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[Closed] Cassette sprockets and single speeding?

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[#1074954]

I seperated two cassettes and now have a whole heap of sprockets to play with on my Sanderson Soloist.

The teeth are a fair bit shallower than the dedicated SS sprockets. Are they ok to use for SSing or will my goolies die a horrible and painful death on the top tube if the chain slips.

Anybobody else done it and survived?


 
Posted : 25/11/2009 11:08 pm
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They can work but they tend to be very sensitive to chainline and chain tension.


 
Posted : 25/11/2009 11:10 pm
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I tried them once on a SS conversion (using a sprung tensioner) and gave up! You may get away with a 'proper' SS frame if you keep the chain well tensioned as already said.


 
Posted : 25/11/2009 11:36 pm
 Me
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I'm running this, holding the sprocket in place with part of a deodorant can and an old derailur cable-tied in line.

It's fine.

...but if I wasn't a penniless student I would do it properly, top-tube intimacy is best avoided.


 
Posted : 26/11/2009 12:11 am
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XC bike, casette sprocket, unramped '9spd' front chainring, 9spd chain, Deore mech as a tensioner. I had no problems (though made sure I used the least worn of my sprockets (from several casettes) when using to see how I got on SSing

You'll need about 3 casettes to get enough of the plastic spacers

Yes they are narrow, but if you have casettes that have 3 rivetted pins running through to hold them together you can reuse them. Grind them off at one end (To get the casette apart) and by threading the 3 pins through most of the plastic spacers (retrieved from the casettes) and the sprocket you can distribute the load a fair bit across the freehub body minimising the risk of the sprocket guaging its own run to spin freely around the freehub body

Also, if you've a few casettes, find a pair of same sized sprockets (other than aesthetics you can use differing sized ones). A pair of 21T will cover anything upto about an 18T. Hold them with some moldgrips/locking pliers and set to work griding all the teeth off with an electric bench griding stone thing. Slide on one-but-next to the sprocket either side (seperated by a plastic spacer) and you have a rear 'chainguide' to stop the sprocket dropping the chain

I've not took any pictures yet


 
Posted : 26/11/2009 12:59 am
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Thanks guys for the assistance.

James...top tip on making a chain guide, I hadn't thought of doing that.

Loved this bit tho....made me LOL " electric bench grinding stone thing"


 
Posted : 26/11/2009 6:56 am
 igm
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I bought Shimano DX single speed sprockets from All Terrain for £2.75 each. Don't know if they're still doing them but at that price...

Start with a 32 ring at the front (which you probably already have) and a 16 sprocket at the back. Then stick with it for a bit before you deccide it's wrong. In the flatlands you may need a higher gear but otherwise it's probably right - just let your body adapt.


 
Posted : 26/11/2009 8:04 am