Hmmm. Hard to say honestly. Perhaps less sharp in elevate mode, but really not that much difference, and I think because you have the ability to switch travel and geometry with the elevate/flow switch that it's fairly hard to pinpoint a difference, as the bike feels so different switching between the modes. I hadn't had the bike that long when I did it, so didn't have a lot to compare it to.
Cheers. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Offsetbushings.com? Did you install a pair? Holes inside right?
Yes, offsetbushings.com, great service. Holes opposite to a normal shock, so inside. Not convinced they don't rotate under the pull force tbh!
Ah yes. Outside since its pull. And given that, under tension as the rear compresses and pulls the shock they will naturally want to move outwards so won't rotate inwards.
Guy on pink bike said the outer bush sleeve was too wide for his Jekyll and needed filed down so as not to contact hus frame. No such issues you're end?
Hiya guys. Anyone decided to upgrade to 1x11 on there trigger 4? Dunno if it's worth it really? If so what did you go for and how much better is it?
Maybe one bushing is enough, changing the angle by about 0.75 degrees vs two for 1.5 degrees. Seems most trail bikes run around 67 degrees, like the Bronson. The Trigger is 67.5 in flow and 68 in elevate. One bushing would give you 66.8 and 67.2. Even that seems to remove some of the benefit of the elevate mode. No?
Swainy. Depends. If you are going 1x anyway?
1x10 vs 1x11 the main difference is the steps between gears. You still have the same 11-42 range (unless you convert to SRAM and go 10-42).
In my case I didn't want to fuss with a new rear mech and front shifter so I just swapped the cassette to 11-42 and the fro the ring to an oval 32t.
However if you plan to change your rear mech too then you you as well go the whole hog with 1x11 and replace the shifter too. No sense not to. But then if you are going to go the whole hog route, it makes sense to wait a bit and see if SRAM bring out a cheaper 1x12. In which case do what I did as a stop gap.
I have offset bushings on my Trigger 4, I run 2 bushings and it has made it a great stable descender and a huge amount of fun. But, the bottom bracket is now very low and the front is very wandery when climbing.
Cheers zero light. I'm currently running a 30t narrow wide and rear cassette is 11-36. Can you buy a cassette that's 11-42 then? This would definitely help with my climbs
Swainy,
I bought this one, the Sunrace MX3. Not only is it a cool black colour, but it's lighter than the £10 cheaper silver one by a reasonable amount.
http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/sunrace-mx3-10-speed-11-42t-black-wide-ratio-mtb-cx-cassette
I also installed a goatlink to get a better chain wrap.
http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/m9b0s599p2459/LINDARETS-Goatlink-2015
The only caveat that I didn't originally budget for, I needed a longer chain to cope with the 11-42. It needed two more links than the 11-36. I'm guessing you shortened yours for the 30t, so you could maybe put them back, otherwise get a new chain too.
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I so need to clean that cassette!
longmover - have you tried just one bush to see how that affects your BB and climbing?
I haven't and don't intend to, I like the way it feels and can trade of the climbing side of things as the extra slackness benefits the downhill side of things. The BB height isn't too much of an issue just a few more pedal strikes than normal. I have a 430mm long reverb at about 10mm off the limit on an XL frame so when it is extended fully I sit pretty close to being inline with the rear axle.
Zerolight that looks Great mate. Is the goatlink to replace part of the original hanger then? Also did you have to do much to the derailleur so it is able to change to a much bigger size (42) or is it ok? Think I might go down the same route as you mate seems a decent set up
Initially I wound out the rear derailleur a fair bit with the b-tension screw. That worked but it was a little more sluggish to shift. Then I got a goatlink which as you say replaces the existing link. You can do it in a couple of mins without releasing cable tension. Then I put the b-tension back where it should go. The main thing was chain length, but the 32t oval is 34t in one direction, 30 in the other, so I had to cater for maybe more chain length than you.
Back end bearing just pronounced dead on mine. Can't grumble after 2,350 km.
Cheers zerolight gonna buy tonight just one thing. What chain did you go for mate? Gonna order the whole lot. 32t narrow wide chain cassette change the whole lot. Cheers
KMC X10.93
Ashy. Brakes were awesome today. Very adjustable. Way less grabby than the XT. Plenty of power and control.
Oh no, don't tell me that!
I ran two offset bushes in my Jekyll - was miles better than stock as I felt the BB is/was too high
I've ordered one bushing to try. Sounds like it'll get me to ballpark Bronson angles of 66.8 to 67.2 depending on mode.
Can someone give me a run down on these bushing. I have no clue what they do but a lot of you are talking about them so must be advantageous. Is it to adjust the geometry of the frame?
They shift the position of the eyelets in the shock relative to the frame. In the case of the Jekyll and Trigger, they make the frame see the shock as a little bit longer than it actually is. On a pull shock this has the same affect on the bike as compressing the shock slightly would, making the bike sit lower at the start of the travel. This does two things, it lowers the bottom bracket and slackers the head angle. One bush moves it about 0.75 degrees, two 1.5. Each bushing drops the BB around 5mm.
Stock, your bike has a 68 degree head angle in elevate. When you flick the lever to flow it slackens to 67.5 and the BB drops 5mm.
If you stick one bush in, you will start at about 67.2 or thereabouts, and the drop to around 66.7 when you move to flow. If you run with two then you'll start around 66.5 in elevate and drop to 66 in flow.
Modern trail bikes tend to be around 66.5 to 67. The Bronson for example is 67. More burly enduros like the Yeti SB6 are around 66. I do a lot of climbing so going below 67 in elevate seems too much, not that I've tried.
Slacker should mean more stable at speed downhill, and easier to lift the front. Small changes apparently gave a big impact. I've not tried one of these yet. Too slack and it wanders and lifts when climbing.
