[Closed] Cheapest place for Fox 36s.

That because that is how much they cost 😉

Seriously though, they are not something you will generally find for sale reduced unless they are old/ex demo models.

Are they worth buying over Pikes?
I never got on with my 2014 Pikes especially the lack of small bump sensitivity side of things..rammed full of tokens and low pressure means it ramps up but thetes no support..

Yeah, they are brutally expensive. I bought mine used and they're still the most expensive bike part I've ever bought. More expensive than my new pikes 🙄 But they are soooo purty.

(they're awesome forks, honestly, but value wise it's pretty much impossible to justify, it's like a Lyrik and a half. Or a Lyrik and an avy damper, or something. Or a Pike and a Calibre Dune!)

I was never a fan of either of my Pikes- they're competent enough, in fact they're pretty good, but once you've had brilliant forks (my old coil lyrik micos), frankly buying the new hype and discovering they're just pretty good is a total pisser. When I got my 29er Pikes I had lower expectations which they totally met, but I do appreciate the upgrade to the 36s. I don't care about the stiffness though, they all work for me.

Id definately prefer them, Although my current employment would make me biased, I have previously had, pikes, rebas, yari and lyriks on bikes I have used in the last year or so.

I would say the 36 is miles better than a pike because of the stiffness of the chassis as well as the damper, 34s are similar to a pike stiffness wise and have a very good damper (fit4 version).

29 or 27.5?

If 29, do yourself a favour, save 100/150 quid and get a set of RXF 34/36s and set them up like all the net users and Enduro mag set them up - as opposed to Dirt and Pinkbike. The dual chamber positive air system is about as best you can get when it comes to balancing support and sensitivity in an airspring.

Or wait for the coil model.

Got mine as part of bike so cost somewhat hidden. Would struggle to pay £1000+

Tom_W1987

Care to send a link to the Enduro setup please?

What Tom says, we are running Pikes, Lyrics and Ohlins 36s. The Ohlins feel alot better and are alot easier to set up for a light rider.

Tom_W1987

Care to send a link to the Enduro setup please?

This is what I have gleaned -

Basically fiddle around with the main chamber and secondary chamber settings until you get a good bit of midstroke support - the forks are more linear unless you put a lot of air into the secondary chamber - however linear doesn't mean a lack of midstroke support, so many people confuse the last third of travel as being midstroke support.... the damper can cope with the linearity supposedly though - so don't be scared to add a fair whack of low speed compression and a few clicks of high speed.

NSMB loved them, as did Enduro mag - MBUK raved about the 34s but two months later said very different things about the 36 model. Which I find odd.

They certainly feel supple to me in car park tests, a good bit more supple than my air pikes used to be.

EDIT: Like the Manitou IRT system on the Mattoc, which is very similar - some people get the system and others don't, so you get people who rave about them and people who love them. Do a bit of googling into both air systems as they are so similar.

http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Forks,33/hlins/RXF-34,16821#product-reviews/2602/expand

Midstroke support can be tuned independently of bottom out resistance, the progressiveness kicks in a lot later.

For example, this is the IRT spring system

[img] [/img]

As you can see, adding pressure to the main chamber increases support in the midstroke but increases bottom out resistance. However in that graph the IRT chamber has been kept at the same pressure, you could actually drop it, reduce the bottom out and make the fork more linear.

The graphs for the ohlins fork don't make it slow clear as to exactly where the secondary chamber kicks in though. That odd spike on the above graph is where the IRT chamber kicks in I think.

Try to get a go on a new Lyrik if you haven't already OP.

It might solve this problem for you.

Where as this is what happens when you add pressure to the IRT "Bottom out" chamber. It's not really just a bottom out chamber though.

[img] [/img]

Increasing the pressure in it also increases midstroke support but to a lesser extent, whilst not effecting the initial stroke so much.

Here's a good little resource on the Manitou system that might also give you an idea on how to tune the RXF

https://fotos.mtb-news.de/s/77631

Obviously the ohlins stuff is all irrelevant if you dont want a 29er fork

We were lucky to have a long chat with the service team at the EWS in Finale before we got the forks and he gave us some idea on how to set the forks up for Abigales bike. He also set her rear shock up for her, not to much different to how it was set up, but made a difference. Once we got the new bike we just dialed in the settings he recommended and are running them at that.
Didn't have as much time to chat with him as Abigale did but he certainly new his stuff.

We were lucky to have a long chat with the service team at the EWS in Finale before we got the forks and he gave us some idea on how to set the forks up for Abigales bike. He also set her rear shock up for her, not to much different to how it was set up, but made a difference. Once we got the new bike we just dialed in the settings he recommended and are running them at that.

What's the general trick? When you reduce the main chamber pressure add a little more second chamber pressure? Enduro mag were running the main chamber a fair bit softer for a heavier rider, than MBUK were who weren't as impressed by the fork.

If you want to spend less than 1k on a 27.5 fork though, just get a Lyrik.

He had a long chat with her about how she rode and what she wanted from her fork comparing it to what she did and didn't like about her Pikes. She had a quick ride on some he set up for her and then took it from there.
She only weighs eight and a half stone so the settings would be different for a heavier more agressive rider. I would think the process would be the same

RCZ have some cheap OEM (I assume) 36s at the moment if you are happy to take a punt not having an easy warranty.
Good deals might only be on the Talas at the moment though.

The best thing to do is to figure it out for yourself, I know everyone says it but once you understand what you want from the fork and what the adjustments do it will be simple

I had the same problem when I was building my patrol, with 2015 36 rc2, I tried copying people's set ups, but it wasn't until I started fiddling myself that I really set the fork up for my liking.

I set sag and rebound to where I liked it, then went from no lsc upto full and felt what it did then tweaked from there, 4 click at a time so you can fee a difference, then tweaked in 1-2 clicks either way, same with hsc, do one adjustment at a time.

I highly recomend you fiddle and work it out for yourself, then when you get a new fork you will not be at square 1 again

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/fox-36-float-27.5-160-fit4-3pos-performance-tapered-qr15-585153

Pretty cheap if you're after 650b and Fit4 and can live with being called "Kenny no-Kashima" by your mates.