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I've been happy with the accu-gauge; I much prefer it to the digital ones I've used in the past (topeak and SKS, both broke). I'm careful not to chuck it around the place though
Similar to BadlyWiredDog, I use the Plaseebo. Not sure if it’s recommended for under 18s though.
Their Strahoo Fraudulnt bike computer / GPS works on similar lines and is great. I've had so many KOMs since I started using it. Highly recommended.
Pretty sure this whole thread is just Weeksy trying to justify buying these.
https://www.sram.com/en/quarq/models/wh-trwz-a1
Accu-gauge says:
[i]displays 2% accuracy between 7.5 psi and 22.5 psi and 3% accuracy across the rest of its range.[/i]
So that ain't gonna work is it!
My lad runs 20psi on the rear and 18psi on the front, neither of those register on the Park floor pump, i can use it to get to my 27-28psi pretty close, but my boys pressures don’t really work on it.
Joking aside, I use a Fabric Accubar for pressures in the same region on 650b+ - it works fine for me, screws onto the valve securely so there's no connection issue, has a bleed button, easy to read, reads from 0-40psi and so far - touch wood - I've not managed to snap the pump connection off. It's nice as it sits inline between the tyre and the track pump, so no repeated pump / gauge / pump / gauge faff. And no battery. Seems consistent with other gauges I have.
I don’t get why people don’t want things ‘correct’.
perfect is the enemy of good. You've been on here a number of times saying that when you ask laddo about changes, he just shrugs and gets on with it. He doesn't seem to be the one that needs things to be 'correct'
I’ve had the Topeka and the sks. Both shit. Accuguage is the easiest to get a reading from but I don’t use it often. I *think* the issue with most is that the spray of tubeless jizz they get when you attach the, messes them up.
I attached a £5 low pressure gauge onto an sks rennkompressor pump. You want a Guage that has your target pressure around the middle of the dial as accuracy goes off at tge extremes (I think mine tops out at 60psi so it’s good in the 15-30 range I’m using). Because it’s on a pump with a long hose the jizz shouldn’t get beyond the hose and because it’s on a pump it’s one device to get the right pressure not two.
He doesn’t seem to be the one that needs things to be ‘correct
No he doesn't, you're right there.
Doesn't mean I can't make thing as close to accurate as I can though. I'm not sure why it feels like people think I'm in the wrong for trying to do things right ☺️
I’m not sure why it feels like people think I’m in the wrong for trying to do things right ☺️
Because this is STW and it’s Thursday, (I think) and someone thinks you’re wrong and there will be some else who thinks they’re wrong but in a differently wrong way.
that's ok. because two wrongs make a right!
I’m not sure why it feels like people think I’m in the wrong for trying to do things right
No one is saying you are wrong for wanting to get it 'right'. We are all saying that your expectations for what is 'right' are too high for the cheap gauges you are buying (you didn't use the word cheap, but you are buying cheap).
Better, more expensive alternatives are available, but the majority of users don't want or need better.
The bigger issue seems to be that the commercially available gauges keep breaking and that generally presta valves are very difficult to take pressure readings from without bleeding lots of air off. Some of the responses further up would seem to be useful in that respect, some recommendations for types of gauge with a air chuck that is easy to use, how not to get sealant in the gauge and advice on using a in-line gauge on the pump so that you don't lose air checking after pumping.
Excellent post
We are all saying that your expectations for what is ‘right’ are too high for the cheap gauges you are buying
I'm not... I'm saying a small %age difference in a psi reading just isn't worth obsessing about. The difference could be the amount of air coming through the valve, the connection between the gauge and the valve, the ambient temperature... your kid could have had a poo one morning making him fractionally lighter on the bike that day.. do you weigh him every time he races?
Stumbled across theses...
https://www.efficientvelo.com/tools/bleedin-gauge
They look like they would fit the OP's requirement.
Interestingly, these are the 1st gauges I've seen that mention being designed to deal with sealant, which is a problem that most gauges deal with by saying "dont get sealing in them".
I was about to push the buy button, but thought I'd revisit my track pump gauge. So this morning, after about 20 years of owning it, I've finally worked out how to get a consistent reading from it. Very much a doh! moment I have to admit. Super happy though, as no need for a separate gauge now.
🤜
Two things:
The measurement system includes you. The way you use the gauge affects repeatability.
Electronic gauges are affected significantly by ambient temperature, especially cheap ones as they won't be thermally compensated. Your pressure reading outside in the winter will not be the same as summer.
Weeksy, I use the Topeak D2 and like many I found it has worked well for several years. There is a knack of using it with Presta valves, but it is easily learned with a bit of practice. I liked it enough to buy another one for my car tyres.
the huge number of 1* reviews isn’t exactly filling me with happiness
It has 22 1* vs 312 5* - that's an excellent rating, what are you expecting? If you gave out free money a few people would still give a 1* review!
The measurement system includes you. The way you use the gauge affects repeatability.
This is also very true, to adjust the pressure by +/-2-3psi on an analogue gauge, just close one eye and step left or right a bit.
accurate, consistent and reliable presta guage ?
None of them?
Some might be vaguely repeatable but seeing as none of the bicycle gauges I have seen have an accuracy statement (and definition of what that includes) I wouldn't pay a huge amount of attention the figure apart from using it in a "X feels OK and I don't clang the rims - use X again" manner.
Saying it's display's resolution is to .1 PSI is meaningless, without the accuracy being known.
I work at the same company as Supersessions in a Custom Product/Tech Support/etc role and I'm surprised the likes of big factory teams haven't looked at this particularly for shock/fork pressures.
Surely what matters is getting the tyres at the right pressure for what is being ridden irrespective of what any cheap ass bike pressure gauge shows.
I trained as an control electrical engineer and as part of my apprenticeship I spent a fair chunk of time in our BS / EN certified test lab testing and calibrating stupidly expensive pressure gauges and measuring equipment, each and every one required adjusting every time they were tested.
As said above consistency in readings is more important than actual readings. So what if the gauge reads 30psi every time, if that 30psi feels right on the day and in the given conditions then go with it, just make a mental note of what actually works and forget about the numbers.
Don’t forget that all these gauges are measuring with respect to atmospheric pressure which can vary by the best part of 1 PSI. (Certainly 0.5 PSI from day to day.)
So if you set your tyre pressures on a Friday when it’s wet and windy, they’ll be softer when you go out on Sunday once the weather has settled and the sun has come out.
I think a reasonable solution here would be a track pump with a lower max pressure
I can see pumps that top out at 30 psi and 60psi
What I’ve learnt is that track pumps have the advantage that nothing goes from wheel back towards the valve. So sealant won’t muck things up
But I seem to be able to get 20 rear 18 front just fine with my joe blow 2
I bought an SKS. They're only £19.99 in Decathlon and i needed to head there anyway.