Cheers zero light definitely sounds like a decent addition. Tbh I been thinking about getting an enduro because I do find jumping from my dh bike to the trigger I'm struggling with front end dipping. Where do you buy these bushes from? Are they easy to fit also. And changing the geometry of the bike can this cause stress point in the frame?
Offsetbushings.com
Looks like remove a bolt. Pull the bushings. Fit the new ones. I imagine we might need to take air out the shock too but not certain. I'm just getting one, will swap out the one at the top of the shock. I think they are fairly harmless. But I'm changing it at the linkage rather than the frame end just in case.
easy enough to change - remove the shock from the frame - use a bushing removal tool to remove the original shock DU bushes, press in the new supplied offset.com DU bushes then install the actual offset drilled mounting, roughly line up where the offset hole needs to be, assemble the shock back in the frame, compress the rear suspension to fully align the offsets then tighten the mounting bolts up.
My input to this thread is a few pages back and I really struggled with my Jekyll's geometry once 'new bike syndrome' wore off. Offsets were a good move and it started to feel geometry wise where I wanted it to be. Then the bloody thing cracked!
shorter than it isThey shift the position of the eyelets in the shock relative to the frame. In the case of the Jekyll and Trigger, they make the frame see the shock as a little bit longer than it actually is.
Rusty, on a push shock they make it appear shorter. On a pull shock the make it appear longer (unless you put them in back to front). The dyad extends (gets longer) under rear compression unlike a traditional shock.
Stuck my carbon2 into a drystone wall front tyre ripped off front brake hose torn out of calliper me bruised and cut to shit. Wall had a big hole in it. Xrays came back no breaks and my arm should work again in a couple of days. Fork and frame survived unscathed which is a relief.
Sounds like you had a lucky escape. Managed to do the same on my trigger 4 a year ago..... totalled the frame, glad yours survived with minor damage.
Eek. Sounds nasty! Glad it's not too expensive.
I've ordered a second bushing and Rusty's recommended bushing tool. First bushing hasn't even arrived yet.
Bushes arrived today. For some reason I thought we had 6mm bolts, but they have shipped 8mm. Assuming that is correct then my assessment of the head angle change (0.75 or 1.5) was wrong - two will get me the desired 1.0 drop. I can now see why you all have two installed!
Ashy. I assume you left the stock DU in the bike rather than using the supplied from Offsetbushings.com? Looks like a Dyad specific DU maybe to protect the carbon pivot? Doesn't seem worn so I'm thinking leave it be. It also looks like it splits in the middle and needs to be pushed out from the middle rather than with the DU tool?
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also... how tight do you nip up the bolts again when re-mounting the shock? I've gone with 5Nm.
I spoke with Offset Bushings, and now understand that those are what regular Fox DU bushings look like on any Fox rear. As they aren't worn and the new offset core is tight in the bushings, there's no need to change them. They did say that they tend to wear quite quickly and that some day I should consider swapping in their bushings. I imagine it'll need a service before then. Can't test ride because there's snow everywhere!
My dropper has become a suspension post again. These Lev droppers really are shot for reliability. It's going back for the second time in 3 months.
Is it normal for the negative air in the dyad to drop around 50psi when connecting the air pump. I'm assuming this is what is happening and that the negative air chamber must be much smaller than +ve making it more sensitive. If not then I guess the dyad needs to go to mojo.
On a plus note, I like the offset bushings. Not had a chance to trial them on a fast descent as we did a shorter ride today because it's bloody cold. But it was fine on the Climbs and I found that I left it in elevate mode on the smooth flat bits a lot more too - normally I drop to flow because it's more relaxing on the wrists to have the weight back a bit. So that's a bonus.
If I recall correctly yes, it is normal to see the psi drop. Through tightening on the pump you'll loose some pressure until the seal is made.
The valve on one of the chambers seems to open twice. Screw so far on and gauge moves, another turn and it jumps up some more.
Hi guys, I think it is just pressure released when the pump is screwed back on. It seems to drop about 30 or 40 PSI releasing air into the pump. I tried setting it last night, removed the hose and put it back on, down from around 260 to 220, then I removed it and put it back on again without doing anything and it was down around 180. So I reckon the shock is fine. Shame about the dropper though!
Seems a bit excessive the amount it is dropping though. Mine loses around 10psi that's with taking it off and putting it back on
Hi Swainy - I have the vaguest recollection that it's always been this way, and for some reason I recall reading it someplace. The +ve only drops a few PSI but it takes a much greater volume of air than the negative.However, Mojo reckon it is probably fine since it's always dropped the same amount no matter how long I have left it, so I think I'll ignore it for a while until the service is due.
Sort of related - anyone else notice that in order to hit the correct sag, you need to run pressures a fair bit lower than recommended on the chart. I'm 77kg and find 65 psi in the lefty, and 265+/255- in the Dyad hits the correct sag and feels plush.
I also find I need to reset my Lefty bearings every 3 or 4 rides (TFT reckon this is very normal). It's a 2 min job so no big deal and TFT tell me it would need done less frequently if I ran the fork stiffer - so a trade off.
Zero, I believe every review of the bike I've read says to run lower pressure than the recommended. Makes you wonder why they set the pressures so high
I remember setting my Rebas on my last bike to the Rockshox recommendation and they were brick hard. My hands ached after a 2 hour ride.
@Zero - fear not! Your pressure loss is entirely normal. It is simply the effect of the air in the hose/internals of the pump becoming pressurised when you connect it.
I had a long conversation with a fantastically helpful engineer at Mojo to establish this - and that there wasn't in fact a problem with my DYAD as I thought.
The issue is amplified with the negative chamber as the volume is smaller.
