[Closed] Bodging Hydros onto drops

some systems dont like the resevoir tipped up at funny angles?

Won't it be really nasty riding in the hoods?

EDIT: and a bit worrying if you've machined the clamps out?

When I bleed my deores, I rotate the reservoir until it's horizontal, then take the top off. Will that still be possible on midge bars?

I don't like the sound of a machined out clamp - how much material is needed to be removed?

How about the cable to hydro conversions like on this thread
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/drop-bars-and-hydraulic-disk-brakes

why on earth would you want to?

The king of Sweden has some

why on earth would you want to?

Erm drop bars off road but with good brakes ? Other than bb7 road that is

Yeah machining would weaken the typically cast type clamp. Looking at again removing the entire clamp and ataching your own 'strap type' clamp would do the trick.

I'll be using Midge bars, and they throw the lever out at an angle, making the cheapo Deore body pretty comfortable to hold onto. Plus they'd have a bit of bar tape around them.
I'm taking them into my mates engineering workshop for his asessment Wednesday, the guys done loads of mods from making and welding on disc mounts to building complete frames.

BTW it's to go onto a Croix De Fer build, and bleeding isn't a job you do that often really.

This is the puppy in question.
[img] [/img]

Teh other thing to watch is where the outlet from the reservoir into the master cylinder would end up - would it suck air in?

I'm not quite sure what you mean there TJ, but they only be at the same angle as for example they'd be on some Jones bars. This idea would have no hope on normal drops.
The side you can't see already has a tapped hole in the body itself.
First thoughts are to remove the entire clamp and fit a stainless strap.

Why would you want drop bars offroad anyway, does it make you more aero or just more niche?

One word:

Avid BB7 or 5

That's 4 words!

The resovoir ( the bit you put the fluid in) has a drilling into the master cylinder ( the bit with the piston in) the drilling has to remain below the level of the fluid at all times or it will draw air into the system( as even with the diaphragm its almost impossible not to get a tiny bit of air in the reservoir

this is why if you pull the lever with the bike upside down the brake goes spongy sometimes

Sounds like the angles you have will be OK tho

I am not going to comment apart from please put pics up when / if you work it out, I am quite fascinated by how it will look.

One I don't want flat bars on a disc only crosser, and two...yes BB7s would be my first choice of cable discs.

But I'm thinking I'll want to brake from the drops - mostly - and this would put the levers just at the right spot.

[img] [/img]

using magura julies on midge bars. Will take some pics tomoro

You'll need to spread the clamp from 22.2 to 23.8 dia...5mm circ. And accommodate the curve, bit of filing needed.

I like bodge but with the price of avids on eBay makes it a daft idea - v difficult to get right and always a compromise even if you manage it.

My recent bodge ideas have been more sensible but I've gotten a right slagging from many Inc. TJ for them.

How about mounting them on the lowest / furthest back section of the bar with the lever sticking back into the normal brake lever zone?

I've seen normal road brakes mounted that way on chopped bars.

It would sort the drawing air in problem, but would it put the brake lever in reach?

Hmmm, thing is I want the best braking when I'm into the drops. I've gaffer taped them into place 😐 and I can use one finger to brake from the drops and from what would be the hood area, but in the drops I can get full coverage.

This build isn't out to win any awards for good looks, I just want a build that reflects my riding which is long and only mildly technical xc rides. I felt totally overbiked with an MTB.

I like the idea. I've been eyeing off hydraulic levers for ages to see if one can be modified for dropbar use. Reaming 0.5mm out of the mount is unlikely to cause a problem IMO.

I'm using BB7s on 2 dropbar bikes. The curves introduced by making the cable go through tight curves to conform to the bar reduces the brake performance. I have one set using old fashioned levers where the cables come out the top, and they feel much better than those with the aero levers.

I've got a set of Magura HS77s dropbar hydraulic levers and considered trying to modify them to work with a disk, oldgit's idea sounds more feasible.

Find a sleeve similar diameter/thickness and fettle that first.I just picture you drilling it out and finding that to get around the bends on those bars,you will have to take more and more out.. leaving something you didnt expect! The first crash could see all your hard work end in tears.Maybe even the tightening of the clamp onto the bars could pop it before the first ride,who knows.

I would find an old lever and take it from there.be safe!

Buy some Hydros with a split clamp?

Can't say I have any problems using BB7s though - even on "modern" STIs

I've got a set of Magura HS77s dropbar hydraulic levers and considered trying to modify them to work with a disk, oldgit's idea sounds more feasible.

WANT!

andrewh - Member
'I've got a set of Magura HS77s dropbar hydraulic levers and considered trying to modify them to work with a disk, oldgit's idea sounds more feasible.'
WANT!

I've got a set of HS66s too 🙂

Oldgit, what are you going to do about your gear change if you do this?

Must have been listed between hen's teeth and rocking horse manure.

Oldgit, what are you going to do about your gear change if you do this?

I'm using bar end shifters anyway. Again for trail riding I don't make that many changes, and they fall in place nicely on Midges.

oldgit - Member
I'm using bar end shifters anyway. Again for trail riding I don't make that many changes, and they fall in place nicely on Midges.

I've been using Versa levers with my BB7s - I'm finding them a bit imprecise, but I'm going to play around with the cable routing etc before blaming them.

