Probably been done to death but I’m interested in how folks clamp carbon frames using a conventional stand
I prefer to turn the clamp horizontally, place the frame on the lower clamp then close the top clamp, but not to the point it exerts any force. You can actually easily slide the frame as the top bit isn’t making contact, just stops the frame from falling off. Obviously this is no good for high torque stuff like bb’s, for which I just place the bike on the ground to do
i could clamp the seatpost, but it requires for more force than I’d be keen to use otherwise it just slips
anyone else use the above method?
I just put it in the stand and wind it up until I hear the first crack, then back off one full turn. 😉
Clamp by the seatpost. Clamping the frame is a dumb idea and I've seen several frames cracked by people doing this.
Either gently clamped like OP detailed or gently clamped on seatpost so that seat is taking the weight.
If you haven't bought one... https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/1566-PREPSTAND-X-PRO
Otherwise seat post
Seatpost only. I'll happily clamp by the Kashima sanction of my transfer without even a rag.
New build and I have all sizes of straight alloy posts to insert into the frame before I get to the dropper post.
I had a 3rd party disassemble the rear triangle from a fairly heavy alloy frame before shipping, you guessed it, dents in the top tube where he clamped it.
Seatpost all the time
Seatpost always, seen many crushed top and seatubes where customers had overtighten stand clamps on home stands
I have a set of road bars wrapped in foam clamped in the stand. I put the bike top tube on these.
Works well for quick jobs where you don't need the bike that secure. Otherwise clamp the seat post.
Hirobel frame clamp.
Seatpost. Its the area designed to take that pressure(and a lot more besides)
For lots of things you don't actually need the bike clamped in any way. I just hang it off the top tube with no force, just done up a bit to stop it moving around. When I need it held in tight, seat tube all the way.
Road bike I'll put an aluminum seat tube in so I can crank it up.
I have my gentleman’s gentleman hold it up for me.
By whatever's convenient, seat-post, top tube whatever; because I'm not a ham-fisted gorilla, and I can judge when the bike's secure.
Seat post
Seatpost here, but I do like this idea:
I have a set of road bars wrapped in foam clamped in the stand. I put the bike top tube on these.
Clamp by the seatpost. Clamping the frame is a dumb idea and I’ve seen several frames cracked by people doing this.
Hamfisted people you mean? I've been doing this on silly thin tubed bikes all the way back to coke can thin cannondales, principias and manitou and never ever cracked a frame.
Pro mechanic here -
you never clamp carbon frames from any part of the frame. Just no. Not even if you think you are being gentle. No.
Clamp the seat tube. At work I have a selection of different dia alu posts I use if the bike has a carbon post, but even a carbon post is a better idea than clamping any frame tube. You should also not clamp alu frames either, though.
Once saw how a coach put his clients tri bike on the stand, clamped the top tube with not very much force, and then working on the bike, the top tube snapped completely. There was a race next day, and the client actually cried when this happened.
By whatever’s convenient, seat-post, top tube whatever; because I’m not a ham-fisted gorilla, and I can judge when the bike’s secure.
This ^^^
Seatpost. On any bike. Very occasionally top tube loosely if I’m eg fitting a dropper.
you might damage the frame directly with the clamp, also if you knock the whole thing over less likely to break something.
Anywhere handy. This only use a seat post may make sense if you are a complete dimwit but other wise cobblers. Is this something taught on a course somewhere? It was punted about decades ago along with , and contradictory to, handy little hints like have your cable guides off to the right of centre on the top tube so you can sit on it. I suspect the latter makes more practical sense.
I bought a silca hirobel, good idea but poorly executed, it is a bit crap really, might work better on skinny road bike tubes but doesn't fit well for gravel and mountain bikes.
I clamp the top tube, been doing it for 20+ years, even on multiple 10k road bikes with zero issues, oh and ive never used a torque wrench on a bike ever!
I find the bike is more stable in the stand if clamped on the top tube compared to the seatpost
My stand's clamp does have nice big rubber covers and they are wrapped with an old clean rag for extra protection
This is done when bleeding brakes, setting up gears etc.. anything involving the need for brute force or high torque then the part is lightly fitted to the bike in the stand and then the bike is placed on the ground (on a cut to size piece of carpet if the bike is going upside down) for the actually tightening or just on the ground when removing things like BB's
I have an feedback ultimate stand so would have to try hard.
But more often than not I'll just hang the nose of the saddle over the top of the clamp.
. At work I have a selection of different dia alu posts I use if the bike has a carbon post
Got one for a propel advance a Scott scale with integrated seat pin or a planet x stealth ?
Pro mechanic here –
Cool and I have respect for your POV, If i take my bike to the shop, and I saw a mechanic [that I'm paying to do work on my bike] clamp it anywhere but the seat-tube, I'd probs go and get it and never darken their door again. Me, at home, by myself on my own bike, not so much.