[Closed] Bike light......XP-Gs arrived today...

I like it! 8)

Looks excellent 8), what sort of power is it?

Hi.

KKF, thanks.

As these are the XP-G [b]R3[/b] I should be seeing in excess of 1800 lumens tonight.

Got to go out for a bit now. Back later. 🙂

Ta

L.

Hi.

Just been to an area I've not visited before, but I managed to get some shots. The main Tree in the light is approximately 40 metres from the light.

Used my currently road-bound MTB.

From an approximation of eye position.

[img] [/img]

Away from the bike.

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

Illumination just forward of the front wheel.

[img] [/img]

The Ring.

[img] [/img]

Camera was set to:
F4
6 seconds
WB; DAY

Phew !.

L.

Really good work there mate.

I never ever thought I would say this about a bike light, but here goes......... That is miles too bright.

How long can it run for on full like that with a single battery charge?

Dimmadan.

The light is configurable to produce lower outputs, if required. I prefer to set my lights to have just a hi and low setting. But even these can be adjusted for lower brightness levels.

I've not done a full run with these LEDs as they only arrived this morning. I'm using a 14v 4.4Ah Battery from Smudge. I'm out tomorrow night starting from Brandon Country Park, so will see how long I get from the light then, hopefully. But expect 2.5 hours + on hi (conservative estimate)

Were I to use one of Smudge's latest batteries, which I believe pack a few more Ah, then I'd expect an even longer run time.

Cheers.

L.

Top marks mate, wish i had the time and knowledge to do the same as would love to give it a go.

Well done as I looks and sounds like it may perform perfectly.

Next test is the rain test 😆

Dimmadan.

Yes, preventing water ingress has been a major pre-occupation for me with this light.

What you see here is a prototype. A one-off produced by Mr Hunt, master of metal. A great guy with a beaver mill and a bridgeport lathe amongst the other items in his Garage !.

So, when I designed this one light. I did so with the type of machinery available, in mind. Hence the simpler clamping ring, for this light only.

I intend to make a small run of these lights for me and some friends. The new version will have a different lens assembly incorporating waterproofing measures.

The rear of the light uses nut-fixed, IP rated switches and other hardware which will resist complete submersion.

So I am expecting total water proof performance. That is one of my main goals.

I am also working on a complete water proofing of the battery too, amongst other things...

🙂

L.

Holy Shit. Good work mate.

Sounds good, I will stay in touch as I fancy one

The light looks fantastic.....

However - either your photography skills are a little lacking, or it's a tad too bright.

Dimmadan.

I'm grateful for your remarks. I've still got to finalize the new version. Everything is in place, parts are ordered, etc. I'm almost there. I mau be able to squeeze a few more in, but it wouldn't be available as soon as another light being shown on this forum.

I'm hoping to have my light on my bars during November.

Lowey.

Thanks. Its taken around two months to get this far, loads of hours on the CAD and dealing with suppliers. Its been a major effort.

🙂

L.

what is your price?

TAFKAS.

Yeah, I was thinking that myself tonight. I set the camera to the settings I've seen posted on here in another thread, which I believe to be the "unwritten" [i]standard[/i] between us light builders for night shots.

However, in mitigation, I must point out that these LEDs are like nothing I've photographed before.

Using Canon PowerShot S80, set to the figures mentioned above.

Oh, except for "The Ring" shot. I had to change settings to get a side/birds eye view of the light-head, which didn't just show a bright white blur.

L.

RH.

This was originally a project for me a few friends.

I have yet to finish and reveal the latest and [b]improved[/b] version. But wanted to post my progress so far.

My presence in the sitting room has just been requested, so I'll have to go now.

Mail me if you wish.

Thanks.

Luminous.

erm...............wow

Where will the LED light wars end? My set up of home mede lights with a trifling 1850 lumens between them ( theoretical) is really not going to cut the mustard no more.

I think 6x MCEs must be the future - thats 5400 lumen thoretical 🙂 Mind you need half a power station to power them

Imagine having two, one either side of the stem FFS !!!!!!!!!!!! 😆 😆 😯

Can I see the leaves frying? 😯

madness lol looks good. I find riding with my hope vision four on setting three like riding in daylight. If you can somehow fully waterproof it you will make some money in the diving crowd good luck

TJ.

Yeah, I don't suppose we'll ever gain a consensus on what is sufficient to ride with. But its interesting making lights.

I Suppose as we see those such as the clever bods at cree design LEDs with ever greater outputs, that we may just use fewer LEDs per light in the future.

