[Closed] Calling Intense Tracer VP riders....

Don't have a Tracer, but run an Uzzi, so not dissimilar.

Mine's pretty good - certainly it's the capability of the forks that slow me down not the back end. According to the website calcs I'm considerably oversprung too, but softer springs leave it feeling wallowy. I assume the bearings are well greased?

Is the harshness all the time, or only whilst pedalling? They do stiffen a bit under power, as the chain tension pulls the lower link down a bit - it's the thing that makes them feel quite so sprightly for a biffer.

Was the Van R custom tuned when you bought it? VPP bikes don't need much in the way of compression damping. I have a DHX4 on mine - 1 click of propedal and 130psi in the boost valve (which is about the minimum allowable). Fairly fast rebound.

Check the frame alignment. Intense bikes are renowned for back and front ends not lining up.

My mate snapped the front end of his Socom and the new one they sent was so bad he couldn't actually fit it to the rear end!

If the shock is being compressed at an angle, this could cause spiking and shock damage. Just a thought...

[i]Was the Van R custom tuned when you bought it? VPP bikes don't need much in the way of compression damping. I have a DHX4 on mine - 1 click of propedal and 130psi in the boost valve (which is about the minimum allowable). Fairly fast rebound. [i]

Yes - by tft according to my weight/style/bike. As its a Van I can't adjust the platform/compression. Do TfT keep records of these things - can I ask them how much compression/platform they left the shock with?

Ferrit - I've has the bike apart to check every thing and it all goes back together with even clearances each side so I don't think its misalingned.

Cant say ive noticed that feeling, if anything id say the mid range was too soft. As stated above i dont find the backend the limiting factor, its very plush whatever i seem to do. Im still runing the RP23 mind, which by all accounts does tend to give up its mid range travel quite readily.

Pedalling or not?
I run a air can so can't comment really on the fox coil set up.
Tend to find this only when pedalling slightly which i assume it should anyway.
Can take a while to find the sweet spot and know other more lardy rider have had issues with mid travel blow through which also affected early DW 5 spots (pre-boost valve RP 23)
Maybe you are bewteen spring rates or too much spring pre load or compression tune, (i take it the Fox DHX you mention doesn't have low and high compresion adjustment?)

Mine was great but then I was running a Bos Stoy which can be custom tuned to suit VPP bikes and has independant low and high speed compression adjustements.

Persevere with your shock tunning and speak to the guys at TF Tuned if you are not sure.

As ever most things are a compromise but it sounds like you need to make some adjustments to your compression tune if your shock has that facility.

FWIW I found the RP23 cr*p.

Worth noting (look up!)I run a Van R coil - I found the RP23 crap as well - even more so as the Boost valve broke.

Mine has the RP23 and sorry guys, but I have no issues with it. Fork is RS sektor 150. I usually wind it down to 130/140. Again I like it lots. FWIW I ride mostly natural stuff on Exmoor, out of Minehead, and Porlock. Rocky/rooty.

The issue with the RP23 largely (in most cases at least) depends on your weight. For the heavier amongst us (that would include me - 14st without kit or indeed anything) the RP23 would blow through it's travel at the drop of a hat or rather a twig. It did not work well on either of my Tracers. Both were set up in 6inch mode using a Van36 up front.

Horses for courses, some like it and some don't.

Anyway, this thread is not about the RP23 it's about what Kryton57 can do about his shock. My advice, call TF Tuned.

Completely agree with dans160. For heavier riders the RP23 BV gives up its travel far too easily. Currently experimenting with the new BOS Vipr air shock, which initially seems to be a big improvement - also apparently set at the factory to suit the Tracer - but need to do some more riding to be sure. I'm pretty sure TFT suggested I should go down the PUSH route to get the best set-up on the RP23, which isn't cheap, but cheaper than a new shock.

Flog it and get a Trance
(or Pivot :lol:)

Kryton, there is nothing wrong with your Tracer, it's a superb bike, both mine were brilliant, just get your shock set-up properly. You've bought a top notch frame so spend some time getting set-up correctly. Spending £££ does not mean fit and forget.

I'm going to try a temporarily solution of riding the same setup in 6" mode (ie same spring). IIRC the ratio will mean it blows through the initial travel faster and not hold up at the beginning of the stroke, resulting in a more active ride.

The garden test I just did feels a lot more comfy.

This'll tell me if my initial compression is too high in 5.5" mode I reckon, before comitting to sending it off to TfT.

It might also tell me if I prefer comfy vs firm 🙂

Right done - in 6inch mode with one extra click of rebound damping and the bike is riding beautifully. After this weekends ride there is no sign of coil bind although I can feel the spring moving about quite a lot more.

So whats the diagnosis? Changing the leverage ratio has resulting in a much less firm ride but whats the item that needs changing when back in 5.5 mode - the Platform setting or the compression damping?

Platform/pro pedal etc. usually are compression tunes specifically low speed damping. In 5.5inch mode you want to reduce it if you can.

It's easier to keep it in the 6inch mode I reckon.

Sorry guys, quicask.

what size cane creek fits the tracer 2010 vpp?

cheers

s2bug - not sure of the ccdb specifics but the size/stroke for a Tracer is 200 x 57mm or 7.875 x 2.25inches.

So hopefully the last report as I've now put enough significant miles on to compare the two. In 6" mode then the shock moves much more and the bike's more like "most" modern 140mm bikes - lots of movement/damping over small bumps, loads more on large rollers and drops but never bottoms out. Despite the increased movement there's hardly any bob still when climbing.

In 5.5 mode, its much more "firm", probably more in line with a 120mm bike and I reckon I'd be lucky to be getting any more than 120mm travel anyway, with the advantage of stiffness while climbing and no brake jack such as from a single pivot. I can "feel" the roots and small bumps much more and there generally less movement on the shock.

So in summary for a comfortable day and perhaps I'd stick it in 6" mode, for Enduro's and races I'd leave it in 5.5 to stiffen it up.

I don't think I'll change anything from a propedal or compression perspective, as the only penalty to swap modes is 5 mins with an allen key.

Huzzah!

Sigh.

So after the Purple Mountain 100 at the weekend(in 5.5 mode) I decided to send it off to TfT for a compression adjustment. They've lowered it slightly but state that it was in the normal range and (becuase it was a vpp bike) they had removed most of the platform previously.

TfT mentioned it could be s sticky bearing - even if I couldnt feel it with the shock off, so bearing replacement could be on the cards even after six months riding. How much money do I have to throw at this bloody bike?
[i]
Incidentally I had a chance to ride someone elses Tracer (with RP23) - night and day over the roots. Grrr....

(I would like to express my gratitude to TfT for discounting the price on the basis I didnt need a full service - very honest of them).

Getting really tedious now!!
Get back on BikeMagic.
Or buy a Pivot.
Just a thought - can you list how much you've spent on this since you bought it?

And you dont have a cats chance of selling it on this forum now 😉

If its tedious for you, how do you think I'm feeling..... :/