Continuous cabling ...
 

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[Closed] Continuous cabling with stops on the frame

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Hi - I have a slot drop inbred and am going to run some gears on the back to save my knees for a bit:)

I want to run continuos cable but the bosses have stops on them - therefore what is the best course of action? I guess I could cable tie but that is a bit messy. How about drilling the end out the boss??

Ideas on a postcard or this forum


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 6:40 pm
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i needle filed mine out - took a while but less problematic than a drill chuck


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 6:44 pm
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my disc brake 'compatible' gen2 (pre swapdrop) inbred frame came with closed guides.
Seems insane given most people will run hydros and will not wish to bleed and rebuild a brake.

so i've had to use some stick on cable guides.
They're available from crc, or ebay. CRC turned out to be the cheapest if memory serves me correctly.

option two... drill..

or option three.. run some cables that have a seal tube between the stops like goodridge?


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 6:56 pm
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Just run continuous inner with split outer, its not rocket science, its even cleverer...


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 7:03 pm
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Rose do some natty Formula cable guides with an integrated cable tie. They look neat and aren't too expensive.


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 7:06 pm
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thanks guys lots of options:) sound advice!


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 7:26 pm
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I used black electrical tape on my Surly 1x1


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 7:46 pm
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gaffa tape, cable ties. big hammer?


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 7:48 pm
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[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28123 ]These?[/url]


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 8:17 pm
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[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31845 ]or these[/url]

Use these for an adjustable seat post cable, works well.


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 8:34 pm
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belugabob's suggestion looks nifty.

crikey - what do you mean? the inner is always going to be continuous and if you split the outer then it's not continuous, whats the point?


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 10:21 pm
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[img] [/img]

like this the the inner white sheath still covers the cable but fits in a frame with cable stops


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 10:24 pm
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Ah, got it now! Thanks.

Is that not quite a bit of faffing tho?


 
Posted : 22/09/2011 10:35 pm
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Did mine last week,much more winterproof now
[url= http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6194/6159883336_646a1c21d4_b.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6194/6159883336_646a1c21d4_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/rocketdog/6159883336/ ]dremel time[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/rocketdog/ ]rOcKeTdOgUk[/url], on Flickr


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 4:59 am
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The Dremel is your friend... continuous cables are essential for Scotchestershire... unless you love a winter of bad shifting...


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 6:32 am
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if i am doing this on my inbred 2nd gen which has cable guide along the down tube and the bottom of the stay - should i route it that way or not - i.e. is there a preferable way to route a continuous cable?


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 10:28 am
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tazzymtb - who makes these?


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 10:33 am
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Look up the Transfil waterpoofing kit for £2.99 from Wiggle.

Comes with some tube to cover the exposed bits of inner and some new outer ferrules to secure it.

Less weight than continuous outer too 😉


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 10:49 am
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andyl - is this a complete kit or does this just deal with the exposed part and I would need to get normal housing for the rest?


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 11:23 am
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Look it up!

For £3 do you think it is a complete set of gear cables? 😆

It is a waterproofing kit to use with a normal set gear cables. I used it with an XTR gear cable kit so works fine with SP41 outer.


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 11:38 am
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sweet sorry mate - i was being lazy (probably all the sun!) thanks for the help


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 12:01 pm
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Goodrich also do a continuous set much the same, but a complete set with cables, ferrules and outers, downside the un-sheathed bits are a pale blue colour so can look a bit naff.


 
Posted : 23/09/2011 12:07 pm