[Closed] Brakes hitting top tube? Anything to stop that?

Higher rise bars and to move lever clamps as outboard as is comfortable

An Acros block lock head set will stop that happening

Wider bars?
Dual crown forks?
I'm sure someone makes a rotation limiting headset.

Levers hanging vertically off your bars are sooo last decade dahling!

are your brakes rotated too far down ?
much more comfy if they're pointing "largely" forward IME

An Acros block lock head set will stop that happening

+1 for that, Ritchey, I think also does one. The top section of the headset has a positive stop to physically prevent the bars from turning. If you're happy with the geometry / handling as is, it's the easiest option.

http://www.balfa.co.uk/ai-22-stainless-block-lock-headset

You can buy just the upper assembly, I think I got one from Cycle Solutions for about 60 quid last year.

Raise them by a gnats jiffy.

Unless they're parallel to the ground then you can raise them a little bit, I'm sure.

Shorten the hose so it gets ripped out of the lever before the blade contacts the tube?
(obviously not...)

I had this issue, are yours Guides by any chance?
I ended up buying new brakes 😮

Over tighten your headset so you can only steer by leaning or bunny hopping round

Mine are like this on my Sherpa. I run them so they just miss the top tube just but they're still a bit too close to horizontal for my liking and that's with a high rise bar (38mm). Fork steerer is too short to get them any higher but even if it were longer I'm not sure I'd like the bars any higher.

Can you post up a picture. How much clearance do you need
We had the problem with our daughters Enduro fitted with Saint brakes. Couldn't move the angle or distance in on the brakes as she wouldn't have it. All her bikes are set up the same with the same brakes to the millimetre.
Fitted a 3mm spacer without her knowing and she didn't notice till she stripped the bike to get it in the bike bag.

I like that last one, it may be the winner..

I only have a 10mm rise bar on so a bigger rise might do it, its a brand new carbon bar so would be a shame to get rid but that might be the only option. They are 800's so can't go wider!
No more room on steerer to raise the stem, unless you can get away with 20-30mm of steerer not being held by the stem.

If it is that close then rotate them higher up by 2 gnat's jiffy...you won't really notice that if it is so slight.

I've been using a Skean for years.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cadiax-SKEAN-MTB-top-tube-protector-clear-or-black/143429867646?hash=item216516187e:m:mQOFdte9RbfpbhUShj71AGg

I would def do something about it, I've made annoying chips in paint before because of this.

Higher rise bar maybe? I've gone to 38mm rise on two of my bikes and much prefer it, really does help for technical riding IME.

I’ve been using a Skean for years.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cadiax-SKEAN-MTB-top-tube-protector-clear-or-black/143429867646?hash=item216516187e:m:mQOFdte9RbfpbhUShj71AGg
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It looks a bit gash but better than a damaged top tube, thanks dickie I will give that a go!

 

Another vote for do something... I dented a top tube in a crash because of a control/top tube interface.
Cheapest/easiest option is shorten the cables on the shifter/brake hose so the bar can’t turn that far, you may damage them in a crash but it’s a cheap easy fix

Mark where they hit the top tube then cut that section out

The advantage of that Acros headset is that you can then set up the bars, stem, levers etc exactly as you want them.

Gnats jiffy headset spacers just released by Hope and Oneup, order now.

Been there but it's been the shifter body doing the damage for me.
Loose levers/controls will help prevent damage if interference is a must, but no contact or Acros headset per above is obviously best as in many cases carbon is paper thin in that zone and you're not denting it, you're breaking it.
I've tried to avoid crashing...but realised that's not fool proof 😉

OK, following the excellent advice (as always ST!) I have:

Raised the bars a 'Gnats Jiffy' by adding another headset spacer, its way more than 5mm above the top of my stem now but it'll be reeet.

Over tightened the headset so it taken all my effort to move the bars

Bought and fitted an Acros headset

Swapped out the Pikes for Boxxers

Replaced my 10mm rise with a 40mm bar

Shortened the hoses so they will rip the instant I crash

Googled 'Gnats Jiffy' and 'Hope/OneUp'

Rotated the brakes and shifter to horizontal

Loosened the brakes and shifter so they wobble about when I am riding

Added a Skean

Cut out the offending bit of top tube

Are you still reading this s*it? 😉

That seems to have fixed it, job done!

I just wrap a bit of roadie bar tape round the top tube, seems far too sensible.

I just wrap a bit of roadie bar tape round the top tube, seems far too sensible.

I'll do that now..

Shorten the reach on the lever blade?

New bike?