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Your caliper is not central - centralise it and it should be a bit more gap but so long as nothing touches its fine
Use the two part method fro the hope site to centralise the calliper - its works well
IS mount/adapter looks fine but as TJ says, your caliper looks to be positioned too far inboard
I use the method shown in the video to centralise my calipers so you should be fine.
I've never found the 'squeeze the lever method' to be particularly accurate for centring my calipers...I find it easiest to remove the pads, then align the caliper by eye.
I've never found the 'squeeze the lever method' to be particularly accurate for centring my calipers...I find it easiest to remove the pads, then align the caliper by eye.
This. For two reasons.
Firstly, if you loosen the bolts, the tension in the hose from the fluid pressure twists the caliper; then, when you have it slightly tightened, it's often easier for the caliper to bend the rotor to its position than otherwise.
I found align one side of the caliper, tighten half a turn, align the other, half a turn, then tighten both.
* is the rotor true? It only takes a slight warp in the rotor for this to become an impossible task (but still perfectly rideable). Don't assume a new rotor is true, I've had to send 2 in a row back to the online shop I bought them from.
* save your sanity and know when good enough is good enough - unless all the parts are 100% new and bang on, the set up never will be, end even then it'll start to degrade a tad with riding.
It's a bit of a judgement call as this is the interface between theoretical in the lab engineering, and the crufty jaggy entropy-dominated real world.
The acid test is, with decent power in the brakes and the pads pumped out, you can spin the wheels with no drag and the braking is smooth.
Just look at the vids on the hope site for the best way to centre a caliper - first you get the caliper central then you make sure the pistons are centralised and move evenly

