[Closed] Bike weight....How much difference does it really make?

If you're not racing, or having to lift/carry your bike much then it's very much debatable.

Last time I chased this one it was working out around £1 per gramme saved.

STW logic - it will make no difference, buy the heaviest things possible.

Real world logic - it does make a difference, think power to weight ratio, also better handling.

The only way to go quicker is to lose weight, be it bike or you (if you lose weight its free!!!), or increase fitness. If going fast doesn't matter to you, then don't worry about it.

Can't hurt to go lighter if you can afford it, whilst maintining suitable strength (from the old "choose 3" thing)

Best way to save weight though is have a dump before you go out...

What druidh said.

If you are racing then look at you loosing weight first as it's cheaper.

doesn't matter
does matter
have a shit

Perfect storm. Well done everyone

thread closed, I feel ??

It depends, best place to lose weight is from your body, generally if you're 2st overweight then saving 300g on some wheels doesn't really matter
I know I'm a chunky monkey, so spending £1/g is just daft to me

I don't feel that much difference as far as climbing/acceleration/effort goes- tyres, suspension setup, geometry etc have a much bigger effect. But I do like how a light bike rides- it's just easier to shift it around. (some folks like the rockplough feel of a big heavy bike otoh)

Do you race yes/no.
Will it make it more fun yes/no.

If the answers are yes ,do it.
If the answers are no ,spend the money on pie.

[quotethink power to weight ratio

OK - Assuming 80kg rider, the 2kg difference in weight between a 14.5kg bike and a 12.5kg bike equates to a 2.1% decrease in weight of bike and rider. This is not likely to make a meaningful difference in reality.

However, things like lighter wheels/tyres might as they spin up faster.

Andy

Diminishing returns really. For the money, get some light, stong wheels - you will really feel the difference. Superstar Components have some Stans Ultralight pre-built wheels for £299 at 1520g, bargain, if they work. I don't know what racing has to do with it.

In order to save weight, you took it from places that don't make too much difference.

As said above, wheels are the area where weight can be drastically felt.

EX729 rims are really heavy and surplus to anyone that isn't jumping off tall buildings. Some en521s would have been far more appropriate, but still overkill for many. From your bikes, i imagine you mainly ride xc/trails?

Wheels/tyres/tubes is where you want to save weight, weight saving in other areas doesn't have too big of an impact and is just a luxury if you can afford it.

Try this: singlespeed the C456 and get some lightish wheels and tyres and a rigid carbon fork. You should be able to do that for around £200 if you keep an eye on the classifieds.

You'll definitely notice a difference. If you don't like it you can go back to the way it was and flog the stuff on.

I guess it depends on how much difference you feel losing the first 2kg has made.

But here's a question: if you get a lighter bike, pedalling will be easier, so won't you then put on that same amount of weight yourself?!

For hills at least it comes down to power to weight ratio. It's easier to lose weight than it is to gain power and the easiest way to lose weight is to buy a lighter bike 😉

Having said that though, it's not that much as a percentage of your overall weight. You can look at an online power calculator to see how much difference a 3KG loss would make: http://bikecalculator.com/veloUS.html

Very roughly going up something like Ditchling Beacon (1.2km, 10% grade, 300 watts, 85kg rider+kit, 12.5KG bike vs same with 9.5KG bike)
The bike that's 3KG lighter would get you up there in: 7m24s vs 07m37s for the heavier one.

Coincidentally, the last bike I built up is 3KG lighter than the previous one. On paper it's a [b]bit[/b] faster but to ride it feels [b]MUCH[/b] faster.

deanfbm - Member

EX729 rims are really heavy and surplus to anyone that isn't jumping off tall buildings.

I have managed to get my Ex729s out of shape. I am quite proud.

I generally buy the lightest component I can if I'm in the market for something. My bike is a sensible build of parts that are a compromise between weight and usage.

My forks are about to give up I think so I'm buying a dual air fork instead of the single air I have now.

This logic had my Trek hardtail at about 10 kg in its lightweight XC form.

I took my boggo rockhopper down to under 22lbs. It did feel a lot lighter, more responsive, and faster. However, this may be down just as much to upgrading to better as well as just lighter parts.

Well i'll not be loosing any weight, worked hard in the gym getting to my current condition (from 12stone to 17 stone, and now a lean 14.5 stone). Also not a racer obviously, although i want to enter somthing this year, was going to do the CRC event in april but it clashed with other plans in the end, so might do the marshbrook one, and maybe the BHF hoop valley event.

Been contemplating getting a new set of wheels, as i know they are pretty heavy and the XT rear hub has about had it (although repairable). At the time of buying these i didn't know anything about bikes at all, asked the guy at the bike shop i brought the commencal from for a solid wheel that wasn't going to buckle easily.....guess i got what i asked for and more.

Lighter bikes (generaly) feel better, but it's fitness/your weight that matters uphill, and skill/balls/fitness downhill, a good bike will buy you some time round a track, a light bike will buy you seconds at most.

