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I check mine from time to time by cycling the linkage with the shock out, it always feels fine - smooth, doesn't need forcing, and no play. Less frequently, I dismantle the linkage and put a finger on each individual bearing. Last time I did that, some would only turn the few degrees they usually move, a few barely turned at all, and paint had worn off parts of some pivot bolts. Hadn't notice any degradation in performance, and didn't notice any improvement after replacement either.
The latter way is obviously more faff, so I'm wondering if it's worth it, do most people even bother, or just wait until it becomes more obvious. If it turns the normal range (but not all the way round), and there's no play, does it make any difference whatsoever. Especially for the chainstay bearings on a Horst linkage which only move maybe 1-2 degrees anyway. I see bikes with as much as 160mm travel (Last Tarvo) now using flex stays instead of these.
I have a nice easy to maintain Orange 5 these days. Single pivot with just 2 nice big sensibly sized bearings. 😎.
When I had a Stumpjumper as the main FS bike, I learned the hard way that the horst link brgs in particular would be ****ed quote quickly and by the time its detectable without the partial strip down you describe, them little pissy brgs are totally foobarred and a nightmare to replace (as they just fall apart and leave the outer races in the blind housing and needing a dremel to remove.
So I'd defo recommend your approach to people. And at double the frequency you think should be necessary.
Interesting question, I have a similar experience.
I find that placing a finger directly on the bearing is the only way to feel light to moderate resistance. This requires opening the pivot, which isn't always so easy. For the main pivot of my Bird that requires removing the crank and chain device, which is a bit of a faff with a DUB crank. The internal routing through the chainstay also doesn't help, but there aren't any bearings in that part itself.
My initial experience was that every inspection, every 3month or so, would show one pivot place to have a problem. I have had better luck with stainless bearings.
Whilst light to moderate resistance at the bearing is very difficult to detect from the ride of the bike, sometimes something doesn't feel 'right'. A worn or binging bearing will also start to wear the pivot axle and other hardware, so it's better to find it early. A seriously corroded bearing can be a nightmare to remove, like @robertajobb says.
So my current practice is to split every pivot for a proper inspection every 2 or three months, or if something doesn't feel right. That faff means that I will carefully choose my next bike to be easier to inspect, and one with better sealing and hardware.
Whenever the shock comes off for an sir can service (about once a quarter)the wheel also come off, as well as hoses and cables if they might add resistance, then the frame turned 90°
This allows me to feel if things are smooth by moving sideways rather than up and down so there's no weight involved.
What I do like about my Ibis is that all the bearings are in the alu bits, not the carbon bits and all the kits are reasonably priced so neglect isn't going to kill the big boys.
Best system I ever had was the bushing with grease ports 9n the Turner. That worked a lot better 9n Horst link bikes than DW ones though.
Given the movement in the Horst link is so little, why isn't it more common to see a bushing there?
Off track slightly but, I had a bearing disintegrate on a 4 bar horst. I bought a blind bearing puller from Bearingpro tool company, pulled it out no problem. Emailed him the internal diameter of the outer race and he sent the correct puller. Safer than a dremel if anyone gets stuck with the same problem.
Mine are checked every 4-6 weeks on each bike... It's 20 mins work to check them... I've got spares for pretty much every bearing we own... (Although not checked the new PRivateer to see what bearings it has yet)
A blind bearing puller is safer and easier if you have one. Last time this happened to me many moons ago (wife's 2005 stumpjumper) I still used the Dremel and cut slots through the internal spacer between the double HL bearings. Idea being I had the option to drift it out next time. Of course, it never happened again.
I have a nice easy to maintain Orange 5 these days. Single pivot with just 2 nice big sensibly sized bearings. 😎.
The RAAW bikes are nice for this too, but more bearings. Main pivot are 52mm, all bearings with double external seals.
I find that placing a finger directly on the bearing is the only way to feel light to moderate resistance. This requires opening the pivot, which isn’t always so easy. For the main pivot of my Bird that requires removing the crank and chain device, which is a bit of a faff with a DUB crank. The internal routing through the chainstay also doesn’t help, but there aren’t any bearings in that part itself.
My Aether 9 is pretty good for access, with a 32T chainring just the chain and guide need removing, the hex key can then just about pass between the teeth to reach the main pivot bolt.
So my current practice is to split every pivot for a proper inspection every 2 or three months, or if something doesn’t feel right. That faff means that I will carefully choose my next bike to be easier to inspect, and one with better sealing and hardware.
Their new Aeris 9 does have seals on the bearings from what I read.
Best system I ever had was the bushing with grease ports 9n the Turner.
Some bikes e.g. Deviate Highlander have grease ports. Anyone know what specifically these grease ports grease? Are the bearings open on one side or something?
Given the movement in the Horst link is so little, why isn’t it more common to see a bushing there?
Good question.
I loved that with my old Orange Alpine, 2 big bearings and the guide on Orange’s website suggested tapping them out with a block of wood. Quick, cheap and easy to change.