[Closed] changing bearings - question content

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this help?[/url]

Do in need to remove the whole back end off or?

Well , thats' going to HAVE TO happen, yes, as you'll be taking out all the pivot bolts, and it's easier to have it in bits anyway.

Most of the bearings you'll be able to drift or press out using an appropriately sized socket. I vice is VERY handy used as a press, rather then hitting stuff with a hammer. You can press bearings in and out with a vice

The only tough ones will be the ones in the ends of the chainstays (The Horst link bearings) as they can't be knocked out as there's a flange between them. Really they need to be pulled out with a bearing puller, which is what it looks like is going to happen in the KaTec video above.

There are apparently ways of affecting this without spending lots of cash on bearing pullers, including, I believe, using one of those expanding hollow-wall fixing bolt thingies, but I've not seen it done......

Thank you for the advice. 8)

Just as a note, I did manage to knock out the horst link bearings with a hammer and screw driver, but it was not easy!

i found the larger bearings in the rocker plates trickier than the horst, they need to be removed in pairs or they twist due to the shape of the rocker plates.
I bought a bearing puller in the end, way less hassle

Cheers seano.

Sounds like the main difficulty is getting the buggars out as opposed to fitting the new ones in, which is the opposite of what i imagined 😯

same bearing is fairly tricky to replace due to back being on an angle.
threaded bar and assortment of washers old bearings does the trick but try drive them both in at same time to keep them square in the housing.

edit: the drop out bearings are not the only blind bearings in there as well, the smaller bearings in the rocker plates are also blind

Sounds like the main difficulty is getting the buggars out as opposed to fitting the new ones in

Exactomundo my friend!
If you have it all in bits it's really easy to press new bearings in.

Probably a similar issue as with my Hemlock but I had good success with the expanding bolt method. I did a bit of a guide on this thread...
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/sooooo-hemlock-owners-any-tips-to-shift-these-bearings
I've successfully used the method on the main pivot bearings and seatstay bearings since doing the rocker guide.
HTH

Nuke, that's ace, thank you! I'd heard it could be done but never seen it explained 🙂

No problem...owe you for the your rockshox guides I've used many times. 🙂

Can be a bit trial and error getting the filing right so the nut just doesn't get hammered out by itself...depends on how stubborn the bearings are. I had to create quite a pronounced lip on the bolt for the main Hemlock pivot bearings, the lip just tucking in behind the bearing as you tighten the bolt, as per below (on the ends of the sleeve that moves across the slightly coned nut on the right)...
[img] [/img]

Confession-time - I took in to the LBS on Saturday for them to do it. He quoted between £30 and £40 so thought for the sake of £30 to £40 every 3 years, go for it.

Took it in before i'd seen your post nuke. Not read your thread yet but if PP rates it then that's good enough for me. 🙂

[url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/specialized-bearing-removal-tool ]Bit late[/url], I actually own a Blind bearing puller, but didn't think the was space between the bearing to fit the 'head', or a good way to support the stays.
Ansdy's tool did the job perfectly (with help of a socket to support the end of the stay)