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I've a new frame on the way and (maybe) some forks too.
They'll be boost 148x12 / 110x15 but I am coming from the old non boost 142x12 / 100x15 standard.
I don't really want to have to buy new wheels - what I've got is absolutely fine:
1 pair of roval traverse SL fattie carbon which I use for more XC type stuff
and
1 pair of superstar V6 hubs on Stans flow for rockier stuff
So, I've been looking at options to convert the wheels
Most of the adapter kits you can buy (including the dedicated Roval kit) seem to space both ends of the axle, and also include a disk spacer.
I can see a couple of issues with this.
Firstly, some (but not all) of the kits state 180mm rotor max. I presume this is due to the spacer weakening the interface between disk and hub.
Secondly, by shifting the cassette in a few MM at the rear I think this is going to result in a worse chainline or possibly mech adjustment issues.
I am sure in the past I've seen single one-sided spacers advertised which would solve these problems.
- On the back you'd put the single 6mm spacer on the non-drive-side, along with a 6mm disk spacer. (No problem with a smaller rotor on the back.)
- On the front you'd put a 10mm spacer on the drive side. No disk spacer needed - 203mm rotor is then still OK.
- Both wheels then need a re-dish (no biggie).
But...I can't seem to find one of these single sided types of kits anywhere.
Did I imagine it?
Can anyone point one out to me?
Otherwise I'd be really interested to hear from anyone running the double-sided boost adapters. Has it worked OK with a 203 rotor?
Has it knackered the chainline?
Does the mech have enough adjustment?
What adapter kit are you using?
Thanks!
I had a pair of spacers on my rear wheel to go from 142 to 148.
The chainline wasn't great, but it worked fine, although I needed to be careful about chainring choices (not much space between chain and chainstay).
However, after a year of riding around perfectly happily my freehub died. It's possible that it was just my super powerful legs (haha) or maybe the freehub had a design flaw, but I wonder if it was just that the spacers allowed a little more flex in the system which slowly but surely killed the freehub - after all you end up putting a load of torque through some tiny bits of metal - I'm amazed they work at all.
I've now got a boost rear hub. I no longer have to worry about losing the spacers on the ground and obviously I'm now also 4% more awesome.
I'd go with a spacer each side, it's only a few mm so really doesn't make a big difference
I ran the problem solvers adapter on the front of my soul for about 12 months with a 203 rotor, no problem at all. Have also tried to use the hope rear boost kit (3mm spacer each side) and couldn’t get the chain to run right as it absolutely maxed out the travel on the rear mech (11s XT). Sine swapped to the wolf tooth one and it’s been fine.
Cheeky plug, the front adapter is for sale in the classifieds.
I got the Specialized/Roval branded conversion kit for my Rovals, it spaced 6mm on non drive side, cassette stayed same position. Have a wolf tooth one on another bike, theirs work same way, and their DT one might fit your hubs also.
Oh the joys of a warranty frame replacement 😀 at least your dropper fits.
on the rear I run the two 3mm spacers on the disc side. Rotor is spaced out, (centre lock NOw 8 conversion), and there is plenty of adjustment on the caliper mount to take up the extra 3mm. I did this as there wasn't enough adjustment on the upper stop on the mech to get into 1st gear and the chainline wasn't good. It's a bit fiddly putting the axle in but it's rare that it comes out anyway. On the front I bought a 10mm x 15mm ID spacer off Ebay for a couple of pence as suggested by someone on the forum. In both case a small amount of re-dish is required.
I thought the chain line should, depending on what it was before, be better. 11speed chain line was shit, and moving to a boost chain set and wheel just relocated the problem. To the extent that many recommended running non boost cranksets on boost frames and I’d spaced out my chainring by 2mm on my non-boost frame
My rear wheel conversion (spline disc) was a “dub” from eBay Seems fine. 3mm each side.
Why not buy the pair of spacers and just run them both on the same side?
I have two spacer in the back wheel of one bike.
I live in fear of a puncture and losing them while changing a flat.
Has anyone successfully attached them to a hub. Would super glue do the trick?
2 years in and it's worked flawlessly, with some very careful puncture fixing
I bought these off eBay, partially because they were cheap partially because they were purple 🙂 it's just 2mm of alloy, some of the other kits were 3 times as much when I looked
I live in fear of a puncture and losing them while changing a flat.
Has anyone successfully attached them to a hub. Would super glue do the trick?
I superglued the spacers into the rear dropouts and it seems to have worked but too soon to know whether it will stay.
Another +1 for disc spacer and even axle spacing. I ran hope non-boost pro4’s on a boost frame for 3 years with shimano XT and was spot on.
I also ran 203 rotors and as far as i can tell i’m still alive. Sane….who knows!!
Also, IMHO people get too hung up on chain line and geometry and microns.
God only know what my chainline was. All i know is it was definitely not standard and shifting was spot on.
“Ideal” is intended for up and down cassette roughly even spread. I spend most time in 15-50 range so was better with an inboard chainline for me. If i’d spent more in the smaller rings then outboard would have been better. You can easily play around with a spacer on the BB.
I’ve now got 11sp boost wheels and chainring and shimano shifting was shat in comparison to the frankenboost set up. Moved to sram and miles better.
I ran MRP better boost and some disc spacer shims and couldnt fault it.