I wonder if this mod would be better done with a split clamp lever.

So you're over-biked on a mtb, but under-braked on a X bike with Avid discs?
🙄

edit rubish

This is one possibility I had for a hydraulic on drop bars. The clamp would have to be remade.

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doof_doof - Member
So you're over-biked on a mtb, but under-braked on a X bike with Avid discs?

I'd just go with flats and bar ends...

Ongoing issue isn't it? Not solved by swapping bars or bikes or anything else. I want hydo's on drops as well. My solution was going to be clamp split clamp hydro levers onto the centre of my drop bars just like the cx top lever thingies. Run a cable from my STi brakes under the tpe, through a stop and pull the brake lever near the pivot point. Seen this once on the web but can't fnd the pic now. Yet to find split clamp hydros, that don't have the hoses running in line with the vers and at a decent price.
I did wonder if Magura rim brake levers which are less bulky, would power a hydro disc but doubt it.
Come on, we will solve this before Shimano do.

Matt hope and formula have split clamp and you can adjust angle of hose. I thought of just your method with cable stops from sjs but haven't gotten around to it just yet as lost my mojo lol

Sorry OP but I bet if you do make this then it won't be in your bike for more than a few weeks, it's gonna be really uncomfortableif you sit on the tops and I imagine you'll have issues with the clamp, it will also look pish!

epicyclo - Member
I'm using BB7s on 2 dropbar bikes. The curves introduced by making the cable go through tight curves to conform to the bar reduces the brake performance.

I'm using BB5s and 7s on 3 drop-bar bikes, gear cable inners work better.

Not sure I understand your comment.
Over-biked? How did you come to that conclusion?.

Um, cos that's what the OP said.

This build isn't out to win any awards for good looks, I just want a build that reflects my riding which is long and only mildly technical xc rides. I felt totally overbiked with an MTB.

Some people just favour the feel of hydros - me for instance

and whats wrong with having a play and a bit of 'invention'

You could reshape/use an alternative lever blade to get the lever where it is required if the angle of the body throws it out at a weird angle

I'm not concerned about riding on the hoods, with my crosser I tend to ride on the tops and drops. Midges don't lend themselves well to riding on the hoods anyway
It may look a bit gash, but I'll be taping up to and past the levers.

As I said I've nothing against BB7s, but I'd much rather have hydros if this'll work.

I took them the the engineers, and he can remove most of the clamp and fit a strap type clamp using shim metal. That means it'll sit hidden under the tape. And it could be mounted on the more awkward sections of the bar.

TJ seen the little breather hole, that'll still be free to work the angle I'll be setting them at isn't far off the flat.

You could probably bodge a hood over the reservoir if you cared 😉

I've done it. Got some old Hayes 9 carbon brakes with split clamps, ground out the clamps to fit the bars and fitted them to the bike with long enough hoses (as on old, pre-aero-lever road bikes) that if there were any air bubbles in there, they'd stay above the reservior and it didn't cause any problems.

The position of the levers left no usable hood area so I built them up with Sugru and taped over the top of them. Looks pretty shonky but they work and it's not given me any problems in the little use it's had so far.

Sometimes messing about with stuff is the best way to find out and I got to use a brilliant little air powered grinding tool I borrowed from my motor mechanic mate.

I'd second the Magura HS66/77 if you can find some. I've got a set of HS66 on my tandem because I hated the amount of cable stretch on the back brake. They're really comfortable to ride on - dunno what I'd do if I broke one now. I'm just using the normal maggy rim brakes though, so can't comment on compatibility with disc calipers.

Failing that, there was/is somebody making remote master cylinders that mounted on the stem and were controlled by normal levers with a short run of cable. They were quite tidy and apparently worked well.

Rob

Seems quite a few folk are doing it already. Like I said not pretty, but you're going to get great braking in the drops.
Been looking at this....
[img] [/img]

I've reamed out the clamps on Magura HS 33 (mtb rim brakes) to fit road bars. You need a spacer / washer that will fit in the clamp slot and then tighten up the clamp screw with it in place (so the existing bar hole is held in a prefect circle and the clamp / slot is done up tight so things don't flex or judder).

I then used an expanding reamer by hand to gradually enlarge the hole. Looks like there is plenty of meat to go at in your levers so it should work OK.

Forget about the old magura road levers - they are a completely different design (closed volume of oil) and will not work with most hydro discs (with expansion reservoir). Google it and you'll find Maguras views on (not) trying this. They are also not made anymore and rarer than a rare thing - the resurgence in cross bikes means they go for crazy money when they occasionally appear on Ebay.

cynic-al - Member
...I'm using BB5s and 7s on 3 drop-bar bikes, gear cable inners work better.

I thought of that but was too chicken to try it 🙂 It's encouraging to know it works ok - what life are you getting out of the inners?

As for the HS66 & 77 levers, adapting them to a disc isn't impossible, but a disc calliper would likely have a far higher heat buildup than the rim brakes.

I suspect a dropbar hydraulic lever isn't far away now that discs are ok on cx bikes.

doof_doof - Member
'Over-biked?...
Um, cos that's what the OP said.

Ah, sorry doof_doof, thought you were referring to my post and was puzzled.