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Having a real fight to get the drive side cup out of the shell 👿
Non drive side came out with no drama but the side is stuck fast and I mean really stuck.
Whats the best way forward?
I can't get enough pressure on the tool to stop it slipping out.
I can't use a bit of threaded bar through the middle to clamp it as it is a square taper BB and has no through hole.
The whole lot is for the bin so any method to get it out would be good as long as there is no damage to the frame.
Thoughts?
Apologies in advance, but are you definitely turning the bb the right way to undo it? If yes, what about putting the bb tool in a vice and using the frame as a lever?
Tool on refit crank bolt with a suitable washer tool in vice turn frame make sure you fot the correct way. Soak it in penetrating oil aswell. Cross fingers it dosnt strip the thread.
I had same thing a couple of days ago. Went for the rubber hammer option and gave it a few taps in either direction. That seemed to break if free - was tapping rather than walloping. Well maybe a bit more force in the unscrew direction.
jeffskowski - MemberI can't use a bit of threaded bar through the middle to clamp it as it is a square taper BB and has no through hole.
Can you bolt into the axle to achieve the same thing?
Oh, PS, this is getting quoted right into the next "external BBs suck balls, what was wrong with square taper?" thread 😉
It's well soaked in Penetrating oil. The frame is currently sitting so the BB is immersed in oil in a bowl 🙂
Been turning, or trying to turn it, clockwise. Also tried anticlockwise to see if I could 'crack' the bind a little.
Crank bolt is not long enough to reach the spindle and the tool only has a socket drive so based on the advice I need a new tool with the option of getting a spanner on it and a longer bolt to clamp the new tool on.
Arses. Nothing is ever easy.
Thanks for the advice!
I'd be inclined to take it to a good shop at this point... Reason being, you're going to incur costs anyway if you start buying new tools, and if the interface gets damaged (all too easy with ST) then it'll be a nightmare to get out. So might as well be a nightmare for someone else 😉
as said above, best way is to put tool in vice and turn the frame.
This worked for me for a BB that had been in many years, maybe 6 or 7.
Took 2 of us though, one to turn the frame and one to stop the bench/vice twisting.
If mine is tight I usually knock the tool with a mallet and it then just comes out easily!!
I like your thinking Northwind. Halfords are just over the road and they have a tool for about £7 which is half the length of my current tool. I have a spanner. Going to have one more try with the new tool tonight and if no luck will take it to LBS and he can have a go 🙂
Perhaps a little gentle heat may help?
I had the same problem... you need more leverage. I had an 8mm car brake caliper tool, into the BB tool. and a set of handlebars on the end of the caliper tool. 2ft+ of leverage, came off no problems
Aren't you tightening it? The drive side should unscrew anti-clockwise not clockwise?
Thought is was reverse thread in the drive side? Either way it is not moving at all in either direction.
Tried some heat but didn't want to go too far and scorch the paint etc. It's properly 'on there'!
Will report back after this evenings shenanigans.
Fingers and toes crossed 🙂
There are various tricks to do it, but sounds like you've tried the easier ones - after that it gets a bit industrial, though I've never failed to shift one eventually. Get thee to a good bike shop 😉
If mine is tight I usually knock the tool with a mallet and it then just comes out easily!!
Yeah, but your bikes are in good nick and get regular servicing. I doubt you've ever really seen a proper stuck BB!
We use the downtime off an Apollo as an extension bar on tools at the shop but sometimes even then you mash the tool or the BB interface and its still in there. The last one like that was this week, caused by neglect on a scale most STWers can only imagine.
BB is reverse thread on drive side - pedals are reverse thread on NDS
Depending on the size of the tool (ahem) I'd positioned it on the BB, put an old washer over the top then used the crank bolt to attach the tool to the BB. Get some leverage on the tool and pour penetrating oil down the seattube too!
If you cant get a long enough crank bolt then an 8mm bolt should work too (but thread pitch is smaller than an M8!)
Left is right
Right is wrong
- unless it's Italian 😀
Looks like the bike was never ever serviced apart from a spot of chain lube [i]maybe[/i].
I won't be beaten 😈 but if I am, I'll get it to someone else who won't 🙂
A big pole and turning it the right way should do it.
You can usually bolt the BB tool on to the BB axle, using the bolts and a few washers to keep the tool in place.
Check, then double check which way it goes.
I had a road bb stuck.
Got a mate to weld a long bar to it, came out easy peasy.
Needs to be steel though.
Or fit a long bar to your tool. Tread on it.
Wow.
A big pole and turning it the right way should do it.
Poles working in bike shops ? I thought they were all builders
Is not an issue with length of lever. I can go to 6 foot if need be 🙂 It's the issue of keeping the tool engaged when applying that much torque to it.
It's coming out tonight. I can feel it 😉
Definitely need to fix tool to bb somehow
A kettle or two of boiling water will heat it up with damaging the paint*
Give me a big enough lever... etc
good luck
*usually
Is not an issue with length of lever. I can go to 6 foot if need be It's the issue of keeping the tool engaged when applying that much torque to it.It's coming out tonight. I can feel it
That sounds like me having a poo.
when i went from square taper to hollow tech 2, it was the hardest part ever to remove. it took me hours. i ended up putting a seat post over the wrench to give me extra leverage. got the bugger off in the end. keep with it. 🙂
As said above clamp the tool in the vice, not the frame. Unless you want to bend it. Good luck.
It's out! 🙂
New tool bolted with crank bolt and washers.
Tool clamped in vice and a very sharp yank on the head tube and "CRACK"!!!
BB was in a right state with more rust than clean metal.
Cheers for all the tips and tricks!
Time for a beer 😀
Actually, I think it's time for a second one 
Put some decent grease on the threads when you put the next one in eh?
