Tyre in question is a 2.35 high roller, rim is a mavic 317.
Firstly is there too much of the band around the tyre showing.
Secondly is the damage under the 'O' of .com likely to be caused by the rim being too narrow. This is the second tyre I've had this happen to.
Been thinking of getting some new wheels with wider rims anyway so this will be a good excuse.
[img] 
[/img]
I have run some chunky(ish) tyres on my Mavic 317s. Have run both Michelin 2.35 and Panaracer Rampage 2.35 tyres (Michelin were bigger) and they seemed to be fine. The Mavic website said that they were able to handle 2.35 tyres last time I checked, but tyre sizes vary massively (my Maxxis Ardent 2.25 seem as big as the Rampage 2.35s I have).
I have a ding in my rim which presses into the side wall, but this does not seem to have done any harm to the tyres.
Unless you had bad crash I would say it's more likely to be caused by too little pressure in your tyres. I've had similar problems with tubeless tyres in the past.
thats odd, im running a maxxis minion 2.35 (same carcass as the high loller) on my xm 317 and its fine, had the tyre on there for 2 years as well.
how old is the tyre? you could try letting the air out, reseating the bead and pumping it back up again 😕
Float - The 2.35 Minion is narrower than a 2.35 High Roller. That's the only combination I use these days and wasn't happy running a narrower front than rear when I first started using them...never felt that the front let's go before the rear though.
The band that you can see on the tyre - just above the rim, is that supposed to be as visible or should it be hidden by the rim?
The tyre is quite new and has been on and off a few times due to punctures. It always inflates the same way with that amount of bead showing.
Float - The 2.35 Minion is narrower than a 2.35 High Roller
really, i just presumed they were being maxxis' 'old carcass' size type thing... the more you know 🙂
Just measured my Minion/High roller combo(I'm bored, ok),and they come up near as dammit the same width (about 1mm diff if anyone else is bored too). They aren't that wide for a 2.35 tyre, so will run acceptably on Mavic's 17mm rims (though a wider rim would probably be better), can't see that causing the tyre damage that you have though.Usually have about a 4mm gap between the edge of my rim and the line on the tyre wall on my 717.
those 'crosshatch' stripes on the tyre wall are where the threads in the carcass are showing through the rubber - only time I've had that (on other makes) is when running tyre pressures too low for long periods.
Yes, they are too narrow. Ideally use a 19-20mm + rim for a bigger tyre as you'll be able to use lower pressures without the tyre folding in corners.
Wide 500+g rims are better than narrow 420g rims off-road, unless you're an XC racer. I think that anything under ~21mm is too narrow, but rim makers are still refering to that ETRTO guide. There's a few proper wider options starting to appear though.
those 'crosshatch' stripes on the tyre wall are where the threads in the carcass are showing through the rubber - only time I've had that (on other makes) is when running tyre pressures too low for long periods.
Hmmm. Thats interesting as its happened to my last couple of tyres when used on the rear. I was wondering what was causing it but I didn't think it was down to low pressures. I run my tyres at about 30 to 35 psi - at least thats what the guage on my cheap and nasty track pump says.
I know that if I run them lower than this I get a lot of pinch flats - especially on the rear. If I run them much higher I dont like the feel as it makes the front seem skittish. Maybe I need to invest in a proper guage and make sure that I am running at the PSI I think I am.
Thanks for all the replies.
I have just moved from 717's to Alex EN24's which is only a change from 17mm to 19mm but I have to say 2.25 schwalbes go on so much easier, and sit so much better on the rim now. I have been running rims that were too narrow for the tyres I was using, the tyres were not sitting brilliantly and whenever I went somewhere like CYB the rims got dinged a bit. Like jameso said - ultra light rims may not be the best for the real world.
In my case I negated the extra rim weight by running thinner (DT Super Comp) spokes. We'll see how wise that was when I next go to CYB, but an old hardtail set of 517's with Dt Revolution spokes lasted fine for over a decade so thinner spokes seem to work for me.
What I can't understand is that you can make up what you think is a light set of wheels, with pro2's, relatively narrow rims, and thin spokes but the weights are still way higher than a dedicated XC custom wheelset. How reliable they are (crank brothers, DT swiss, etc) at around 1500g, if you ride them hard at a trail centre, I would love to know...