KKF.
Yeah, that would be insane, I hadn't considered running two on one bike. I might find no one wanted to ride with me then 😆

Mick.

Thanks. Yes, pressure waterproofing is a distant goal. But as my neighbour is a diver, I've got a tester on my door step. So thats a start. But got to get this one finished first.
🙂

L.

Thats just awsome!! Great work L. Glad to see it up and running, and lets be honest, giving out more light than is really needed!!

Liked the look of the housing when you'd just done that. Hope the water testing goes well and keep us posted as to how you go on.

Well done. Skippy

We make stuff that monitors stuff at the bottom of the sea, if you need any help sealing it, give me a shout.

Skiprat.

Thanks. Yeah, it'll be on-trail testing tonight, with perhaps the odd stop for a quick pic.

When the final version housings are available, then water testing will commence.

I will certainly be happy to post updates.

Cheers

L.

Wors.

Thats a very useful offer and one I may well be interested in at a later date.

Many Thanks.

🙂

L.

I completed my first ride with the light last night.

The light performed faultlessly. After 90 mins of riding, switching the output between hi and low, the medium voltage warning light still hadn't come on, so I've still no idea how long I can get out of the light using a 4.4Ah battery, other than to say that its going to be usefully longer than 2.5 hours.

Think I may have to order a smaller battery, just to get an idea of run time from one of those.

Also, I will have to do some rides on hi only to ascertain the full power run times.

Incidentally, one of our party was using, only for the second time, his DX magicshine light. However, it failed and so I had to lend him my helmet light. An old single LED XR-E giving about 230 lumens at 1A. I was quite impressed with this little light. Using an optic I have modified, it pushed out onto the trail, every one of those 230 lumens and he did the whole ride with that one light on his bars.

Anyway, thats the first ride results and they are very encouraging.

Cheers

🙂

L.

Sounds promising. If you want a tester that rides 3 nights a week for 2 hours + each ride then let me know.

Do you know what the Vf of the triple xpg is luminous??

Dimmadan.

Thanks. All offers of help are gratefuly received and not forgotten.
🙂

Kinda666.

Not sure what you're asking there, are you referring to a cutter item ?.
If so, then I would have thought that cutter would provide that info.
I believe they sell a triple LED on a 20mm round MCPCB.

All I know is that the data released by Cree indicates a Vf of around 3.4v PER LED.
Why do you ask ?.

Ta

😀

L.

EDIT: Really grateful to all for the posts and the interest. Perhaps I should make a few more [i]available[/i]

😉

L.

Hi luminous, can't see pics on my work pc and couldn't remember what set up you had, thought it was triple xpgs! I'm pretty sure my Xpe's were pushing out around 9.6Vf and need some headroom for the bflex to work, as i'm using an 11.1v li-ion pack its quite tight! (have a 14.8v pack too but obviously heavier than the 3 cell pack) Thought you may have measuerd the forward voltage thats all!

Kinda666.

Ok, no worries. I've seen a cree document displaying a graph showing an XP-G LED to have around 3.4v Vf at 1A.

I feel the layout of the LEDs as I have them in my light is useful, as from the pics earlier in this thread (which unfortunately you can't view), I still get light thrown down right in front of the wheel, without any need for a "liberator" type feature. Which is a good thing as it would be diificult to include a second, downward aperture for light, in a housing design such as mine.

L.

Just got home and now i remember the light! 😳

What diameter are your housings?? Quite fancy the 7up cutter kit!

Kinda666.

Thanks for the interest.

I think I can see where you're going with this.

If I'm correct, then I've already been there... 😀

Mail me if you wish.

Cheers.

L.

At work till 6pm so i'll mail you when i get in! 😀

Having seen the pics, and the scorched earth, why not make a smaller lightweight double ?
We already have the landing light on offer from the other LED developer . Why not go down a slightly different route. I think many riders like having a bar mount and a lid mount, you get redundancy if one fails, you can see where you look , as opposed to where you bars are pointing . This will help to spot the axeman in the treeline quicker .
Then you could run 600 lumen 's from the bars and 600 lumens from your helmet. 1200 lumen is enough , you get exteneded run times, less heat produced , and therefore less heat to loose, less weight, less cost (4 LED units , not 6 and less Ah's rqd)
I appreciate that you have not intended to sell to the mass market, but ifthe market is there for a sexy D cell sized light , then why not make a few ££ , pays for holidays .
HAving typed all that, then why not use 2 x MTE p7's , although they are a little large and weighty , 2 P7 without teh internal battery and proper mounts , and without having to scroll throughthe flash flash modes would be a superb set up.

