Forum menu
Am I the only Luddi...
 

[Closed] Am I the only Luddite still using tubes on MTB's ?

Posts: 0
Free Member
 

60-70 miles off road every week one maybe two punctures/year

If tubes were a problem I'd do something about it and maybe if UST had caught on I would've changed


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:10 pm
Posts: 17448
Full Member
Topic starter
 

rich - you certainly do seem to ride like a fanny a fair bit.... !

I kinda new that anyway tho... ๐Ÿ™‚

Think will put a Nobby Nic on rear and then get them setup, nobeer may even show me what to do in exchange for cakes ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:13 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

i keep trying to get tubeless to work for me, but it just doesn't*.

so i use innertubes, and accept that i'll get 1 or 2 punctures a year.

(*right now, my hardtail is officially tubeless, which means that neither of the tyres are inflated when i look at them in the morning, which means either a 10minute faff, or justing using the FS, which has innertubes)

i accept that i'm doing something wrong, and that highlights my biggest criticism of tubeless: it needs to be be idiot-proof, it isn't.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:16 pm
Posts: 6442
Full Member
 

With not a great deal of riding over the last 5 months, I have still managed to have 3 unsealable punctures in tubeless tyres ๐Ÿ˜• What an absolute arse that is out on the trail - prob just gonna stick with tubeless on the fully tubeless wheels and tubed on the others - so 50% luddite


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:18 pm
Posts: 23
Full Member
 

Bizarrely I've settled with tubes on the back, tubeless on the front. 100kg rider and skinny tyres felt too soft on the back. Rarely get punctures anyway.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:21 pm
Posts: 89
Full Member
 

Still no one has mentioned slime tubes? I've been using them for ages without a problem, when I changed a tyre the other day there were 8 thorns in one tyre but the slime had stopped any punctures. "the internet" says slime tubes are rubbish but nobody says why, they work great in my limited experience.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:22 pm
Posts: 7621
Full Member
 

rich - you certainly do seem to ride like a fanny a fair bit.... !

Tis true...

Point being, tubeless is really reliable if you aren't using daft tyres or a duff setup.

I ride like a fanny all the time and have only had those three issues!

And puncture protection is a bonus the real reason for tubeless is how much nicer it feels on the bike.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:27 pm
Posts: 5942
Full Member
 

I changed to tubeless about 4 years ago. Never had a puncture since. I honestly can not think of any good reason why anyone would not run tubeless. Its a breeze.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:32 pm
Posts: 91168
Free Member
 

It does make changing tyres for conditions more difficult. But I just don't bother any more. I've found that the 29er gives me more grip, and lower pressures with tubeless also do, so I've been using butcher/purgatory combo for basically everything. I put the skinny racy smooth tyres on last spring for the chalk downs, but I probably didn't need to. I want to get two sets of wheels to make it easy to chop and change.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:36 pm
Posts: 17448
Full Member
Topic starter
 

rich - just sent to a FB message


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:37 pm
Posts: 8527
Free Member
 

It does make changing tyres for conditions more difficult.

It really doesn't.

Pop one bead off, place rag inside tyre and wipe all around. Pop other bead off, give rim another quick wipe, fit new tyre, bang it up with pop bottle/airshot/flash charger.

And then when you've got the replaced tyre off, you can go round the inside and pull out all the thorns and glass shards that would've punctured your archaic inner tube...


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:45 pm
Posts: 3066
Free Member
 

Tubeless on everything...[p]unctures are so infrequent that on short rides I don't even bother carrying a tube.

Yup, I've had to stop a couple of times and give one of my spare tubes to people who also do that...

I've had the sealant, valves and gorilla tape in the box for over a year now, keep meaning to get round to trying it on the rear wheel. But then, I remember this:
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:53 pm
Posts: 17448
Full Member
Topic starter
 

how often do you need to top up the stans fluid, typically ?


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:54 pm
Posts: 3066
Free Member
 

Genuine question - if you run tubeless successfully as above then have an unlucky incident resulting in your tyre going down - how can you use a tube as a short term get-you-home option if the inside of the tyre's like a porcupine (also as above)?


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 1:58 pm
Posts: 7621
Full Member
 

in our lovely climate every six months is plenty.

When I swap from winter to summer tyres there is generally still wet sealant inside the tyre


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 2:00 pm
Posts: 3449
Free Member
 

Still on tubes here. Punctures have never been that common for me, even when I was getting out much more than I am now.

Tubeless sounds interesting but I'm not going to get a new set of wheels just to give it a go. I've browsed a few threads about ghetto approaches that make me think it's a lot of faff given that I'm not really seeing a problem with tubes at the moment.

