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As title really. Speccing a new bike, and without going into too much detail I've earned the right to spaff a few quid on myself. I am mechanically clueless so biggest draw is saying goodbye to endless tinkering. But I spend a lot of the time on the tops, so satellite shifters would be a big bonus. Only worry I can think of is damaged derailleurs being pricey, but I haven't done that in ten years anyway, and possibly being left high and dry with a problem if I'm somewhere remote or abroad. But this looks a minor concern as that's a once or twice a year scenario
Road or MTB?
MTB... Quite simply, DON'T! Most bikes aren't designed with Di2 in mind, and good as it is, it offers little benefit for modern 1x bikes, and now that AXS wireless is here, it's largely irrelevant.
Road... Don't hesitate for a second! It really is the business. Got R8050 Ultegra on my Colnago and it's awesome, and I'm not a Shimano fan per se! I didn't really like the previous R6870 Ultegra either (shifters felt cumbersome, mechs looked bulky etc.), but even coming from SRAM Red eTap on a previous bike, the current Ultegra Di2 is bloody good stuff. Even better... Do what I did, junk the stock junction box, fit the M800 XT display junction box, and gain a load of extra functionality for very little extra cost!
A bit of both! It'd be GRX800 on a (whisper it) "gravel" bike. The routes I ride aren't particularly technical, but I've thoroughly enjoyed the 50/50 or 60/40 mix of road and off road riding so have decided to upgrade.
I know it's probably a bit early for feedback on GRX so was just wondering on general experience of Shimano electronic shifting.
I don't want to come over all STW but I've tinkered with my gears for about 5 minutes in the last two years, is it really worth all that extra money?
Have had both road (Ultegra) and mtb (XT) di2.
Am back to mechanical on both bikes now; the road/gravel bike because it’s a Ti frame without the routing and the mtb a carbon one, again without the routing. Didn’t really want to suffer externally taped wires on either.
Have now got XTR 12 speed mechanical on the mtb and don’t really miss the di2. Only real benefit of the Di2 was the ability to shift perfectly even when drivetrain was full of sticky muddy chalky crap and the newer mechanical still is so close it’s barely noticeable.
The road/gravel bike I kinda do except for the fact it’s now single ring and the biggest advantages of di2 for me were the front shift and the reliability in absolutely filthy conditions. The self trimming of the front mech means it’s always quiet and the ability to set it to shift front/rear as necessary to give sequential changes was pretty cool.
Without a front ring I don’t really see it as worth it now.
I’ll offer the opposite opinion. I have di2 on all my bikes now, MTB, cross and road. I live the precision of it and the reliability. It’s never once failed or needed a cable change (obvs).
Yes it’s a big investment but I’ve pieced all my stuff up as I’ve gone along for less than the price of new mechanical stuff, so I’m happy.
I am very tempted to upgrade my 2008 Scott CR1 Pro to Ultegra Di2 this year, would also mean moving from 10sp to 11sp.
I am assuming I would need to drill the odd hole in the seat tube for the battery wire etc...
I love the Di2 on my road bike. I find myself shifting more than on my mechanical bike simply because it's effortless. If I were to build a 1 x 11 gravel bike I'd go Di2 and have both buttons on the right lever go down the cassette and both on the left go up the cassette.
Do it, it’s awesome. Assuming the frame has routing for it, it’s just brilliant. Precise shifting, works well, charge lasts for ages, just awesome. The front mech trim is great if you have one, and if not, the multiple up and down shifts is bang on too.
Seriously, do it.
Excellent. Was wavering slightly due to cost, but I think it'll be worth it.
Yes 2x so think I'll really see the best of it.
Thanks all!
I really like Di2 (R9000), but I love AXS... I’ll never buy a cable operated gear system again.
I am assuming I would need to drill the odd hole in the seat tube for the battery wire etc…
The biggest problem on Scott’s of that vintage is getting from the seat tube through the bb shell as the have a sealed bb shell, possibly with a small hole to the seat tube, it can be done however. The next problem is getting to rear mech as you can’t generally bring a cable down the inside of the chain stay as it has alloy dropouts.
Anything is Di2-able with a bit of planning and thought.
I'm going to be treating myself to a new road bike in the spring and pretty sure I'll be going di2 so reading this is pretty reassuring!
It's better than mechanical, but only as it saves the need for maintenance. It won't make you faster, and isn't any better than a well set up mechanical set up when out riding
If you can afford it go for it, but in practice it's the last upgrade I'd bother to get.
Do it. I have Ultegra Di2 on my road bike and GRX 815 on my gravel bike. Wouldn't go back.
Love it. Two road bikes so fitted and it's just awesome.
Interesting feedback, may also feature for me in the next year or two, hopefully
I wouldn’t even consider buying a mechanical group set again.
Currently running Di2 on the gravel bike and AXS on the mountain bike. The Di2 has been absolutely faultless in all conditions, the AXS is too new to say but seems pretty solid so far.
Oddly Hate di2 on my 2x11 road bike but absolutely love 1x11 on my gravel commuter.
Did have a box of axs here but sent back when grx came out as the good thing with di2 is the mix and match ability amongst the stuff I’ve got.
Sram just dumped on previous 11 speed users by not being backwardly compatible.
My 10speed di hydro shifters will work with all shimanos shiniest.
The biggest problem on Scott’s of that vintage is getting from the seat tube through the bb shell as the have a sealed bb shell, possibly with a small hole to the seat tube, it can be done however. The next problem is getting to rear mech as you can’t generally bring a cable down the inside of the chain stay as it has alloy dropouts.
I sort of figure if I drill some 4mm holes in various places, I can route all the cables internally myself. I figure it's unlikely to weaken the frame that much....