STM.

Thats an interesting post. Thanks.

I am an Engineer by profession, I did approach Chris with an offer to work with him. I had already given him some useful advice, some of which he used to produce the Trout light, as it is today. So in some small way, the Trout light people are buying from Chris at the moment, has some of my input in it.
Anyway, Chris wanted to continue working on his own and that was fair enough. Although there seems to be one or two more bods helping him now.

Anyway, I still felt I had something to give, so I have worked to produce a bar light, as I feel it offers something that one does not get from the Trout light.
Myself and the people I am building this for, wanted something different to the Trout light.

So here I am with a bar light that I believe to be postively different to the Trout light, a light that I think ticks alot of the correct boxes. Quick release, excellent connector tech, battery status light, waterproof (yet to be tested), stored easily and neatly in your pocket or backpack, no awkward clamps or cables dangling from the light and adjustable for both pitch and yaw.

If money and resource were no object, then the light would be even better, but I have to keep my feet, and the budget, on the ground 🙂

The final design does look better than this light and it has [i]potential[/i].

Perhaps we need an agreement on new camera settings for night pics of these LEDs.

As I sit here, I am progressing my design of my all-in-one light, on the CAD. The AI1. It should be both bar or helmet mount.

Thanks for your thoughts on the subject.

🙂

L.

Hi, saw your light in the car park at brandon when you returned from a ride thursday night, it was very impressive and i have now been inspired into looking into making my own design. I have a toolmaking / manufacturing background so, making the caseing and soldering operations are simple.......but I am lacking in knowledge of what electronics are required to drive LED's. Could you give me any advice as to what electronics I would require to power 4 of the XPG led's please? Hopefully I will see you again at Brandon so we can chat more about lighting.

RJ.

Hi. Welcome, and thanks for joining "the fray" here on STW. Good luck 🙂

Good to meet you and the rest of your party , the other night.

Theres loads of info around on homemade lights, but if you wish to mail me, then perhaps I can help you.

Cheers.

😉

In the meanwhile, I have received a quote for a larger run of machined housings and I could make more of the new version available, should enough interest materialize.

This light has features such as connector tech from the Aerospace and Marine sector, the lens is supplied from a world leading company specializing is display plastics and plastic treatments. The lens has an optical efficency into the 90s%.

The design of this light is compact, quick release, with no awkward bar-clamps or cables dangling from it.

It is adjustable for both up-down AND Left-Right positioning and doesn't clutter the stem area, which is useful if you run something like a Garmin Edge on the stem, as I do.

RJ.
You are the first person here, on STW, to actually see this light.

🙂

L.

Luminous - Member

TJ.

Yeah, I don't suppose we'll ever gain a consensus on what is sufficient to ride with. But its interesting making lights

Yup - I have 7 diffent led lamps I have made. From long run time 150 l ones to 900 l ones.

How much would you sell a complete light battery set-up for?

TJ.

Hey, hi. Yes, I have amassed a [i]collection[/i] of old school HB lights too. I'll never sell them and they are all still upto the job. Cool 🙂

In fact, some of them may become "loaners". One of my group, the other night, was out with his new DX magicshine. But it failed 5 mins into the ride, so I'm going to lend him one of my triple XR-E Q5s at 675 lumens, until he gets his Magicshine back.

WD.

Thanks for your post, however, thats a loaded Question...

Judging by whats occured elsewhere on this forum, it may be better if you mail me.

Ta

L.

H-mmm, sorry!!!!!!!

YGM

hello Lumnous
i have sent you an email for more details about youre light, is it waterproof especially sal****er proof?
ta
neil

Are you able to give any more details on the optics? Wondering whether to go for an XP-G with my next build, but no good if I can't get an optic which works well with lots of throw (still really like the original Cree XR-E optic which I'm currently using). Given the lower surface brightness of the XP-G there is the worry that I might actually get less throw, but more spill, which wouldn't actually be that useful given I already feel I have plenty of spill.

BB.

Hi 🙂

AR.

Yes, you aren't the first person I've come across who has felt that the current XP-G LED and optic combo could do with a little more "throw".
Perhaps a few of us need to drop a line to Carlco asking for a 10 or even an 8 degree optic.

But, with 6 LEDs, I get what I feel is a good pattern for ST. I think it helps that I "bunch" my LEDs into 2 rows of three

and it wouldn't be impossible to shoe-horn an extra LED into the head space available.

