Tubeless tyres - the solution to a problem that doesn't exist. After reading of countless experiences like this, I really don't know why anyone bothers. Unless you really are a proper race snake.
Only once have I ever had a problem running tubeless, and that was a flint slash to one of my tyres. Plus I'm a heavy rider.
I instantly noticed improved feel/feedback and lighter rolling resistance when switching to tubeless, plus have heard/witnessed umpteen punctures seal themselves almost instantly whilst on the trail.
This is a combo of running stans set-up or ghetto set up with gorilla tape, on various bikes.
Clearly horses for courses but I would never switch back to using pointless tubes. I carry a spare in my bag for emergencies and that's it. I would urge anyone having bad experiences to practice their set up, seal any gaps, and crack on.
Clearly horses for courses
True.
I would never switch back to using pointless tubes
In your opinion.
I'm on the tubed horse on the not stuck in the middle on nowhere course.
PSA: Hope Tech 3 V4 calipers do not fit onto the Lefty brake adapter. Well not without the 4 washers I need to buy. And at the back end neither the caliper nor the lever assembly fit through the gap betwixt Lefty and headtube, so despite the brake pipe being pretty much the right length you have to remove it from the lever assembly and bleed. Grrrrr.
At least the shift to 1x11 XT went OK.
Looking forward to getting my Jekyll back out in the mud.
Yeah. First world problems I know, but really thought I'd be riding it this afternoon. 🙁
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I've got some pretty serious wear on my rear cassette. I had noticed my shifting had started to get a little poor.
I've never had to replace a cassette before but I've also never been winter riding 3 times a week.
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So it turns out. Once you buy a sunrace mx3 cassette and two chains your mate will phone and say that the teeth are meant to be different and they aren't worn. Oh well. The hills will be easy now.
Offset bushings installed and ridden. The bb feels like it is in a better position for me as I like the rear suspension quite firm and run less than the recommended amount of sag. The static head angle is now 66.5 degrees and makes the bike feel quite stable on the steeps. I only had a play yesterday but will add more when I have given it a proper go on the steep stuff.
The bushings themselves were a doddle to install with the correct tool. So far I am definitely impressed by the change, it now feels like it will be more upto the job on really steep and technical terrain. so far I am impressed.
About to replace the bottom bracket on my Cannondale Trigger 4. I guess 4 months isn't too bad... I have never had a press fit bottom bracket before, can anyone recommend a replacement BB? I am a bit confused by the press fit standards.
Thanks
Henry
Hope ceramic fitted by my LBS.
@ Longmover...Where did you get the offset bushings from and what sizes were they please?
Offsetbushings.com I can't tell you the size, I just told them the frame and shock combination and they arrived a couple of days later.
I am pleased to report there have been no bottom out problems and the bike feels a lot more planted on the steep technical stuff. I have 3mm offset top and bottom.
Perfect. Ta!
No problem, definitely worth doing in my opinion.
Flowerman, if your trigger 4 is the same as mine then it has a bottom bracket converter. Don't buy a bb30 bottom bracket unless you want to change cranks too. I've not examined mine in much detail but I imagine you could buy any shimano hollow tech bb and it'd do the job.
Has anyone thought about fitting some kind of downtube protection? I notice Rockguardz do them for the 29er but I think the frames are different aren't they?
Cut up one of the wolverines and cable tie it on, it'll be better as a frame guard than a tyre.
Haha! Mine came with the mavics, although what you suggest is as true for them as it is the wtb's!
flowerman, how many miles would you say that your bb has lasted? I've done around 400 and I think mine is on the way out also. Has been a muddy few months though
I would guess I have done about 3-400 miles or so, maybe a little less. Not sure at the moment, what is this BB converter?
I have a trigger 4 medium with 17.5cm of seat post sticking out of the frame. I want to get a dropper post and was looking at RockShox reverb but not sure if i should get stealth vs regular, 100mm drop versus 125mm, length of post, left or right - although left seems logical. Any advice! Diameter is 31.6?!
Thanks!
I'm about to get one also. My understanding is that the bike has stealth routing so stealth is an option. Seatpost is 31.6
My medium trigger can fit 200mm of seat post inside. My max seat height is 18 cm. So if I get the 380mm I can put 200mm inside, 180mm outside and utilise the full 125mm dropper.
