Please help out with an office debate.
a) Roof mounted
b) Tailgate rack mounted
c) Towing ball mounted.
Pros and cons please.
I'm going for a) Access to boot, no overhang, doesn't "bounce" like a strap mounted tail gate rack and good rear visibility.
C. I like being able to see them, and the fact that the rack is actuall clamped to something.
A. Out of the way, still have access to the boot.
No chance. Always in the boot.
c) - I've come too close to height restrictors in car parks with option a) to make me comfortable with it as a long term solution.
In the boot is not an option.
a)
On roof for me, no problem what so ever use quality rack and you'll be fine.
I've used Thule ones for years carrying bikes all over the place and no issues.
I would prefer a tow bar mounted rack but as I have a company car they won't let me fit one so on top they go.
As andrewh I would love a van to use for biking but that would be a luxury that's miles off
a, out of the way , quick n easy and still get in the boot .
c, never , prob the most common road accident is a rear ender .
C. much more stable and safe. Plus I can still get in the boot too.
Until we got the 110, on the roof of the BM.
So easy to fit and nice and secure too.
No issues with not seeing the bike - we have a panoramic (glass) sunroof!
a)
Did
b)
for many a year
recently got
a)
and soooo much easier and quicker
prob the most common road accident is a rear ender
= New bike!
C for me, but in reality always in the boot.
a) For reasons stated above.
A as I don't have a towball and I have found it to be more secure than a boot-mounted rack.
Prefer the bike inside though but this isn't really practical in my car if more than 2 people and 2 bikes need to go.
A for me too. The only downside I have found is the decrease in fuel economy.
C. I've used Thule models for a few years with no problems and they can tilt for boot access.
I'm going for a) Access to boot, no overhang, doesn't "bounce" like a strap mounted tail gate rack and good rear visibility.
More wind resitance/drag, worse fuel ecomonomy. On wet weather days you may as well just blast all your bearings with a jet wash until they have no grease left. Momentary lapse on concentration with overhead barriers/trees/multi-storeys. Bikes still on display when parked.
Any rear-mounted system all of the above (although drag less bad and a bit more room for overhead stuff) plus danger from rear-end shunt/ parking prang.
If you are sure the boot really isn't an option get a roof box instead of a bike rack, put the stuff from the boot in their and put the bike in the boot.
A). Seen bikes fall off rear mounted cariers due to straps coming un-done. Not good.
A) for me too but would rather have C) if I didn't have a company car.
In the boot for me.
Always used d) - bike in car, until my current car was sold to me with roof bars. Bought some roof carriers (a) and off I went. Wahoo!
- Soon found that taking the carriers on & off was a pfaff & I didn't want to leave them on, as fuel economy matters when doing 600 miles + per week.
- Also found that parts of my bike I'd never had an issue with before started showing signs of corrosion - QR skewers, stem bolts etc. I guess from being stuck in the full blast of the elements at 70mph.
- Fuel economy also suffered. Normal run to Bristol for weekend at sister's - average fuel economy nudging 60mpg. Holiday in Cornwall with both bikes on roof, fuel economy down to about 46mpg....
So, went back to d) - putting bike in car, unless I have to take mine & her indoors, then the carriers go back on.
I think with my next car I'd be tempted to get a tow ball & one of those carriers that either slides or drops out of the way to allow boot access.
C but in the boot soon as the salt spray experienced by the toball mount rack is seriously trashing my bike 👿
A) Pros: Nice and secure, access to boot
Cons: Fuel economy, esp when "pressing on" I got 19mpg on the way back from Drumlanrig one day 😯
I've had roof mounted carriers for around three years. Done a lot of UK driving and trips to and from Les Gets/Morzine. The fuel economy thing is an issue but if there's you and a few mates going out generally we split the fuel costs anyway. My Oct Est does around 47-49 mpg, with 3 bikes on the roof with people and kit it does 39-40 mpg so not the end of the world.
Getting back from a ride and putting the bikes straight on the roof and out of ther way is a good feature too, yes the car sometimes gets a bit dirty but even I (and anyone who knows me will maybe be shocked by this) don't mind this.
Security is an issue, but to be honest I don't feel safe leaving my bike anywhere, so I don't. Someone stays with the car if we go anywhere or its 'in sight'.
