[Closed] Anyone know anything about flat bars?....

Maybe try a standard diameter bar with a shim? Just a thought.....

Otherwise I'd be looking for some cheap OE bars from somewhere

What about brake levers? I think v-levers pull the wrong amount of cable for caliper brakes, so you'll need to look out for some Shimano R440 brake levers or similar

Yeah I know but if anyone has any bars that they have found have a long bulge (ooo-er) I want to steer clear of them.

I already have some tasty X-Lite Pro barends to use on the set-up.. 🙂

What about brake levers? I think v-levers pull the wrong amount of cable for caliper brakes, so you'll need to look out for some Shimano R440 brake levers or similar

I have heard that, but experience from others has told me it doesn't make much of a difference. I will be getting Avid Speed Dial levers where you can change the leverage ratio on, to make it just right anyway.

If these are 9sp, they are exactly what you need -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shimano-SL-R440-Shifters-and-BL-R440-Brake-Lever-Set_W0QQitemZ230452276576QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item35a806ad60

but experience from others has told me it doesn't make much of a difference

I'd ignore them personally...

Bontrager flat bars have a [i]reasonably [/i]'short' taper on the OS section, not sure they'd work cut down that short though, particularly with bar ends.

Hmmmm...........

I'll try to look round the local shops for some bars but you don't see much of selection at most places. I would like nice stuff as its my fancy road bike. No ratty 2nd hand cack... 🙂

just hacksaw off the curly part of your drops!

I'd ignore them personally...

My commuter has an old XT v-brake lever which pulls a canti brake and has done for over a year with no problems.

I just had a look at the set of OS flat bars I have ( brand new - yours if you want them 🙂 e mail in profile ). They are 580 wide but I doubt anything could be cut off them and still mount a brake, shifter and grip. 180mm for grip shifter and brake - . The innermost clamp wil only be 110 mm from the centre

Maybe you've already considered this but road bikes designed for drop bars with flat bars end up very short and upright - not nice handling IMO...

The main problem I have is that I have a very bad neck and struggle to be comfortable on a bike. I like the position on the tops but obviously can't reach the brake or gear levers. The hoods position is ok but its possibly a touch long. I NEVER use the drop position.

I suppose it may be easier to change the stem for a non-oversize one as there may be more different types available.

Measuring it up if you want 480 wide flat bars the innermost brake / shifter clamp will need to go within about 30 mm of the centre clamp - I doubt yo could get that even with non OS bars as the still have a central bulge

I could go wider, its not set in stone TBH. Do you think gripshifts would be a better way to go than STI's?

What are the flat bars you have TJ?

My bike at the moment:-

[IMG] [/IMG]

Quite upright, no handling probs really.

And yes I am short. 😀

Kore do some short O/S bars - not sure they do 480mm short though

I'd try a shorter stem and keep the drop bars. Maybe bring the hoods up a touch too. Also, are those standard ergo bars? The compact versions which are becoming more common have less reach and less drop and are better for smaller guys (I prefer them). Changing bars and stem would be much less expensive, and have added benefit of not making your bike look wrong!

Are you certain that the saddle is the right height? Too high rocks your hips and is very bad for your back.

If you put flat bars on it will be cramped and short, which might be uncomfortable too...

I can cut them down, it's the length of the bulge that matters......

I have already rotated the bars back a bit and moved the levers to suit. Stem is pretty short as it is.

Bad neck is not from riding bikes, btw. It's fine on my Pitch except when I haveto push it a lot.

Get an easton shim (you may need to cut it down to fit non-Easton stems) and use a non-OS bar.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=18019&src=froogle

TBH I have the compact bars but I hate them. Less reach means less forward extension, so there's very little space for your palms whilst on the hoods. I might be better with standard ergo bars!

Anyway, it doesn't solve the problem of gears and brakes on the flat section.

One more thing though - a sore neck isn't uncommon when riding a road bike for any length of time, especially if you're new to it. The lower position on a road bike puts more strain on your neck muscles holding your head up (google RAAM and neck problems - there are some great solutions!). Riding in the position will eventually build up the muscles so you don't get the pain (assuming that's the only cause but since your Pitch doesn't cause it, this seems likely)

BAD NECK IS NOT FROM RIDING THE BIKE. It was an industrial injury which damaged 3 vertebrae, causing a trapped nerve in my spine. Makes my arm numb and can get very painful. 3 fence panels landed on my head in high winds.

I have some new XPosure levers (white) that will pull the right amount of cable for sale.
Like these
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/xposure/brake-levers-pair-ec018527

£8 posted

Ouch!

I have / had a similar problem, first hands gonumb, then feet if its a long ride. First I tried using a stem lifter, then short stem, but it was the hoods being so far forwards that was causing the neck trouble, so converted to flat bars with barends. This works well, I converted over to flatbar 10 speed STI's with normal flat style brake levers. I think the whole lot came to about £180. Problem I found was that on a long ride, not enough places to put your hands, so for a laugh, I put a set of tri- bars on it. It's now an awesome set up, and doesn't affect my neck, I think because my arms (from the elbow up) are vertical, rather than at an angle as they were on the hoods. It makes a big difference over drops, much more aerodynamic.
If I was doing it again, I think I would have flipped the bars and cut off the drops first, that would be the cheaper option, and you would find out if the new position sorted you out.

9spd deore sti on crc for half price brake/shifter combo worth a look.