[Closed] Any T129 owners, advice please

Rear suspension tune? I was dead set on buying one of them for ages, but a weekend demo with one told me I wouldn't enjoy it. Too much bob with the Horst linkage for me to live with, everything else was excellent though, and this is purely a personal choice (I'm a single pivot loving weirdo). Really wish I'd gotten on with it as it's an excellent value machine & geometry is spot on.
You may struggle getting any tyres too big in the rear triangle, not sure if it would help climbing or not either

I find mine the fastest climbing fs bike I've owned (previous bikes orange 5, zesty, enduro). Really gives me an advantage over mates on 26 inch bikes. In fact it's faster up, down and along than previous fs bikes too and is only slower on really rough stuff (due to a bit less travel I reckon).
I use a 2.25 ardent set up tubeless with no clearance issues on the rear and much prefer it to the standard nano that came on the bike (2014 t129s). I've gone 1x10 for the first time recently and having no trouble so far (early days tho).

2014 T129s here and can only echo the above. Previous bike was a 2010 stumpy FSR and the Whyte beats it up, down and along, despite being almost 3lb heavier and supposedly not as agile due to its "clown wheels"

Running a tubeless maxxis beaver on the back at the moment, daren't change it in case the local trails return to a gloopy slop-fest.

Oh, and I've removed two of the five volume reducer bands from inside the monarch air can. This means the shock doesn't ramp up so much at the end of the travel and I don't have to run so much sag to get the shock using its travel. This has probably made a difference to the climbing as I don't notice much bob at all and always leave the shock fully open.

Not had any problems with men going uphill. Which model do you have?

2015 129s. As I say I can't put my finger on it but it seems harder work even with the 22 ring than my 1x10 hardtail. This weekend I rode HOTS and the rear either was useless in moist muddy areas or lost traction and skipped out at the back, occasionally locking up too easily again losing traction. I might change the tyre and have a fiddle with set up.

T-129 Works SCR here.

Only have 2 criticisms of the bike... The first one, and this is forgivable largely as the bike is such a fantastic descender, the back end is so active that it needs a good shock tune so that it doesn't bob as well as remaining active. Mine has the Float CTD on it, in Descend it's incredible when pointing down but bobs like a mofo when pedalling on the flat or uphill. In Trail it's reasonably good (but still bobs a fair bit) up and along, but too firm when descending. In climb it's great for climbing, but too firm if you do hit anything and need the suspension to move to maintain traction.

Secondly... And this is IMO unforgivable... Rear tyre clearance is crap! In anything other than bone dry conditions, even a narrow 2.1" tyre will see the back end clogged at the merest hint of anything wet.

The bike descends like a demon, it's perfectly balanced, geometry is spot on, all the stock components are fantastic (Only thing I'd prefer is a slightly wider rim, but the Roam wheels are still very good to be fair) which is rare for an off the shelf bike, and it's painted a cool colour. Just needs to gain a few mm in the swingarm to create some bloody tyre clearance! I'm happy running a Hardtail in the winter so don't expect to run a FS through the gloop, but on the FoD Wild Boar Chase today (mostly very dry, dusty even) there was a couple of slightly muddy sections for maybe 50 or 100 metres, and even with a 2.1" in there, I had to find a (very narrow) stick to clear the mud out whilst everyone else carried on riding/pushing their bikes!

If you only ever ride Trail Centres in the dry, and are happy running a 2.1" tyre max, and you endure the climbs to smash the descents. It's an absolutely killer bike! As is though, as much as I enjoy caning mine on the descents, I'm glad it's only a stop gap whilst my Evil The Following is on its way.

Agree with mboy above ^^^

I've a 2013 T129's - bought just over a year ago as a 2nd hand frame and built with a mix of stuff.
I have no issues with how it climbs, pedals or decending though. It's much, much better at these things than any other full sustainable I've owned. Stick the shock in lock out for any tarmac and it 99% gets rid of any bob. Can't say I've noticed it bob any more than any of my mates bikes either.
However, the rear mud clearance is shocking!
So bad that this winter I considered selling it. In the end I put a 2.0 mud tyre on it and have had no issues since - I'll now leave it on permanently through the summer as well. I should have realised as when I built the bike up I tried to slot in a chunky 2.3 kenda tyre and it wedged itself in the chain stay bridge.
Only other minor gripes I have may have been sorted in the more resent versions - the paint is too easy to chip.
&
The bottom of the right drop out fouls the shimano clutch lever when on 10th gear - this prevents smooth gear changes to 10th unless you wind in the b (?) Tension screw to prevent it, and end up with the top jockey wheel further away from the cassette than it should be.

I can relate to this feeling, but I'm riding a Hammerhead Thumper FS29er. There's definitely something in this:

I've removed two of the five volume reducer bands from inside the monarch air can. This means the shock doesn't ramp up so much at the end of the travel and I don't have to run so much sag to get the shock using its travel.

I maxed out with volume spacers as I was blowing through the travel yet I wanted to run DH-level sag (CTD). But I think it has sacrificed climbing ability. The bike does now "feel" like it's tough to haul uphill. Will try adding more air for less sag. I'll then possibly step down on the volume spacer size after that.

A few questions for the OP:

What was your previous bike (i.e. what are you comparing the T129 to)?

Is it actually measurably slower (i.e. are you comparing measured times up climbs) or does it just feeel slower?

Is it always slower or just on certain climbs at certain times?

I've tended to find that 29ers are faster up and along, but only if I can keep on top of that big wheel and keep it rolling along. If my energy levels and speed drops then I can find it harder to keep going.

I put this down to the heavier wheels (more inertia) being harder to accelerate. Every pedal stroke is an acceleration and this effect becomes more noticable the lower the speed.

All other things being equal a bigger wheel wheel is better. But all other things being equal a lighter wheel is better and a stiffer wheel is better. Whether a larger, heavier less stiff wheel is better is debatable.

Rover.... Previous bike was a Marin Rift Zone 29er.It just feels slower, it's actually quicker in some areas including some climbs. Maybe I just need to ride it more as it's a second bike. It descends brilliantly and blasts flowing singletrack, I am definitely going to look at alternative rear tyres as at 2.0 it's just not great.

I love my T-129 Works, 2014 model. It climbs better than I can, that's for sure! As for bobbing, can't say I've noticed. However, I'm only 150lbs, that might make a difference. Regarding tyre clearance, I've used two types - 2.3 Bontrager XR3 and a 2.2 Specialized Purgatory. No clogging issues (and it's seriously muddy up here at times) although the clearance [u]looks[/u] really tight.

To be fair I usually ride the debonair monarch in trail mode so not locked not open.I don't notice much bobbing either. It is a little heavier by a couple of lbs than my last full suss and is a few lbs heavier than my hardtail 29er. Maybe that has a lot to do with it and it's my second bike?.Or maybe I am adjusting to the gear ratio on it being 36 ring and 22 ring rather than my usual 32 ring.

Did some one say clogging issues?
[img] [/img]

To be fair any bike would have clogged up in this mud.