But my "Super-7" light needs more work and I'm busy finishing the 6 LED light.

Personally I do like a good spot pattern for cycling ST and like you I have been pleased with my results using the star based XR-E.

Must be two years and more now since they came onto the homebrew scene.
And we thought that they were hot at 230 lumens per star ! 😀

In fact, Tuesday night I went on a 3 hour ride to gain a few figures for runs times with my 6 x XP-G light and I took along my Triple XR-E at 675 lumens, as back-up for when the battery ran out on the XP-G light.

While I was drifting along the dark country back roads I switched the triple on and was pleasantly surprized to find that actually, the triple provided a tighter spot at a greater distance.
But this was at the expense of much less spill.

So depending on your preferance, you may find that the current optics for the XP-G may not give the [b][u]ultra[/u][/b] spot pattern you might desire.

For all round light performance the XP-G light still has the edge, but my 675 lumen triple was a nice surprize.

I have plans to run tests on all types of stuff, but its getting the time.
I can only do so much in a day and the other XP-Gs (R5s) I've ordered still haven't arrived....
But then again, the first batch of drivers have all been bought so I'm having to wait in line for my little order to be filled 🙁

I still hope to have my light on my bars in November though 🙂

If I get time I may post a few pics of my triple XR-E, just for old-times-sake. 🙂

Thanks.

L.

Yes, you aren't the first person I've come across who has felt that the current XP-G LED and optic combo could do with a little more "throw".
Perhaps a few of us need to drop a line to Carlco asking for a 10 or even an 8 degree optic.

In fact, Tuesday night I went on a 3 hour ride to gain a few figures for runs times with my 6 x XP-G light and I took along my Triple XR-E at 675 lumens, as back-up for when the battery ran out on the XP-G light.

While I was drifting along the dark country back roads I switched the triple on and was pleasantly surprized to find that actually, the triple provided a tighter spot at a greater distance.
But this was at the expense of much less spill.

AR.

I think that if the will is there, then a narrower optic for the XP-G may be made available.

But bare in mind that the XP-G is a very bright and very useable LED which provides some good features such as small physical size and "foot-print".

When I finish my light, me and my mates will all be using the XP-G LED light.

All I can tell you is that I'm using the Carlco optics from cutter. And for personal preferrence, I'm using 6 "narrow" optics in my light.

Its a bit like the "how much light do you need to ride with" debate.

Flood Vs Spill is just another area where I dont think you will ever find a clear consensus between all riders/users.

I prefer a narrow, spot type beam pattern when on the ST. But if you read the light review article in WMTB recently, then you might have noticed they were considering spill from the lights, as a way for some riders to gain an idea of speed.

Horse for Courses mate !

🙂

L.

But bare in mind that the XP-G is a very bright and very useable LED which provides some good features such as small physical size and "foot-print".

Interesting stuff as always - could you guys give me a quick league table on who make the most efficient LEDs? I looked into this last year and I think the XR-E was the best, but those darn boffins keep outdoing themselves 8)

Luminous
Do you know if the light unit works with Lumicycle Li-ion supplied battery packs? I'm not entirely sure, but I think their batteries leads are reversed or reverse polarity or something of that nature. I might be completely confused however. They are also over volted I believe.

so how does this xp-g compare to the P7?

AR.

In the end I don't think theres any good or bad, but just what works for some. If you're getting what you need from XR-Es then thats good.
I am a fan of the XR-E.
🙂

ooOOoo.
I haven't had time to look into it on a comparison basis.
As above, the XR-E is still a good LED, IMO, and if you sort a good optic, then you really can get what seems to be every last lumen off the chip and into the trail.

B.A.nana.
I haven't encountered any Lumicycle stuff for investigation, but IIRC I think I've seen some stuff on hear about them being reverse Polarity.

I tend to defer Battery Qs to our resident Battery Guru, Smudge.
Us lot on here are lucky to have him.
Search on here and you'll find him. You couldn't ask to deal with a better chap !.
🙂

Ta.

L.

SS92.

I think Trout has done some comparison work, as I think he was experimenting with the MCE before he discovered and brought us all the XP-E.

Another homebrew good guy, so I'm sure he'll lend his opinion, when he has a minute.

Try CPF also, he has posted some of his work there and you might find some pics too. CPF is a good place for more MCE info.

😀

Cheers.

L.

Yep Lumi stuff is arse about face polarity wise .

