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Can someone point me in the right direction. I attempted my first bake bleed today and got more than I bargained for. Following the instructions After removing the pads and inserting the bleeding block I loaded the first syringe with fluid and purged the bubbles and attached it to the caliper. I then attached the second syringe to the lever and tied the lever back with a toe strap. I then drew the air out of the caliper, removed the toe strap and drew the fluid through the hose. capped off the lower syringe and purged the bubbles from the lever reservoir and then removed the syringes and screwed the caps back in. I then removed the bleed block, inserted brand new pads and popped the wheel back on.
Now the lever goes all the way to the handlebar without applying any pressure to the rotor, The question is what have I done wrong?
Any Ideas
Ta
Exactly the same result as when I first did them following the instructions to the letter...the one thing they don't mention is to push as much fluid into the system before removing the syringe
I have no idea why Avid have to have this complicated method of bleeding brakes (sorry, I know this isn't going to help you much) but bleeding Hope or especially Shimano is just so much easier.
Just what is all that malarkey with the syringes all about?
SLX, open the bleed nipple, fluid in the reservoir, air and fluid out of the caliper. Job done, absolutely no messing around. Go ride.
Assuming you pushed the pistons in to the caliper, you just need to pump the lever a few times to pump the pistons out again.
Did you push fluid through the hoses a few times? I might be that you introduced some air somewhere and haven't pushed it through again.
capped off the lower syringe and purged the bubbles from the lever reservoir and then removed the syringes
and IIRC you don't want to create a vacuum at the lever syringe as you'll pull air in past the reservoir seal. Rotate the lever to different angles and give it a few pumps to make sure there are no bubbles in the lever.
I have no issues bleeding mine, where they're pressure bled with the syringes from the caliper upwards (there's a good description of the process on Bikeradar.com). The only thing to watch out for is when you release the held back lever, do it slowly as you inject more fluid at the caliper, if you just snap release it it stuffs up the whole bleed.
Before you removed the syringes you needed to pump the lever, forcing the air to the master cylinder, so you can draw it out with the top syringe.
Did you hold the lever done and whilst pushing the caliper syringe oil into the system, slowly release the lever so that the oil enters the master cylinder?
push lots of fluid through first to flush the system. As you apply pressure to one syringe it should force the fluid into the other. You can just bleed up the way by pushing from the lower one for a wuick bleed. Purge lever /caliper but there should not be any air in there anyway.
once you sus it you can do them much quicker than the fluid bleed nipple method. Better to have caliper horizontal when bleeding.
Bleeding my Juicy 5s was pretty much the most infuriating bike-related experience so far!
I don't know why people have such problems bleeding Avids.
I bled my Elixirs following the instructions in the bleed kit and it was a doddle ๐
I have 3 sets of Juicy brakes and have had the same problem as you once before.
I found there was a small amout of air trapped at the far side of the brake caliper, when doing the first part of the bleed, really push and pull on the saringe for a good couple of minutes, there is air in there somewhere and you need to get it out.
Tapping on the claiper with the handle of a screwdiver can help to move the bubbles.
Making sure the bottom saringe has no air in it proir to the bleed is essential.
Good news is when you get the air out the break will be great again.
Good luck.
....is a pain in the rear.
Make sure that the lever reach adjust is dialled right out before you start. Adjusted by a small allen key on the inside of the level.
Bled my juicy's for the first time last week and have to say I found it a lot easier than it sounded when reading the instructions. I find it a lot less faffing to do it with the wheels on, as long as youre careful and wrap some paper towel around the caliper there's no problem.
I had similar to you but I found that once the caliper syringe is removed and the lever one has been purged of air, just before you lock the lever syringe off push down on the syringe whilst locking it. that way the lever is full of fluid. that worked a treat for me.
Thanks for all the advice, going to try the elixir bleed instructions tonight. They seam to have some extra steps like letting the lever out slowly while pushing fluid through etc.
Cheers
Netdonkey, it sounds like your bleed is a total failure... I find it's hard to get it perfect but the only time I had a total failure like that was when the hose on my bleed kit had a little puncture in it. I was basically pulling air into the system instead of bleeding it! The brake fluid had affected the hose and meant it had cracked.
The video up there is helpful if you can listen to that guy without wanting to hurt him. There is a less annoying guy doing one for Elixrs somewhere, probably linked to from the Avid site.
The instructions are pretty good I find and the only thing I do in addition is tapping the level and caliper to help the air out. They are a pain to get perfect though.
I don't know why people have such problems bleeding Avids.
+1 - 10 min job tops.
The avid guides on you tube are far better than the manual imo. Never had any issues in years of using the video guides
Yeah, view the Youtube Avid guide a few times, makes some notes on the key points and off you go. Unless there's a problem with the brakes, it should be an easy process & doesn't take that long to do. Keeping things clean & tidy takes just as much time as the actual bleed procedure.
Just take your time & follow the steps.......erm, simples!
This looks like the most comprehensive so far:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-bleeding-avid-brakes-2010.html