[Closed] Argh...helitape hell

Lacquer applied directly onto metal isn't going to have as good adhesion qualities as an etch primed, painted then lacquered surface. If it's only a small area I'd just touch it in with some single pack or even 2 pack lacquer.

Not the easiest of things to take a picture of but...

As you can see, small patches all along.

[img] [/img]

Doh! Forget about it, ride the hell out of it and they'll soon be plenty more marks and scuffs on it. Mountain bikes looks so much better when well worn. Think of it as a head start.

That's quite a strip of lacquer that's come off. How about just covering it with another length of helitape? Might not be as noticeable and will provide protection.
I think the lacquer used is slightly porous anyways so the frame will eventually have a nice dusting of rustiness.
I can understand your annoyance but at least it's on the underside of the downtube.

On One reckon helitape is the devils work. Ask Northwind.

Terrible quality paint.

I would touch it up with some model aircraft paint or clear nail varnish and put some tape on and then go out and ride.

Scuffs and scars will remind you of good rides and the rest of the frame will get banged up soon enough but helitape is good for protecting against serious chipping which will lead to rust.

Sticking a piece of tape down then pulling it off is a standard paint adhesion test used on the offshore equipment that I work on. The tape used isn't super sticky, and the paint is onto steel which is easier to paint and it's still not an easy test to pass. What's happened is frustrating, but not surprising, and as ever with Helitape, I can't help wondering how it can keep your bike looking better when removing it once it's beat up is likely to do this.

Put [url= http://www.allmountainstyle.com/products/ams-honeycomb-frame-guard-xl ]some of this [/url]on in black, the clear would also hide it as well.

This tape is available in a range of colours and will cover that: [url= http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-cloth-tape-27-mm-mesh-black-48mm-x-50m/28962?kpid=28962&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&kpid=28962&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives ]tape[/url]

Or just go and get it scratched and muddy. 🙂

Im not going to stick anymore tape over the top, imagine what will happen when I eventually have to replace it 😯

Got some small bits on the headtube for cable rub but thats it now.

Think I may try touching it up with some matt lacquer. Its going to get scratched under there anyway isn't it.

Just has another look, there's already stone chips into the lacquer anyway. Think im just going to have to get into the 'raw' mindset here aren't I.

My raw Nomad is full of holes in the lacquer underneath. Taken a lot of strikes and haven't bothered with any frame protection. Frame is still fine and no one really looks underneath but me if I flip it over.

However, when fitting helitape, dunk it in water first. You can slide it about and reposition it without it damaging anything. Plus it's easier to eliminate air bubbles. Then hair dryer to set it in place.

Nitromors the rest off.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/mid-life-make-over-raw-steel-content

Rust is RAD

Good tip deadkenny

Lizard skins patches used em for years in cable rub areas, come off very clean with no paint issues.

Helitape, i put my last roll in the bin!!!

Apply the tape wet, allows you to move it about before committing.

The idea of raw is you don't need any tape is there is no paint to scratch.
My raw tracer isn't even lacquered I don't think - just bare metal

As above, apply wet, use a wet cloth to get most of the bubbles out then use a hairdryer which helps it stick down. If you have a lot to do with complex shapes, cut the shapes out of paper first.

use a hair drier to soften the acrylic adhesive for removal.

Andyl...What when its time to change the tape?

Im really wondering if I should tape at all. I need to see what other on one raw owners have done I think.

I think I understand so will answer 'yes' to using the hair drier when removing tape.

As above, I would paint to protect from rust and then apply a strip of tape to the underside to help prevent chips that will lead to spot rusting.

from On One...

[i]Colour options are a painted black finish and a raw finished frame, which is clear-coated but does require some cautions. The Raw Finish is designed to have manufacturing blemishes and might not appeal to all. Also, it's extremely likely that some degree of surface rusting may be present from new or develop over time, though due to the only process that this frame has been through is the first surface treatment in the paint process, the action of that rust on the frame is only as bad as the action of rust on the inside of a painted frame. The frame is coated with a matt laquer, which being slightly porous will allow the steel tubes to corrode, but this, we consider, gives a patina of age and wear (like a nice wok) rather than it being a problem. If you have an issue with this, please select the painted option.[/i]

In my case my raw Nomad is ali so less issues with corrosion anyway. I like the analogy to a Wok with steel frames though. Maybe coat it will oil and apply high heat to season it 😀

😀

[i] Maybe coat it will oil [/i]
actually quite common to do this with rawed BMX frames, normally with a rag dipped in oil or diesel.

I actually tried a bit of wd40 and it did improve the look of the bits that were now uncoated.