Bearing removal, OM...
 

[Closed] Bearing removal, OMG, WT* etc etc

Posts: 496
Free Member
Topic starter
 

I'm trying to remove the cartridge bearings from my ( Hemlock ) rocker plates. Reccomended process of brute force involving chisels, screwdrivers and hammers, does not encourage the cases to budge. 👿

Any tips ?


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 2:50 pm
Posts: 2869
Free Member
 

Not done a Cotic but on a mates Trek the other day we made a puller from some studding, nuts & a 21mm deep socket - If they're knackered you can damage them getting them out & then use them to push the new ones in.
Did you get my email address I sent you re the Verb trip?


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 2:56 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

If all else fails you could try a LBS


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 2:58 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

you have got the rocker arm sat on something solid haven't you? If the rocker arm is moving when you hit the bearing it will go nowhere. A puller using threaded bar and sockets/washers is the easiest way


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 2:59 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

If all else fails you could try a LBS

that would be a humiliating admission of defeat 🙁


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 2:59 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

true, but if its a case of a bit of pisstake at the LBS or shelling out £100 for new rocker arms, I know what I would do.


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 3:01 pm
Posts: 6
Free Member
 

And I know who his LBS mechanic is... I wouldn't... 😉


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 3:09 pm
 v10
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

You can usually make a little puller out of parts in your bits box.

20mm 1"1/8th headset spacer
Headset top cap
Long top cap bolt (usually get them with avid post mount brake bolts)
A bolt and a few washers for the bearing side.

oh and a 5mm allen key to turn it with 🙂


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 3:11 pm
Posts: 34940
Full Member
 

I like v10's little puller, that's about the best bodge one I've read about.


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 3:17 pm
Posts: 14774
Free Member
 

If all the bearings are shot just put your rocker arms in the oven set to 100c (lowest gas setting) and have your same kit (and a heatproof glove) handy when you get them out in 10 minutes.

(Assuming they're anodised and not painted, paint may be damaged).


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 3:35 pm
Posts: 496
Free Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks all. Salvation is about to arrive in the shape of a strong vice and two socket spanners, one to push, one on the other side to receive.

Mark, I will get around to sending you the Verbier details some time before the weekend.


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 3:58 pm
 Del
Posts: 8273
Full Member
 

as above it does need to be on something pretty solid. as an example i couldn't knock out cart bearings from hubs on my garden bench, but i can on my work bench. a thick bit of flat wood, with a hole drilled in it, big enough to allow the bearing to pass would allow you to **** it pretty much anywhere, including the garden path if needs be.

failing that Jim will have a brass widget for doing it in a far more calm and relaxed manner, in fact the old bearing will probably make him a cup of tea after...
nowt that can't be fixed mate but i know how frustrating it can be. 🙂
good luck.


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 4:02 pm
Posts: 496
Free Member
Topic starter
 

in fact the old bearing will probably make him a cup of tea after...
😆

I'm off to see the man right now. It's his vice/socket solution


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 4:07 pm
Posts: 37
Free Member
 

Socket set and a vice. Don't be shy with the mallet and WD40 though!


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 167
Full Member
 

If you use a socket make sure the new bearing will fit inside. A 12 point socket has more room than a 6 point one. Nothing worse than pushing the bearing onto rather than into a socket.


 
Posted : 21/01/2009 4:47 pm