My usualy rules of thumb are

1) Will it increace performance noticably in some other way -
coil shocks, dual ply tyres on a uplift of a rocky track, reverb seatpost etc fall into this category.

Once the bikes working how I want it move onto step 2.

2) Can I save weight without comprimising anything else (strength, stiffness, money), tubeless was a good example (200g tube replaced by 50g of sealent and less need for dual ply tyres which would save 400g+ on each tyre!) and costs £20 for the sealent and £3 for electrical tape to seal the rim. At this stage I'd also raid the spares box for any bits I could swap to lower the weight.

3) Throw money at replacing components with lighter equivelents with minimal comprimises. A lighter stem, grips, rotors, pedals, saddle, cranks, wheels,maybe even Ti bolts.

4) The opposite of stage 1. Removing or replacing bits with lighter bits to save weight with comprimises. Stuff like ditching the Reverb, going 1x10, SPD's (if they're not already your preferance, but SPD + XC shoes do weigh a lot less than flats + skate shoes), an uncomfortable 100g saddle, too light wheels, foam grips, lightweight rotors. There's still big chunks of weight to be saved here, but they're all a comprimise.

I did the Bristol Bike fest on my Transition Covert, then did it on a lightweigh hardtail race bike. I was 3 mins a lap faster, thats 10%.

I noticed a massive difference between jumping a 28lb trail bike (effortless) and a 34lb one.

Lighter bikes don't seem to lose as much energy cornering in tight singletrack either.

However there is a trade off in stability when going lighter, I reckon the sweet spot is about 29/30lb which is what I aim to get my nukeproof mega to.

Nah, makes no difference whatsoever - its just my fitness that enables me to cover the distances/climbing I do 😉

skywalker - Member

The [b]only [/b]way to go quicker is to lose weight, be it bike or you (if you lose weight its free!!!), or increase fitness.

That's two ways to go quicker. There are more than two.

28lbs is fine for a trail bike. The more you ride it, the lighter it will seem.

IME you feel like you're going faster if you lose weight:

a) from your wheels
b) from your ass

The only way to go quicker is to lose weight, be it bike or you (if you lose weight its free!!!), or increase fitness.

That's two ways to go quicker

[quoteNah, makes no difference whatsoever - its just my fitness that enables me to cover the distances/climbing I do

Ha!

I have a lightish bike and a heavy one - the beast is betterer. - both hard tail.

Couldnt really care less how quick I go up hills, whatever speed I manage seems reasonable verses a selection of other people I ride with. So not bothered about weight there. Plus, the heavier forks I've just fitted seem to help with climbing in other ways, it isnt just about weight.

Making my bike lighter isnt going to have much of an effect on the downwards speed, it might even be slower and stuff might break (and be more expensive to replace).

But, it must take more energy to pedal a heavier bike, so maybe I could ride for longer and be less tired during that final hour on a weenier bike?

I dont race, most of my rides are around the 25k to 35k mark, so spending £1 per g would just be stupid. I end most days with at least 1/2 litre of water or more in my bag, that's 500g+ or £500 - nuts!

im the opposite to most people every new bit i put on my bike is heavyer,

went from an aluminium frame to steel, swaped light now bent wheels to dh wheels, and chain rings and cassets are heavy steel jobs.

Its a slog taking her up hill but so much more fun on the downs as I don't worry about anything breaking and me hitting the dirt.

I think the science tends to understate the benefit of bike weight , especially mountain biking. Even through one pedal stroke no one applies uniform power so there are minor acceleration / decelerations every single pedal stroke which mount up over long days out

No doubt a lighter bike (and lighter wheels in particular) makes a difference

That said it is one of many factors. Your fitness, your weight, bike stiffness, suspension action & tyre rolling resistance are all obvious other factors

I have a 35 lb bike and a 26 lb bike. Not scientific but a couple of years ago I did timed full out climbs (1 week apart) to the top of Cwm Carn. 26 mins on the 'light' bike 34 mins on the 'heavy' bike. Weight was just one factor of course.

All things being equal a lighter bike will climb & accelerate faster and will be easier to move around and slow down.

That of course does not make lighter better. Depends on your riding priorities.

Oh and to the’ have a dump’ crew. Since when did having a lighter bike stop you having a dump? Surely you can do both?

28.5 lb hardtail (Rock Lobster 853 with XT and Thomson)

28.5 lb full suss (5 with XT and Thomson)

both feel very similar 😆

20 lb Kona Jake the Snake with 105
16 lb Giant Defy with Ultegra

night and day....

so I think noticing the weight difference is very dependant on what surfaces you are riding. Lumpy off road and I don't notice it anywhere near as much as 'controlled environment' such as smoother stuff or road

Since when did having a lighter bike stop you having a dump? Surely you can do both?

