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Hive mind - new bike to me and a new way to me of putting an axel in. Google powers are failing me.
What is the correct way to remove this Axel? Thanks.
Allen key on the disc side is all.
Allen key of suitable (probably 6mm) size in NDS and wind it out anti-clockwise, the DS one will hold the mech hanger / dropout on
So, hold an 8mm on drive side and unscrew the 6mm NDS?
So, hold an 8mm on drive side and unscrew the 6mm NDS?
No.
Allen key of suitable (probably 6mm) size in NDS and wind it out anti-clockwise, the DS one will hold the mech hanger / dropout on
Its that simple.
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While you have the axle out, it's worth checking the other side is tight (LH thread, so anti-clockwise), i've come across quite a few that aren't.
Otherwise, as others have said, should be a 6mm in the NDS and turn anti clockwise.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=THAxs3PHEgY
See around 1.25 for the rear wheel.
Make sure you don't overtighten when reinstalling or you could round the edges
Use the best ****ing hex key you have and insert it properly. Really really properly.
Half inserting some piece of garbage minitool in there will result in a rounded bolt head and endless pain. And expense.
Why would you put a nice large 8mm hex in the side that's removed infrequently and a 6mm in the regularly unscrewed one. That's poor engineering design.
Probably because the axle threads into the dropout, so the dropout needs to be of a larger diameter than the axle otherwise it just wouldn't work
Use the best ****ing hex key you have and insert it properly. Really really properly
And don't over torque it.....use a torque wrench if you have one....
Why would you put a nice large 8mm hex in the side that’s removed infrequently and a 6mm in the regularly unscrewed one. That’s poor engineering design.
Because people will swing off an 8mm lil a gibbon. Good engineering design to use the correct size rather than the biggest possible
mert
Use the best ****ing hex key you have and insert it properly. Really really properly.
Half inserting some piece of garbage minitool in there will result in a rounded bolt head and endless pain. And expense
Oh this, definitely this! I bought a NEW bike and it turned up in a big box. I had to take the back wheel out, grabbed the nearest allen key, some cheap shite from gawd knows where (Wilkos probably!) shoved it in, turned, it went round... but the axle didn't! F-me I thought I'd destroyed something before I'd even ridden it! Dunno why they'd done it up so tight to post, but luckily the allen key was in such a short way it didn't do any damage.
Just as a warnin', like 🙂
Yeah, i've had to drill more than a few out.
Something from WERA, PBSwiss and so on.
Used Were hex and it got hot, pulled it out and it was so dry. Little bit of grease and now working perfectly.
Always amazed me how many riders do not use grease on axles of all types or pedals for that matter.
One of my brothers for starters lol also prefers to replace his whole drivetrain than just swap over chaons multiple times a year.
Silly git for not listening to younger knowledge.
I grease qr axles every time take them out / put them in
buy an extra (decent) 6mm hex key....I lost the one out of my Park Tools set when we went away for the weekend and must have left it on the ground when putting bikes back in car...so my set isn't a set anymore
Because people will swing off an 8mm like a gibbon
Given the experience I had recently with a work-colleagues bike, people will swing off a 6mm in the same fashion. Idiots
I am still riding a 2013 bike from when through axles were just starting. It still has a nice sized QR on it though.
Why are these new fangled axles requiring an Allen/Hex key, is it really an upgrade? Apart from saving a few grams, surly its a pain in the neck having to carry an Allen key everywhere with you.
What am I missing?
I've got a bike from last year, and one from a couple of years before that (2017 i think), both use sort of ratchetty springy levers (not QR/Cam type) so going to a hex key is definitely a step back. Both in convenience and durability.
buy an extra (decent) 6mm hex key….I lost the one out of my Park Tools set
Park might be expensive, but they aren't particularly good for what you're paying for them. That blue paint must cost a fortune!
Imo it is due to narrowing the width of rear of bike and making it slightly more secure in that just incase the qr lever catches a branch or obstacle that might undo it in some circumstances.
Apart from saving a few grams, surly its a pain in the neck having to carry an Allen key everywhere with you.
I carry a multitool with my for just in case trail repairs anyway.
I suppose how much of a pain in the neck it is depends on how often you disassemble the back end. Thats hardly ever for me.
I swapped the QR style Rear axle to a much neater Allen Key type. No more faff in carrying a single 6mm allen key in addition to the various other bits I carry (Multi-tool, tyre levers, snacks, water, CO2 inflator etc...)
Now I don't catch vegetation and rocks and small animals all the time.
Back to the original question:😉, it's easier if you shift up to top gear, and if your rear mech has a clutch make sure it is in the off position, and then don't forget to turn it back on once you've refitted the wheel or you'll have a really rattley chain
Why are these new fangled axles requiring an Allen/Hex key, is it really an upgrade?
No. Never had a qr lever style thru come loose but the bolt ups on our Orbea rises seem to fairly regularly.
QR skewers flex more than a thru-axle.
This is especially apparent on road bikes with disc brakes, you can hear the disc rubbing especially under hard efforts like sprinting.