[Closed] Anyone happen to have a pic of the rear brake on a Soul to hand?

Sure it's not a front caliper? If so, it would need a 140mm rotor at the back.

EDIT No.3 is 180mm front, or 160mm rear. No. 5 is 160 front 140 rear. I think.

No it's a rear, it came off my Inbred (same wheel and rotor being transferred). I think it's a number 3 so should be OK. It "almost" fits but no matter how I adjust it the rotor just fouls the top.

Couple of thin washers beneath the post mount, just enough to raise it slightly? I've done similar in the past.

Perhaps I've got my terminology muddled Mamadirt bit it's just bolted straight in from the side through the frame lugs and straight into the caliper - I've got some washers to centralise the pads on the rotor but they don't "lift" it up. Thanks though.

Always find this brake bracketry lark confusing.

Yeah with the older style IS calipers you can't move up/down for biger or smaller rotors. Not sure if there's owt you can do other than get a new caliper, or somehow trim the rotor down. How much overlap is there?

Mowgli thanks. Apologies for the delay - we lost our Internet connection and I have had to borrow my wife's very slow "devil device" (iPhone).
Not much overlap - but enough to clatter loudly and stop the wheel quickly. I wondered if I was possibly a bracket short. That brake has always been weak regardless of bleeding so tomorrow it's hammer time and if that fails will have to consider a new hope tech.

Cheers

Bummer. If you are gonna sell the old brake give us a shout 🙂

Can you chuck extra washers in?

If its IS mount and it fouls the right size disc then the disc tabs are in the wrong place

You don't need mounting brackets with IS calipers

Perhaps I've got my terminology muddled Mamadirt bit it's just bolted straight in from the side through the frame lugs and straight into the caliper

No, my fault - didn't spot the IS bit in your first post 😳
Hope you can manage to sort it.

ononeorange - Member

Perhaps I've got my terminology muddled Mamadirt bit it's just bolted straight in from the side through the frame lugs and straight into the caliper - I've got some washers to centralise the pads on the rotor but they don't "lift" it up. Thanks though.

Always find this brake bracketry lark confusing.

that is IS mount assuming no separate bracket between frame and calliper. if you are sure the disc is the right size for the brake IE that same combo was ok on another frame the only answer I can think of is the frame lugs are in the wrong place

I once inadvertently swapped Mono4 and Mono 6 rotors over and had the issue you describe. All Hope rotors are not equal. Are you sure you have the right rotor for the brake? I sorted mine by holding a grinding stone against the rotor and spinning it to trim the extra mm off.

Are you trying this with a genuine Hope rotor? I think I've still got a scrap 160 hope floater at home that you could have; it's got wobbly rivets though so probably not a lot of life left (I didn't like having the play in it).

double check the rotor size/style matches, failing that we've got a facing tool which also checks the position of the disc mount relative to the rear axle - I'm sure other shops'll have this too..

Was the inbred vertical dropout'd?

Thanks everyone - apologies for the delay (been offline).

Yes it was the same brake kit from the Inbred, and yes it's a Hope rotor - but I take your point they're not all the same. I may rob abnother 160 to try. (it was the rotor with the brake previously though and fitted fine).

Inbred was s/s - horizontal dropouts. Thanks too 18 bikes - may try that route with a shop.

I think a little bit of clouting now and if not some filing and see what we get. Mowgli, if it doesn't work I promise not to clout the caliper and you've got first refusal!

Is it fouling the inner face of the caliper or an old pair of pads? Take the pads out and check it still does it.

check the disc size that its not 165 mm - with horizontal dropouts you could probably get the extra 2.5 mm clearance by moving the wheel around

Success!! (Sort of).

Rotor was definitely marked as 160mm, but a combination of substituting a spare Shimano rotor which seemed to be fractionally smaller, a bit of clouting, lots of minute adjustments and copious swearing and it now turns almost freely - a slight bit of rub but small enough that I reckon it will wear in - before it was half-jamming and I could hear / feel each saw tooth snagging.

Thank you very much to all. Really appreciate it. Sorry Mowgli, the brake is staying.

Now to work out IS/Post brackets at the front for a 180.....

Sounds like a confluence of tolerance issues.

Look inside the frame mount to see if there's an excess of paint?

Was it definitely fouling the caliper and not the pads?

What Cynic said - check that the wheel is sitting correctly as the paint is pretty thick. I thought I had a dishing/alignment issue but I just hadn't whacked the wheel in correctly. Flipped it upside down, pushed the wheel in and all was fine.

boxelder - yes, could hear the saw high points catching (and could see them too). Edge of the rotor was scuffed.

iruk / al - yes, a fair bit of paint in the dropouts - the file will be out tonight. Thanks.