[Closed] Any Cannondale Headshok experts?!

The internals should be swappable, though you'll need a castle tool to remove the cartridge.

https://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/leonardi-hdtl146l-headshock-castle-tool-2625?

Depending on the condition of the DL cartridge you may need to carefully drift the air chamber out of the fork, but be careful, the air valve cap is quite fragile.

Thanks for the info! I’ll have RSF Suspension in Plymouth swap them over- he has the tools. I just wasn’t sure it was possible.

Are carts sealed? So I could just swap them over ‘dry’? If so I might do it myself. If I’ve got to faff with oil I probably won’t due to a lack of clean areas to work.

Thanks!

yeah, the cartriges just unscrew and lift out. Most of the time the air chamber comes with them...but I'm sure RSF will sort it.

if you do end up getting stuck, then you can always replace the oil with something lighter/heavier depending on which way you want to go.
I moved from Fatty SL (with 5 click rebound adjust) to a set of fatty Ultra DL's and found the damping a bit sluggish. Ended up replacing the oil with 2.5wt which helped a lot.

Thanks for the reply mate. RSF have them now. Hopefully done this week

As above, they're ok to work on, certainly not the 'fear' that most folk say they are. More a lot of proprietary parts and a tool needed.
Mrs_oab ran one for 12 years, with light oil in, it was ace thing. Sad it went, but it did go to fellow forumite for his daughter - but was due to have rigid fork fitted.

Her xs F900SL frame and forks were something like 7lb total weight 😃

Thanks for the replies. The weight and simplicity is why I like them.

RSF was unable to swap the carts- different size internals so instead I’ve had the DLR’s serviced and spent a long time polishing- they look brilliant now. They are however far too firm. RSF used 7.5Wt oil which feels too heavy. Reading what you’ve said I think a 2.5 or 5wt (I’m 16st) would feel much better.

I’m dropping them back next week for him to adjust. I’ll recommend lighter oil.

The frame is being dipped as we speak, so it’s just some time polishing and i’ll Have a mirror finish frame and fork- still pretty retro looking.

Cheers all,

They're nothing to do with me, Google QWERTY Cycles, they know all things headshock, Cannondale & parts.

Not relevant to the questions asked, but may be to someone who stumbles across this thread one day... saved this bookmark yonks ago:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cannondale-headshok.html

An old post, I guess you’ve sort it out already. For any newbie with similar doubts, I’d like to add my 2 cents. The idea you got about keeping the old fork legs for the sake of aesthetic fit is perfectly legit and doable even without removing fork from the bike!
All that has to be done is:
- remove your original DL damper
- remove DLR Magura damper from another fork
- install DLR Magura damper into your fork, with all the components you took from the top of Magura fork.

So you’re left with a
- lockout lever
- DL damper
which you can place in this other fork and have DL version out of it.

Never do this without original tools and knowledge about assembly!
The only problem which can abort this compete process is difference in thread!
If you have DL fork with “inch thread” and Magura is “metric thread” (or vice versa), you’re doomed.

The trick with Magura damper is that parts (gaskets, o-rings) are not available. But they can be made in specialized workshop. However, Magura damper is not “much better”. It has additional rebound speed adjustment, which you will set and forget. If you like to ride in winter, rebound adjustment can actually become handy to speed it up while oil in damper gets thicker in cold. Magura also has honed air cylinder which can improve action of the fork, but if integrated air cylinder (DL) is properly lubricated and piston seal maintained, there shouldn’t be drastic difference. Main benefit is that Magura’s cylinder is replaceable if any damage occurs. 80% of damaged cylinders are damaged by improper manipulation when servicing the fork. 20% is caused by broken top-out steel coil. If DL integrated cyl got damaged, there’s no other solution than insert honed cyl like Magura (KH005). If one insists on a DLR option over DL, I would recommend (still available) original Cannondale (not Magura) DLR damper upgrade =KF264+KF266+KT031+KF211

If I were you I would rather stay satisfied with original DL setup, sell Magura fork on ebay for solid money which I would invest in a proper overhaul of original DL fork. After a proper service I would enjoy the superb performance for many years to come, of course with regular maintenance followed out responsibly.

Cheers
HSE

I’m surprised that work shop used 7.5wt oil if Cannondale manual says 5wt.
I agree that 2.5wt gives even better performance.

Cheers
HSE