Those who worry about the weight are all anally retentive and therefore can't take a dump. 🙂

Climbing it makes the difference, to be honest though if you weigh 16stone is a few grams on the bike going to matter? My brother in laws full sus is about 23lbs mine about 25lbs. I weight 10stone and he weighs 15stone...

My FS is about 27lbs, myHT about 28, but that pound feels a lot heavier than it ought to. Its not just about speed, it is about getting tired. I find the heavier the bike , the shorter distance I can go before feeling knackered, especially if there is a lot of push/carry

Those who worry about the weight are all anally retentive and therefore can't take a dump.

Fair point 🙂

I started a similar thread a while ago.
I have a silly light race bike at less than 17 pounds. (Got accused of being a trol when I mentioned it that time).
As far as I’m concerned light bikes are faster, climbing is much easier on a light bike. Beware though a light bike doesn’t go down nearly as fast or as planted.
So I think there is a happy medium.

24lb Stumpjumper Hardtail
26lb Stumjumper FSR S-works
28lb Santa Cruz Blur LT

Guess which one is the most fun to ride!

My relatively heavy Blur LT is much nicer to ride than the hardtail which I've still got and the Stumpjumper Full sus it replaced.

It also climbs better than the FSR on any terrain and is better than the hardtail on anything other than smooth fireroad. Going down the Blur is light years ahead of the hardtail and has the edge over the FSR too.

Weight is not everything.

But if I could lose 4lbs off my BlurLT without spoiling it or breaking the bank I would!

I would focus on getting the bike riding how you want it to , rather focus on reducing weight and end up with something you don't want to ride.

Depends on the type of riding you are doing.

I'm pretty light physically and I like climbing and covering flat ground quickly so think weight makes a big difference.

The law of diminishing returns definitely applies in terms of money spent to benefit and some of the lighter stuff isn't as robust.

Tyres / tubes / tubeless are a good place to start and wheels too as they involve spinning weight as well as dead weight.

Depends on the type of riding you are doing.

Of course, goes without saying.

I did the Bristol Bike fest on my Transition Covert, then did it on a lightweigh hardtail race bike. I was 3 mins a lap faster, thats 10%.

Blimey, somebody on STW putting statistics to use in an argument! That's not normal!

In seriousness though, I'm not surprised. People will often say they prefer the way their heavier bike rides, or how they rode 2 bikes back to back and didn't notice the heavier one being any slower. But put a clock on it, and you'll almost certainly be slower on the heavier one. Probably not 10%, that's a little extreme, but World Cup XC racers don't race around on 28lb steel hardtails with a 140mm fork, 750mm wide bars and 2.35" Maxxis tyres because of the slight advantage they give on the downs. Much more time is gained in the up and along, so they ride stupidly light (like 18lb light) carbon bikes with wheels and tyres that are pretty much throwaway if anything goes wrong with them.

£1 per gram is very expensive.

Turds aren't heavy.

Otherwise...good to see some common sense and realism getting through on here.

In seriousness though, I'm not surprised. People will often say they prefer the way their heavier bike rides, or how they rode 2 bikes back to back and didn't notice the heavier one being any slower. But put a clock on it, and you'll almost certainly be slower on the heavier one. Probably not 10%, that's a little extreme, but World Cup XC racers don't race around on 28lb steel hardtails with a 140mm fork, 750mm wide bars and 2.35" Maxxis tyres because of the slight advantage they give on the downs. Much more time is gained in the up and along, so they ride stupidly light (like 18lb light) carbon bikes with wheels and tyres that are pretty much throwaway if anything goes wrong with them.

Am I reading this right? An intelligent person on STW.

Surely not!

£1 per gram is very expensive.

I know a lot of people who'd argue otherwise... In fact, they'd bite your arm off if you can get it for them at that price! 😉

Turds aren't heavy.

Speak for yourself! But then the amount I eat, you'd not be surprised...

Am I reading this right? An intelligent person on STW.
Surely not!

Whoah, hold your horses there! Let's not get carried away with ourselves shall we... I know I've got an engineering degree (and doing another degree part time now), and a smattering of common sense, but I'd hate to think what has become if I'm "the intelligent one"! 😕

To try and add to the sensibleness of the thread.

I'm a bit of a bloater but still OK fitness-wise.

Never ridden a bike (all HT) that weighs much less than 30lb - current BFe is about 30.5lb depending on what saddle I've decided to use that week.

I try to buy stuff with a balance of weight/cost/strength (but often err on the side of the cost/strength 2 out of 3). Exception to this are my wheels which are Azonic Outlaws which seem to weigh a ton but are pretty tanklike.

With my physical build and my bike I've learned to sit and winch patiently on anything heading upwards (still overtake a few people on fireroads though) knowing that I can go as fast and fun as I dare on the flat and downhill without breaking anything but bones.

As long as you aren't an XC racer and are having fun then who cares what it weighs?

slainte 💡 rob

Of course racers are going to ride the lightest bikes.

Doesn't change the maths tho...