There is always the 'hit low things issue'. But i've seen enough people reverse into things/cars/people with toe bar mounted racks to realise that it just takes some considered driving to avoid this.
They all have there plus and minus points, but i'm pleased with what i got.
Hope this helps
Option C, plus I can access the boot.
C
C. Most secure and highly visible. With tilt so you can get into the boot.
B. Cars aren't designed for B plus you usually cover the lights>
A. Although rear enders are the most common accident (hence risk with C), I've known too many people hit height restrictors. At least with a rear end accident you'll get money for the bikes.
Can I vote for any as long as we made it! If I had to choose I would say tow ball though.
A for me: Had Heckler and BigHit on roof with front wheels off mounted using 20mm forkup device.
Like the idea of C but not sure what the pendulum effect is on Subaru with big bikes and big consideration it was twice as expensive.
Option A
Don't have a tow ball, don't trust boot racks.
Would rather stick a manky bike on the roof than in the boot.
b) always on the car. OK only because I don't really use the boot. Would like a better quality carrier tho - e.g. Saris Bones. I cable lock bike to the rear towing loop with a padlock. Use straps with a "cotton reel" that fits inside the tailgate, rather than the dodgy metal hooks that clamp over the edge (and can fall off). Very secure.
I have a solution for a) but the fuel consumption is high and my roof bars don't grip the gutters securely enough for my liking. Bars & carriers are also a pain in the butt to remove. No easy way to secure apart from looping a cable lock through multiple bikes together when parked.
c) is a great option, but more expensive
C-- same reasons as others have posted. I have a Raxter Racks 4- bike version and a Honda Ridgeline truck. I wanted a Twinny Load rack but came across this one for a good deal. Sure, I can get hit from the rear by another driver (a good chance of that happening here in the USA) but that's okay because they'll just buy me a new bike.
Hitch mounted also allows me to have full unrestricted access to the truck bed. If I need to tow something, I have a set up that allows me to mount the bikes in the bed while the trailer is hooked up or I can slide 'em in the back of the truck cab, if there's not 4-5 people with me.
The only thing that puts me off C is its not viable to leave it on all the time (I think)
[i]not sure what the pendulum effect is on Subaru with big bikes[/i]
as long as you don't exceed the 'nose weight' limit of the towball you'll be fine.
Having towed 1300kg of caravan all over the country puting 70kg of rack and bikes on the back isn't a great concern...
I nearly always carried mine in the boot when I had a hatchback but the current car doesn't have room and the only real place for them is on the roof. The Thule holders I'm using seem very good and more secure than the tailgate mount I've used in the past.
c (I've carried four adult bikes on the rack with no major handling problem (diesel focus estate)(and yes I did check weights!)
plus points: ease of loading bikes, stable, seems to have less effect on mpg than roof, I regard the rack as an extra crumple zone with extra visibility-enhancing lights on it
minus points for: expensive if you have tilt to get at the boot but I just get access through the car by tilting the seats instead
1, In the van
2, In the car boot/backseats
3, Rack on the back (tailgate mounted)
One problem with roof racks apart from fuel consumption is that dirt falls onto your car.
However a roof rack can be used for many other applications
One problem with roof racks apart from fuel consumption is that dirt falls onto your car
This is an annoyance, not a problem.
C for me. I've tried every other method and now will only use towbar mounted racks when with the car.
A roof mounted rack; BUT this is very much a second preference to having bike in back of estate car be bike whole or partially disassembled , ie front wheel off
As for dirt falling on car; depends on your car upkeep, a wash a year is OK and if it rains enough teh dirt washes off teh roof 🙂
used to be b. but I never felt secure with this method, then I got a. and used for a while until I dropped one. I aslo felt a bit restricted with the height.
Now d. in the car everytime.
[i]The only thing that puts me off C is its not viable to leave it on all the time (I think)[/i]
The only time I take my hitch rack off is when I'm towing a trailer, which is only a few days a year. My rack folds up pretty tight to the truck.
See here for pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49552511@N00/sets/72157625513819518/
D. In the back of the pick up.
c, but on a towbar flange mounted rack, not on the towball itself. better mpg, can be quickly removed and slung in the boot once parked up and bikes dismounted. some types lean forwards to allow access to the boot without removing the bikes, I just pull the back seats forward if I need something. I've got the witter one and it can take 3x adult bikes with careful mounting.
