Beads won't seat, tyre holds air (Roady content)

In the past, in situations like that, I've taken the wheel out and "carefully" slammed the section of tyre sideways in to the ground....which is not an elegant solution.

Can you get a bit of soap or something slidey into that bit of the rim? If you seat that bit of bead before you inflate it, does it just get stuck at a different part of the wheel? What rim tape, if any, have you got? It could be a shade thick? If 120psi doesn't do it, then I suspect something is substantially out of tollerence.

I've been known to splodge baby lotion or washing up liquid on to help a stubborn bead slide into position.

Get some Schwalbe EasyFit solution and try mounting with that.

Thanks, rim tape is Hunt's own which came installed. Beads are so tight and at 19mm internal width no space to easily move stuff around as pushing one bead from the opposite side just unseats the other..

I had one tyre (a G-one) that didn't want to seat, that I ended up riding for a day or so (on a multi-day bike packing trip). Eventually I got it to seat (or more over.ut finally decided to seat itself) after I'd pumped it up to max pressure for a while and did what another poster said of gently bashing the wheel onto the ground.

I use a small amount of fairy liquid in a cup mixed with a bit of water and then use a small paintbrush to apply it easily around the bead.

Or spend 7 quid on something like this that does the exact same job - 'Schwalbe EasyFit solution' 🙄

Edit: just read you use washing up liquid.

Thanks, I only used the Fairy on the last bit of bead to get it on, not the whole bead... that will now involve getting Stan's everywhere....

Will try the tap it gently approach before giving up....

The gravel wheels and HT are so much simpler.... 🙄

Unseat the opposing side to the issue then try and manually push it over to the rim. Refit the other side and then inflate and see if that does the trick?  I've had fun and games with road wheels/tyres and getting one side to seat first has sometimes done the trick.

but is there anything simple I’m missing?

Doesn't look like it. I had had this issue before and also trued a lubricant, high pressure and pushing with thumbs to try and lift it up, put of floor with offending bit at bottom and tread on tyre to push it sideways.

In the end I have always solved it buy a lot of work with thumbs - deflate, hold up with thumbs while someone else pumps up.

Just keep pumping. One of two things will happen next.

More soap is generally the method that works.

I've had this with Schwalbe Ones. I used a tube to get the tyre to seat, then refitted tubeless with plenty of soapy water, 120psi and left it for a few days. It popped up eventually.

I'm another 'keep pumping'. Sometimes to north of 120psi. They then pop into position. If you've any previously sealed punctures, they usually unseal in the process as the little latex plug is expelled - at speed... 😁

Long conversation with Hunt support chap:

Don't use washing up liquid (contains salt)... use a tiny amount of cornflour starch as lubrication

Shouldn't need tyre levers with Pro Ones, there is a knack/technique to working the bead on in one continuous operation.

Overinflating the tyre can damage the rim tape/rim.

I should be able to massage the bead on by deflating the tyre a bit..

Am with the bike at work today so will attempt to deflate and massage (fnarr!) before leaving for home.. Wish me luck!

You will not lose sealant as you don't need to break the bead off the rim, just deflate and with neat fairy liquid on your finger, run it round the whole rim, both sides, then inflate. That should do it, else also maybe warm the tyre where it is not popping with a hairdryer before inflating.

I've never had an issue with using fairy so not sure the salt issue is a real concern?

On the salt front, I've known about this from it being not recommended for washing cars/bikes/anything other than dishes. I expect to be replacing the tyres and cleaning thoroughly before any corrosion issues take hold, so I'm not anticipating a problem but for warranty purposes I will obviously be stripping down and reseating, not using washing up liquid  (if Hunt ever read this.....)

I just use weak soapy water, I have a spray bottle in my workshop and it only has a dash in around a litre. It works to seat tyres and I've never noticed any corrosion but it's a very weak solution so I can't imagine it would cause issues.

I can see the OP bouncing the wheel off his garage floor and the tyre exploding off the rim and shooting the wheel across the garage, spraying sealant like a Catherine wheel. Fingers crossed it'll all be fine 🙏🍀 🤞

Are your wheels carbon OP? 

