Ride a Soul myself, tried 100mm, 120mm and 140mm all Fox Forks as well as an old Rev 130 u'turn.
Have to say my favourite was the 140mm for the Peaks and most trail centres, you just have to move your weight around more on the singletrack. Have a 120mm on at the moment while the 140mm is on another bike. If I could afford it I would definitely get an adjustable fork especially for a BEFE, 150mm to 120mm would be perfect.
running fox vanilla on mine for the last 3 years
excellent
cant be arsed with adjustable
repatriot - do you mean 150/120 dual position, or U-Turn?
Having run all manner of Revs, from top end black box team, race, to coil uturn sektors, dual air sektors, I can honestly say my coil Lyriks at 140 are bang on.
Was thinking about what Cy has planned for the next BFe update - I'm guessing the new 44mm headtube he's been putting on the 9er's - would make it nice to be able to run tapered forks.
I'd also like to see replaceable mech hangers like the Soul.
I reckon a u'turn because the dual 120/150 is really a setting for climbing, not a fully open setting. (I think?)
Gives you the option for dialling in the fork for the terrain. 150mm might be to much for flatter terrain!
I heard the next generation cotic soul and befe will have new 44mm headtube to future proof it.
My 140mm is a vanilla too, ace fork.
Interesting thread. Looking at exactly the same. Thanks to all, keep advice and experience coming please.
Nope, the 120/150 dual position is full open - with that in mind, does that make it ideal?
Or would I actually miss just hooning around at 140 all of the time, and not fiddling with anything?
built up and off for a ride....any comments welcome
http://catgreenhorse.pinkbike.com/album/bfe/
do not know how to post pics onto here directly.Sorry
seriously, its 20[b]12[/b]
so your fork travel should be 120mm, 110 will be far too twitchy and anyone considering 130+ obviously cant ride for toffee.
im certain, from reading on here, this applys to any cotic frame but i suspect that it is true for any manufacturer
Nice bike tricky dick,
Beauty of the befe is flexibility to run 100mm up to 160mm.
Obviously a 100mm fork is going to effect the type and style of riding your going to do as much as 160mm fork will do.
Being over biked or under biked is no fun, thats why getting a fork with some adjustability is a good idea for a trail bike like the befe.
I imagine getting the most out of a befe with a 160 fork, takes a lot of toffee!
Get a 44 micro switch - 150mm travel for the downs and 130 (ish) for the ups - light, plush as a plush thing, and a 3 year maintenance warrenty checkout our video on a Bfe with these - [url=
Right then, it's now built and with Fox 140 Kashima RLCs.... it feels perfect at 140, no way slack feeling, if anything it feels steep; there's nothing I couldn't climb on the BFe that I could climb on a 100mm race hardtail.
I have to say though, it's a proper hooligan - I've never ridden something that's so rewarding for being brutal with the front end.
Photos Rickon?
I agree they're rewarding. I love mine, can't see me wanting any other bike for a long time.
I love mine, 140mm Pike coils on it. It feels so much fun, when standing up it feels steep. With all this fashion of super slack head angles you can forget how much fun a quick handling front end is great fun when the terrain is flatter.
[img] 
[/img]
140mm Fox RLC Kashimas, Sram X0 mech and shifters, XT double, Crests on Hope Pro3s, Monkeylight bars, Hope Race X2 brakes, ESI grips.
Pretty damn light, and ridiculously fast and inspiring downhill. 140 feels perfect for all day riding.
After 2 weeks of trial and error I have removed the 160 Fox 36's Van I had in favour of the Pikes that I had left in the corner at build time.
I think a few of you were right about the Van being a little bit of overkill. The Pikes do give the bike a much nicer feel, it now climbs well and feels to have sharpened up the steering but it still goes down the hill like the clappers.
In terms of tyres I had tried the CST BFT 2.4" but have found them poor on punctures, 5 so far, maybe I've been unlucky but I had assumed these would have performed better than this. Also they had made the bike feel very sluggish has anyone else got any experience of these tyres?
Overall I like the bike very much.
Richard
Interesting I was eyeing up those tyres for mine, I have Super Tacky Swampthings on it at the moment and it still feels nimble.
XS BFe being delivered Friday to build up into an AM hardtail. Got some 130-150 Marzocchi 44 to plug into it. Tempted to leave them at 150 and just go for it, but since I'm used to a 100mm fork anyone reckon I would be better off adjusting down to 130 and running it like that for a while?
slainte ❓ rob
yes
I'd go solo air revs spaced to 120-130mm.
It's a hartail, you don't need short forks for good climbing, 140mm+ on a hardtail starts to feel wrong.