P7 4 dies on one board = 900 lumens
xpg R5 0ne die = 351 lumens
XRE R2 one die = 300 lumens some players tell you 😉

Trout.

Thanks for that.

I'm busy and I don't have anything to build-up yet, so goodness only knows how busy you must be, especially with that handy camera work of yours 😉
I've only just noticed the bar that you mounted your 3 in a row on.
What is that stuff ?.

Cheers

L.

Cheers L no not busy now as no drivers from George yet.

the Bar is some acrylic I got last year to have a go at machining some optics from but the results were not good , but it did give me a greater understanding of how they work ,

Yeah, where are all the drivers ?.

G told me that the first 60 were already spoken-for.

Naturally, after the take up of your lights, I had assumed that you had them. But you're saying you've only had a few.

So now I'm wondering where that first 60 have gone.

Anyway, doesn't matter. Hopefully.....drivers should be avaiable for order next week. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
😀

Ta

L.

EDIT: Ooo. Thats just showin off now (just seen your front view pic) 😀

Just thought I'd give a pre-view of how the ALL-IN-ONE is coming on.

Here is a screen-shot of the CAD

[img] [/img]

Cheers

L.

is it going to be folded?

Wors.

No, CNC'd

🙂

L.

£££££££

Wors.

Not essentially. Its the bought components that cost, when making lights these days.

Do you have a manufacturing backround ?.

L.

I'll have mine SLSed in titanium please 😀

Do you have a manufacturing backround

aye.

Well, this wouldn't be the 1st light housing to be CNC'd to create a cavity for the internals, but I thought I'd give my effort a bit of shape.

🙂

Ta.

L.

not knocking it, looks good. Just saying that to machine out the shape you want would take longer than a rectangular or cylindrical housing.

Sheet metal would look good though.

Can't really get a sense of scale in that pic - how many leds and roughly how long is it?

Yeah, bending is an option, but then there is the consideration of jigs and fixtures, surface condition, additional post-bending ops, etc. And all you get is a shell.

CNC, while having its draw backs, in this case provides some useful advantages.

As you will know, theres always more than one way to make something and sometimes the "apparent" cost can be deceptive/distracting.

L.

ooOOoo.

Yes, that is a disadvantage of CAD, in some cases.

Currently designed to carry 3 LEDs and some 18650 cells.

Obviously, lights that carry batteries within the housing will have to deal with the extra physical size. But if people want an all-in-one, then these are the limitations we face.

Unless you are a large manuf and you can get some battery supplier to construct a paricular shape and size battery just for your product.

L.

Also beware that cells inside the housing are going to need to be protected against any additional heat from the LEDs, but I'm sure you've thought of that already.

Looks like a nice design, certainly a CNC'd chunk would be the best way of getting everything in there including the board supports etc without the man hours.

CK.

"[i]way of getting everything in there including the board supports etc without the man hours[/i]"
You're not wrong there, thats what I was planning on.

Heat is constantly on the radar when designing these lights. 😉

L.

Thanks L, I get it now. That could be quite a nice setup for general riding.

Not too keen on the shape at the mo, but I assume it's for the ergonomics of hitting the buttons? One button either side? Don't know how far you've got with it but perhaps would benefit from a little sexing up if your gonna go CNC?!

ooOOoo.

Well, I saw another light containing a battery on here a little while ago.

All I'll say is that my light holds all it needs and has what I consider to be a nice enough shape.

Its [i]the[/i] button that everyone here says they like the "feel" of, on one side and [i]stuff[/i] on the other 😉

As before, the shape of a light using the 18650 cell, is always going to be compromised by/sacrificed on function. Sorry.

In the case of lights by people like me, I am confined to using what I can buy "off-the-shelf" and this has an impact on the outcome. What some perhaps don't realise is that those such as Trout and I, have to search the world for components we think we may be able to use. It aint easy.

I'd love the opportunity to fund a switch or a connector or a battery to suit my bespoke design. But I can't.

🙂

L.

Oh yes wouldn't we all! Quite frustrating when you get stuck in RS or Farnell with just bulky buttons and connectors....but what can you do.

Well I'll be interested to see what the 'stuff' is anyway 😛

Just read through from the start - some very interesting stuff and I'm enjoying reading about the developing light plans. Keep us posted!

AC.

Thank you.

🙂

In the meanwhile, the 6 LED bar light:
Material is ordered and production should commence as soon as the material is delivered. Drivers are en-route now, so all is just ticking along.

Cheers.

L.

🙂

[url] http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/bike-light-lightsetc [/url]

L.