I haven't got a shifter on the left so I'm going to mount it there but underneath. Which means ordering the reverb with RH shifter.
I think I've thought of everything. Please help if not.
I am not sure about stealth or regular reverb. Seat hight seems tight I may check mine again.
I have a strealth ks lev on my xl trigger. It worked fine and have the perfect amount of adjustment. Getting all the routing set up was a pain being that I hadn't done it before but it's been faultless since.
Looks like you may need to remove shock and BB and bleed etc. if you get stealth. Is it still worth it over regular reverb?
The routing for a reverb stealth is pretty easy, it comes out of the seat tube and into the down tube at the lower shock mounting.
It's fairly simple if you have a set of picks.
I have the Reverb Stealth 150mm (420mm) and have about 80mm still out of the large frame.
Stealth routing was fairly easy to fit, no bleeding involved with the Thingamajig, and the hose was easy to trim. Shock and crank had to be removed to route the cable but this was easy. A fair bit of water came out when I removed the crank(!) so took the opportunity to drill a 5mm hole at the bottom of the BB casing for a drain hole.
Only thing to mention is check the pressure as it needs to be 250psi and wasn't out of the box, also don't overtighten your seatpost clamp.
Other than all that it is absolutely the best thing I've ever bought.
crazmac I don't understand if you are putting the dropper trigger on the left why are you ordering the RH version? I see you can buy the stealth for 209 at winstanleys. Looking at the pictures is the down routing of the cable included in the 380mm length? Would really like to here from someone who has actually fitted a stealth! What are picks?
A set of little hooks to pull hose out of the frame, having them meant I didn't have to take the cranks off.
The RH remote sits on top off the bar. Or you can turn it upside down and put it under on the left. I feel like it would be more comfortable under the bar.
So I am unsure weather to buy right or left rockshox reverb stealth. There appears to be an internal cable exit on the right. So it seems logical to go for the right but the trigger for the back shock sits on the right handle bar. What do people suggest?
Buy the right hand model and mount it under the bars on the left handside
So I am unsure if I should buy a right or left rockshox reverb stealth. There appears to be an internal cable exit on the right. So it seems logical to go for the right but the trigger for the back shock sits on the right handle bar. What do people suggest?
The rear shock switch sits nicely under the bars on the left hand side. That is how I have mine set up. Although probably won't work that way if you are running a front shifter.
I moved the rear shock lever to the left bar as it is reversible, and got a left reverb on there too as no front shifter. I bought a CTD remote for the forks on the right hand side.
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Hi all. Just picked myself up one of these off ebay, seems a cracking idea.
Has anyone serviced the pivot bearings in an aluminium trigger yet? Is it difficult? any special tools required?
I did wonder about using one of the dual CTD remotes like on the Scotts for the front and rear shocks. But swapping out to the Pikes so that is out.
I have enough levers already, mostly I leave the forks in trail mode.
Looks like a great setup trickyd. Has anyone considered upgrading the front fork on the trigger 4. I've read about upgrading to the fit 2016 damper cartridge. I think it's great as it is but it gives more damping options for those who like to fiddle.
Anyone tried running the 2 speed front shifter as a shock remot yet? Seems like a good idea as my dad remote can be quite stiff! I know you can supposedly use a grip shift, but I'm going 1x10 this weekend and thought I may as well have s pop with the x7 trigger....
Jonnytheleyther the idea of the cable holder is great, the reality is very different. Had one and it lasted a few weeks, now have a speed stuff neoprene Velcro wrapthing designed for DH forks to protect from cable rub and it's a much better solution.
Just thinking of going 1x10 on my carbon 2, what chainring type do I need? Any suggestions? thinking of a 32t one and looked at absolute black, works, superstar and race face but just got confused.
Also heard getting the crank off is tough, any suggestions or tips?
Cheers
Liam
The cranks on my Carbon 2 were on really tight. It took loads of force to get the bolt to move, you will need more than a normal Allen key to remove them - but they do come off.
I think I have a 30t Works direct mount ring on mine. From memory you need the GXP version rather than the BB30 version.