120-130mm seems like the sweet spot, just enough gain good control in the rough, not so much the geo goes weird and accelerates you over the bars when your front wheel gets gobbled by an unexpected hole on the way down.
not so much the geo goes weird and accelerates you over the bars when your front wheel gets gobbled by an unexpected hole on the way down.
I'd have thought a longer fork would make that less likely, not more.
I'd have thought a longer fork would make that less likely, not more.
A long fork will travel further, thus making the geo change even more. If you have a short fork on there the geo isnt going to change as much.
Not a Bfe but look what the TNT man brought me last Friday:
[IMG] 
[/IMG]
[IMG] 
[/IMG]
[IMG] 
[/IMG]
Fence, grass, fruit trees... yes yes yes all need sorting.
A long fork will travel further, thus making the geo change even more. If you have a short fork on there the geo isnt going to change as much.
Exactly, you have to make bigger adjustments to counteract the bigger change in COG, this combined with the fact that a lot of the time 150ishmm forked people never leave the ground, run loads of sag so they can get full travel, resulting in a divey fork.
But if the long travel fork was ran hard, keeping the axle to crown high, keeping the HA slack, this would prevent you diving over the bars.
It's not so much the suspension travel allowing these hardcore hardtails stability, it's the slack HAs the long travel forks bring with them. The forks need to be ran harder than maybe some are willing to to maintain the slack HA.
For example a 67* HA 100mm bike will dive less, and be more stable than a 150mm travel 67* HA bike.
bikebrechfa are running 150-130 micro switch and plenty of posts on here from owners happy with140 and 150 forks which is what I'm going with, 110-140 or 120-150.
davidtaylforth - Member
I'd have thought a longer fork would make that less likely, not more.
A long fork will travel further, thus making the geo change even more. If you have a short fork on there the geo isnt going to change as much.
Depends how it's set up. And even if your statement were true, a 150mm fork dropping 40mm is still less likely to tip you over the bars than a 120mm one dropping 20. Not to mention the effect of the slacker HA.
And even if your statement were true, a 150mm fork dropping 40mm is still less likely to tip you over the bars than a 120mm one dropping 20.
My statement is true 😆
But why would it only drop 40mm? Surely its setup incorrectly if it does. The whole point of having 150mm of travel is so you have 150mm of travel, not 40mm of travel.
For example a 67* HA 100mm bike will dive less, and be more stable than a 150mm travel 67* HA bike.
Yes but a BFe with bottomed out 150mm forks will have virtually the same HA as a BFe with bottomed out 100mm forks. And as we are talking about Bfe's the point being discussed in moot no matter how true it is.
Depends how it's set up. And even if your statement were true, a 150mm fork dropping 40mm is still less likely to tip you over the bars than a 120mm one dropping 20. Not to mention the effect of the slacker HA.
Using this example is perfect. Suppose your situation above, 120mm has gone through 20mm of travel, your 150mm has gone through 40mm of travel, you yourself have stated that there is a bigger change with a longer travel fork. With a larger change in travel on an impact, a larger shift in body weight is needed to counteract this shift that is tending to throw your weight forward.
Then you have the HA aspect, for arguments sake the 150mm sits at 67* static, the same frame will sit about 68* static with a 120mm fork. Using your scenerio, 150mm compresses 40mm, the resulting HA will be about 69*. Again with the 120mm fork, it compresses 20mm, the resultant HA will be about 69*, so dynamically the HAs will be the same, but the longer travel fork will have more tendency to compress making the sweet spot of balance shift further and more quickly.
Hopefully that's making sense?
Longer travel forks will give more traction, it's a balancing act between traction and handling (comfort too).
Will I DIE when I get mine and put 150rl's on it?
Probably, I've died 8 times with coil Lyriks on my BFe. 😯
revelation rct3 here. light and squidgy. the three position compression whatsit is most excellent. I run them long with plenty of sag.
Probably, I've died 8 times with coil Lyriks on my BFe.
only 1 life left then snakebite 😯
I'd go solo air revs spaced to 120-130mm
just like this then. (but on a BFe)
[url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/6618770011_d0963a8d67_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/17059060@N00/6618770011/ ]P1040284[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/17059060@N00/ ]eastham_david[/url], on Flickr
Based on how well my Soul rides at 140mm I'm sure the BFe would be equally great. If you're not prepared to put the work in during the tight and twisties you won't like it on sinuous singletrack but if you do then it'll rail that and batter through the fast rough stuff too.
You can set your forks up how you like - I run about 15% sag on mine (so firmer than most) and rarely use the last 10mm of travel. But the action is more linear than if I were using the full travel of a matching 10mm shorter fork and the head angle slightly slacker, both good for me. And there's the extra security of 10mm more absorption when things don't go to plan...
i dont understand why people say 160 forks arent good for 'tight twisty singletrack'
as long as your stem doesnt look like a crane you'll be reyt.
