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[Closed] CX Tyres

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[#2212622]

New to this CX thing and am approaching the day when I have al the bits to build up my new frame. Was thinking of a Racing Ralph/Rocket Ron combo. Are the CX versions as good as the MTB ones? Are there any other good, light, fast CX tyres out there that anyone can recommend?


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 11:10 am
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it's the middle of winter so get some mud tyres. Michelin mud2 will be your best bet; grippy, light and reasonably fast rolling.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 11:18 am
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OK thanks.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 1:10 pm
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Awful at this time of year, but CRC are selling Small Block Eights at a tenner each. I've bought two for early season next year and left them in the garage.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 1:22 pm
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Do you really want proper CX tyres? In which case, I would say Michelin Muds. They are not very puncture resistant though, and tarmac eats them up, so if you are out training I'd use something else. I just train on Landcruisers or the Ritchey Evaders which came with the bike.

I've not tried the Schwable cx tyres but I've seen a few race on them so they may well be good. I've a friend with some racing ralph tubulars and I'm dieing to know what they're like. They are certainly more robust than Duguasts!


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 2:58 pm
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This year I want to get a lot of training miles in on the bike, a combination of off and on road. The typical ride might be 10 miles or so tarmac and 30 plus off road - fire roads, easy singletrack, that sort of stuff. Next year I want to do some races before I'm too old 🙂 Oh yes, I'm Suffolk based so no nasty pointy rocks etc.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 3:08 pm
 Bazz
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Panaracer now do a cx version of their Fire xc pro, as an all rounder it could be pretty good, i'm a fan of the mtb version.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 3:22 pm
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40 miles on/off road at training pace in wintry conditions is tough work. I don't mind admiting it, but even 30 miles of CX training left me feeling lime I'd been worked over.
I'm slapping mudguards and Paves on mine for winter training.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 3:35 pm
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Personally, if you are training then I'd get Landcruisers. You won't puncture, and you can use them for the 3 peaks if you ever want to do that. Then, when you fancy racing you can get some Michelin Muds.

Landcruisers are dead cheap. less than 25 quid a pair from [url= http://shop.ebay.co.uk/daveheadoncycles/m.html?_nkw&_armrs=1&_from&_ipg=25 ]here[/url]


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 3:36 pm
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I tend to use the following;
Muddy - Kenda Kwicker
Fairly muddy/hardpack - Panaracer Crossblaster
Dry - Kenda Small Block 8's

The Small Block 8's mentioned above for £10 are a real bargain, well spotted s.m. They are much grippier than they look and surprisingly good in mud (unless really gloopy), very fast on tarmac, hardpack and grass. Would probably be ideal for the mixed terrain you described. At that price certainly worth a punt.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 3:42 pm
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They're a folding bead too, so a proper bargain. I'm thinking of getting an extra pair for when they wear out.

Does anyone have any experience of the Kenda Kross Supreme? I'm looking for something aggressive for racing and they look like they'll do the job. Certainly better than the Speed Kings I used yesterday. Skidspintastic.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 3:57 pm
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My Speed Kings didn't cope too well once the grassy sections were cut up. Though they're the only tyre I've ever used, time to try something else methinks.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 6:30 pm
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What traildog said. The weight in the tyres will get you fitter and they're bombproof and won't wear out so quickly on tarmac.
Or Cindercross


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 7:15 pm
 dobo
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i'm new to cx racing but raced on mich mud 2 at weekend and were fine on grassy stuff and been fine in wet leaves and runny mud.
Though they are called a mud tyre im sure they would be overwhelmed in muddier especially deep sticky mud conditions. good all rounders though
if i didnt have a mich jet i would probably get some small block 8 too.


 
Posted : 22/11/2010 8:00 pm
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Michalin Mud2s do clog in thick mud but they still manage to grip. The version 1 of the tread is supposed to be much better and many people get this built up onto something like FMB tubulars but all that is too much money unless you are taking it seriously.
I'm sure they can be improved, but I've not really found anything better yet. You have to be careful with them as well if the course is rocky. Without a spare bike, puncturing can cost a race.
I wouldn't train with them though, but I've said all that already.


 
Posted : 23/11/2010 11:04 am