My current tyres are tubeless ready, so if I found myself needing to replace both wheels at once (unlikely given the current state of my riding!) maybe I'd give it a go then.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 2:07 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Been tubeless on the FS bike for 3 or 4 years now, but recently went back to tubes on the rear due to a ding on the rim. I never thought it was a night and day difference when I went tubeless, and now I've gone back I still don't think it's the revelation some people claim it is. That said, I will eventually go tubeless again because I hate fixing punctures, no matter how infrequent.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 2:11 pm
Posts: 3449
Free Member
 

Forgot to say in my last post that (like some others it seems) lower pressures for me are currently associated with nasty squirming and banging the rim, so I'm not really sold on that side of it either. I'm happy to accept it might be different somehow on tubeless, but at the moment I've no real incentive to try it unless it's effectively going to be 'free'.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 2:28 pm
Posts: 0
Full Member
 

Haven't yet found the tyre to rule all tyres so won't go tubeless yet. More of a revelation for me has been EXO, Snakeskin etc. Any extra weight no issue in the context of fewer punctures.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 2:41 pm
Posts: 91168
Free Member
 

Forgot to say in my last post that (like some others it seems) lower pressures for me are currently associated with nasty squirming and banging the rim, so I'm not really sold on that side of it either

I can still go a good deal lower than I used to without squirm. I used to run 40psi, now can get away with 25 or 30.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 3:06 pm
Posts: 91168
Free Member
 

Tubeless sounds interesting but I'm not going to get a new set of wheels just to give it a go.

You almost certainly don't need to. Stan's rim strips worked very well for me on non-tubeless rims, which is in no way ghetto. What rims do you have?


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 3:07 pm
Posts: 279
Full Member
 

I resisted for years but converted last year and now wonder why I waited - local hedge cutters and the genius who thought a hawthorn hedge next to a local bike path would be a good idea meant I was getting multiple problems every weekend. I even had to walk home after trashing two sets of tubes with multiple punctures. No punctures at all last year and running 22-24psi despite my 90kg! It was much easier than I thought and now doen sons bike with Stans conversion kit which was dead easy also.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 3:44 pm
Posts: 91168
Free Member
 

No punctures at all last year and running 22-24psi despite my 90kg

What tyre/rim combo?


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 3:52 pm
Posts: 17448
Full Member
Topic starter
 

I think I will give it a go on my new wheels. Other bike has TL Nobby Nics's on XM719's - what would I need to setup those ones ?


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 3:56 pm
Posts: 91168
Free Member
 

All you need on any wheel is rim strip and sealant. Get some CO2, so that if pumping like hell on the track pump doesn't work, the CO2 will.

I would not personally go with the tape only method, it just complicates matters. Stan's sealant is the best cos it has micro particles in it.

This is all you need: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/stans-no-tubes-standard-tubeless-kit/rp-prod38835


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 3:58 pm
Posts: 7621
Full Member
 

Stans or Joes rim strips is the easiest way.

My three tubeless set ups are

XT UST Rims
Mavic XC717 rims with Stans rimstrips
Mavic XM319 rims with Joes rimstrips


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 3:59 pm
Posts: 8527
Free Member
 

Aye, the kit Molly links to up there is what you need. I wouldn't bother with the C02 (there's some think that it doesn't react well with the sealant) as I'll come armed with an inflator...


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 4:11 pm
Posts: 91168
Free Member
 

I used CO2 for years. Didn't need it on Stan's rims with their rim strip, don't need it with Bonty TLR rims/strips and Spesh tyres, but did with some other combos before TLR was a thing.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 4:31 pm
Posts: 3449
Free Member
 

You almost certainly don't need to. Stan's rim strips worked very well for me on non-tubeless rims, which is in no way ghetto. What rims do you have?

I've got Mavic XM 319 rims. Tyres are Specialized 2.3 2Bliss Butcher and Purgatory. I think they're at the upper end width-wise for my rims.
EDIT Still on 26", if that matters!


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 6:00 pm
Posts: 6137
Full Member
 

I've got a Butcher control which has been no bother but the Purgatory control constantly wept sealant. I just got rid as I didn't rate it anyway. When I've had problems inflating I've left the wheel horizontal on top of a bucket for a while, do it for both sides then have another go at pumping them up.


 
Posted : 30/01/2017 8:13 pm
Posts: 44799
Full Member
 

Interesting point about rim width and squirming.

I do think some folk are more sensitive to this and / or prefer different compromises to others.

I've been riding with folk and seen their tyre virtually collapsing under their weight ie deformed half way to the rim but they seem happy enough with it

Another aspect is that I was completely unconvinced about the idea that it makes the tyre grippier / more conforming without a tube but even I could feel a difference when I went tubeless at the same pressures I rode with with tubes


 
Posted : 31/01/2017 8:55 am
Posts: 279
Full Member
 

molgrips - What tyre/rim combo?

On Stans Flow from 2015 so 25.5 internal width and running Ardent 2.4 Exo 3C on the hardtail. Tyres are a revelation - I bought them for summer and then have been too lazy to change, though they have coped with everything barring sticky clay/mud. Went up with a track pump and no sealant initially and took 3 days to lose pressure!
On FS running bit more in a Minion DHR2 as it is quite a bit smaller - around 27psi rear and trying out a vigilante front at 24psi on WTB i23 rim. So far seem good without any squirm or burping.


 
Posted : 03/02/2017 1:24 am
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Can't be arsed to go tubless I change tires so often i think it would be a right PITA but then I still got rim brakes on one of my bikes so a right luddite


 
Posted : 03/02/2017 7:40 am
Page 3 / 3