Had this a few times, strong fairy and water mix brushed onto the tyre bead and repeated hits with the Airshot (valve out)…always gets there in the end, and it’s that tight there’s no way the bead is coming off when you deflate to add the valve core 👍

Another one here for fitting with a tube and leaving overnight before deflating the tube and removing it from the side you know is good. Seems to happen a lot with me on gravelking tyres of all types. You’re definitely inflating without a valve core in, yes?

Cheers all, yep carbon rims.

I attempted to fettle the tyres in office and may have added some easily-available-household-product as lubricant to get them to seat - it half worked ie. seemed to reduce the wobble a bit, and I was able to re-inflate with my mini track pump and ride home.

Think I need to try and start the entire process fresh in the garage with the appropriate lubricant and air tank. One for the weekend....

Will the salt have any effect on the carbon anyway??

Will the salt have any effect on the carbon anyway??

Having had similar washing up liquid related conversations with Hunt, I think it's more the alloy nipples (if they are alloy, rather than brass) that it might affect/corrode.

Having had similar washing up liquid related conversations with Hunt, I think it’s more the alloy nipples (if they are alloy, rather than brass) that it might affect/corrode.

That was my take on it, plus possibly the valve internals as well - although you would need the tape to fail to affect the nipples. I imagine it takes some time to cause a problem although Hunt support guy had some entertaining stories of wheel issues he deals with and seems to have seen everything, think it was a slow day.

Problem solved in the short term by putting the gravel wheels back on for today's commute... Hunt wheels sulking in the corner of the garage. They're booked in with the LBS for Saturday as I want them working for Sunday and CBA with spending 3 hours in the garage swearing at them whilst destroying my thumbs and still not fixing the issue without employing possible warranty invalidating practices..

Silicone spray works for me. I lube my fork stantions with it so always have a can. It’s really slippy and usually makes the bead slide.

Have a can of silicone spray kicking about... one for the future. (@shedbrewed, I did remove the valve cores for the first inflation with the air tank.)

So popped the tyres off this morning (which was easier than expected) hosed everything down and dropped the wheels and tyres with the LBS, picked up this afternoon, all good, compressor 💪:)

First proper outing tomorrow.

One thing I've found with new tyres is they can be a complete nightmare due to being super tight, so tight in fact its real hurty fingers trying to fit them. But if you need to take them off and refit- in my experience this is with inner tubes getting a pinch flat during fitting, when you put them back on again they go on easier.

So maybe take them off and try again from scratch.

So an update... And a question..

Wheels/tyres have been great, feel fast, confidence inspiring grip, and comfort exceeding expectation..

So much so I've barely used the cast iron shod commuter frankenbike... and given the recent crappy weather, have had a few punctures on the London commute, mainly from glass fragments and all but the last one self sealing.

The Pro Ones have numerous small cuts, I've fished out a few tiny bits of glass, but one cut in particular, whilst holding pressure, was losing sealant underway. I have discovered it's not the easiest stuff to remove once dried on... especially when mixed with road crud..

Anyway.. I attempted to improve the situation by sticking in a bacon strip from my MucOff repair kit.. seemed to go in fine and sealed straight away. Dropped the tyre pressure to remove the valve core to top up sealant and the bead popped out the hook for a small section of tyre.... Sigh..

Reinflated to 100+psi to attempt to re-seat, no joy but it did fire out the bacon strip across the garage...

I re-plugged the hole, it's holding 65psi but the strip has eased itself out slightly over 24 hours, and the tyre hasn't properly seated so I have a wobbly rear once again.

Frankenbike with its puncture proof Contis back on commuting duty for the foreseeable.... A visit to the LBS is imminent...

Do I need to fork out for a Dynaplug kit to prevent worm/strip ejection?

TIA

So the LBS re-seated the bead for £5, my repair lasted most of a 58km ride this afternoon, and failed on a speed bump on the last suburban stretch. Fitted a new bacon strip and made it home.

Back in the garage, added more sealant and with no pressure, the bead naturally had unseated for a section, the tyre appears to be twisted for the last section to be popped on opposite the valve. After a couple of failed airshot attempts, I added sealant as a lubricant to the incorrectly positioned bead and pumped it up with my trackpump to 100psi and it finally popped into place - so it appears I've got the hang of it 🙂

Dynaplug kit to be acquired...

I permanently repair proper holes with mushrooms. Can't remember if they've been mentioned up there^ This sort of thing...