes, lumicycle are centre negative, So just be careful with your case as you ground everything out with the screws etc but the socket should you use one will be positive ground for the lumicycle battery.
Hope that makes sense?
Lovetubs
that old driver was a Taskled Nflex and no longer in production .
I doubt you will get a Bflex in as they are 25 mm in diameter and have
components on both sides .
you would be best to stick with the bct and a sub miniature switch
the reds have a piece of half round acrylic rod over them which gives out a horisontal oval beam spread so is visible from a huge angle .
they are what i had but have in the past used 3 or 5 mm red leds in similar lights .with a resistor tapped in to the Bflex led output .
Thanks guys,,,
Smudge, could I not circumnavigate the inverse polarity simply by soldering the power lead from the battery poss to neg, and visa versa??
ASIDE
I don't want to hijack this tread, but I found this and thought you'd all appreciate it... I really must post up picks of my 1st dual lamps..
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2006/12/how_to_make_the_ultimate_1.html
LT.
Yeah, I agree with Trout.
Stick with the original plan, and just go for the usual toggle switch. Keep it simple mate.
😉
Just thought I'd make it an even 400 posts 8)