[Closed] BB5s

They get a lot better after some use if my BB7s are anything to go by, using old XTR levers and std jagwire cables. BB5 pads are different and they're tricker to set up but set-up (edit - ie how rub-free they are) isn't going to affect power much.

I've tried 2 or 3 cross bikes with BB5s and they were awful. Bought a cross bike with BB5s a couple of weeks ago, got them setup properly and they work really well.

I replaced the cable outers on mine for Jagwires and followed [url= http://www.ecovelo.info/2011/04/15/a-foolproof-method-for-adjusting-avid-bb5-disc-brakes/ ]this[/url] and it made a substantial difference. The stopping is spot on. I also tensioned the cables by pulling the arm thingy up a bit before tightening the cable clamp. Of course, I've only been riding the bike a couple of days so it could go all crappy in a few more kilometres.

BB5 roads presumably?

I couldn't get on with BB7 roads (similar to th OPs problems) and found simply spending a shed load of cash on Hope V-Twins sorted the problem instantly.

Please note: this may not be the cheapest solution.

Edit: but it don't half work

I have 2 pairs, both work fine. They are set up right tho.

I swapped the SRAM levers for 105 STI as I couldn't get on with them. Transformed the BB5s on my CX, which was a bit of a bonus.

Slug wash, I followed that set up guide tonight, will try the cable tensioning too.

ScottishPhil, of this forum, has a Boardman CX with SRAM levers & BB5s and they're sharper than mine. It's all in the setting up (probably).

(I'm running mine with Campag Ergos)

Have them on my Kona Ute. Considering there's probably 160kg on board when the kids & school kit are on the back, they stop as well as any hydro discs I've used.

Hi,

Make sure when you are installing the cable to the caliper you preload the arm before you tighten the cable nut. They will be spongy and not brake well other wise.

Pull the cable through the caliper, push the arm a couple of mm through its travel then tighten the cable. Job done.

Regards

Work very well when set up right and don't when not, have found that even a couple of turns of the adjusters can make a huge difference

Sounds like I am not the only one who finds Campag let other brake friendly.
IGM, how about some feedback on the Hopes. I am contemplating a set but am loath to spend if they are not significantly impressive. Are they as good as road dual pivots for example?

Put some BB7 calipers on there - you can get them for £40ish from ebay - and some decent cables.

Hydro seems a very overengineered solution - a cross tyre is narrower than a mtb tyre and decently setup BB7s will stop a mtb fine.

Read a comment from Boardman saying that hydro brakes are the way forward for CX bikes, but it looks like his company don't seem to know how to set them up and he has tried one of his own bikes...

Think I've narrowed it down to avids inline adjusters flexing like anything. Going to strip those out tonight, replace cable with one length and preload arm slightly. Think that should do it.

as with all cable calipers, when the pad contacts the disc, you want the arm to be as near as dammit perpendicular to the brake cable, hence the small amount of 'preload' as it's decribed above.

This is the main thing which differentiates the BB5 from the BB7 - to compensate for pad wear on outboard pad on the BB5, you adjust the cable tension, which makes means that over time the angle between arm and cable is no longer perpendicular, and you get varying performance. If every now and then you re-set the cable clamp so the arm stays near to the perpendicular as the pad wears, performance will stay fairly consistent.

The BB7 differs in that it has an independent adjuster for pad wear on the outboard side so cable/arm position is unaffected as the pad wears.

(Both BB5 and 7 have an inboard pad adjuster)

The BB5 can be maintained as nearly as powerful as the BB7 all the time - it just needs more tinkering than the BB7.

And ref. the ebay comment - all the cheap BB7's on ebay are the MTB variety. The road ones go for a LOT more!

Had BB5's in the past and they were OK. They did stop me but were never brilliant. Replaced them with BB7's eventually and they are much better. Far easier to adjust for pad wear as well, which is a nice bonus to improved performance. Pads are easier to find as well.

The road ones go for a LOT more!

ok - £61.99 then - I think that only warrants a lowercase "lot" when compared to £40ish as that could extend up to £49.99...

Got a link to those? I could be interested at that money, but I can only find them singularly for that price. The MTB ones are widely available on ebay for £50ish the pair.

cp - Member
as with all cable calipers, when the pad contacts the disc, you want the arm to be as near as dammit perpendicular to the brake cable, hence the small amount of 'preload' as it's decribed above.

Erm...no...the arm has a circular cable guide which means this is not the case.

ah, my mistake - these say front/rear, not pair - DOH - back to uppercase LOT!

ah, my mistake - these say front/rear, not pair - DOH - back to uppercase LOT!

🙂

Erm...no...the arm has a circular cable guide which means this is not the case

That only covers you for a small range though, still good practice to have good alignment.

Erm...no...the arm has a circular cable guide which means this is not the case

Correct

That only covers you for a small range though, still good practice to have good alignment.

Also correct - to the extent that if the you have the caliper aligned correctly and the pad clearance minimised, then the circular cable guide on the end of the arm will maintain a constant pull radius over a much bigger range than will be required.

(BB7 Road user on 2 bikes...)

spangelsaregreat - Member

Make sure when you are installing the cable to the caliper you preload the arm before you tighten the cable nut

Cheers for that advice, just spent ages trying to sort mine out and that little trick done the job!

Wacko,

No problems. Despite having used BB7s on my cross/commuter/winter road bike for years I recently installed new cables and forgot this step! They were pants!

The older I get the less I know!

Regards

so, quick update. replaced the outer cable / inline adjusters with one length of cable, preloaded the arms, and although not stop on a six pence great, they are a lot better. I reckon a couple more times playing with them and I'll have them bang on.

Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated

I had 2 bikes with bb5's and never got on with them , switched to bb7 ands shimano br505 road calipers on both bikes and soon much better,personally I think a lot of the braking issue is the contact area of bb5's pads seem to be about half that of the other brakes

Someone asked what the Hopes are like.

Typically Hope I would say - so you'll love'em or hate'em. I'm running them with 105 STIs, same as the BB7s and the Tektro rim brakes that preceded them. They are on a Singular Gryphon.

More power than the BB7s I had, in fact more than the Juicy 3s on my 456, but less than a Tech X2 - unsurprising given they run the X2 caliper and the STI and joggle box was never likely to beat the dedicated Tech lever. That said enough power to lock the front wheel with a 2" wide Big Apple slick on the bike.
However the most impressive thing is the feel and modulation. This is what I meant by typically Hope - enough power to lock the wheel, but only when you decide to. It's equally easy to just feather off a little excess speed.

Haven't found a downside yet, except that I've had to upgrade the 456's brakes.