C all the way for me - on a flange-mounted wheel support rack (if they're not in the boot)
Was (B) with a thule rack
Now (C) with a thule rack
Both secure and easy to fit/use
I got some Halford Advanced carriers, which were great, until I put 140mm travel forks on my Enduro and now it doesn't fit, so D.
done all three over the years.
if a company bmw or merc I used A - because the company paid the fuel, they didn't like tow balls & the german premium cars have 'screw into the roof' roofbars which do not slide about & scratch the roof like 'clamp on' roof bars.
on the wifes car: C (witter)
because nothing touches the paintwork, the MPG is better with bikes behind rather than on top & on her CR-V you can still get in the boot with a bar mounted witter.
HTH
a) all the way now for me. Would prefer in the back of the car for security but currently in a saloon and a bit of a faff to load/unload. Used to use rear rack but was never happy it was safely secured. Roof is best bet for me.
c) Tow ball mounted.
+ Better fuel economy (I'm convinced with the old Subaru Legacy the economy went UP with bikes on the back - reduced drag?
+ Easy to attach bikes
+ Don't trash bikes driving into things
+ See bikes all the time
+ East to take off (1 bolt)
+ Comes with lights and number plate
+ Looks cool
+ Much easier than roof mounting on a 4x4!
B is excellent for covering up the number plate to protect against speed cameras.
if up to 2 bikes, in the car. Over this, they go on the roof. Use thule 591s, they're brilliant. Easy to put the carriers on and off, and the bikes go on and off v quick.
Cons, when robbers see the roof carriers, they know there are probably bikes to be nicked in the house/shed/garage. That's why I like being able to take them off and remove them easily, but that's my fault for living in crime central
C for me, on either car.
And probably the one thats safe at pretty much any speed, +135mph (on the speedo) 😳
B is excellent for covering up the number plate to protect against speed cameras.
Also excellent for a nice fine - obscured number plate!!
If I can't get the bike/s in the car, I still go for A, despite having trashed car and bike driving under a height restrictor. Luckily my house insurance paid out for the bike damage under accidental damage, and I've just got my nicely re-built Prius back from the garage. Sticking bikes on the roof is just so easy, but clearly fuel consption and abscent minded damage are both downsides.
Used to be B on rear though never very certain of safety of it,now using A on roof using a Thule set of bars with Thule fork mounted racks very secure but even i noticed a drop in mpg which is fine on local jaunts but on longer runs to the valleys i try and car share to share fuel costs, usually get around 60-62mpg but with 2 bikes on over to Afan i was getting early 50's or so .
If i had an estate it would be in the back for me i guess?
B is excellent for covering up the number plate to protect against speed cameras.Also excellent for a nice fine - obscured number plate!!
If you've covered it properly they won't know who it is to send the fine to... 🙂
In the car for me most of the time, otherwise A. I will always have a car that gives both options.
Multipurpose rack using thule 591s, when not in use they take up minimal space in the shed.
'A' all the way!!!!
Quite a lot of roof mounted racks seem to allow a disturbing amount of oscillation to build up in the bikes, I have a fascination watching them wobbly violently on the top of a car going along the 3rd lane of the M4.......
Oh, d) all the time.
C) towball mount thule euro for me for all the reasons given above plus,
Its a much better way to secure an unconventional FS frame design with awquard hydroformed down tubes and FS linkages that just dont work with a roof mount system.
If somebody drives into the back of me, its their insurance claim and I get a new bike. If your using a roof mount and forget the bikes are on top, Its you that picks up the bill!
I can remove the towball mount rack in about 30 seconds and I dont advertise the fact I have bikes all year round.
Much happier being able to see and check on the bikes as Im traveling. The wobble on option A, and the poor clamping on non round tubes just scares me.
Obvious downside is the shear cost of having a towball fitted and the racks themselves are quite costly.
Wobble doesn't seem to be such an issue if you use the fork mount roof rack. Like this.......
http://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php?16180
I use the 'a' method but need to change the carrier to a fork mounted one due to what^^ he said, anyone of you wonderful people fancy swapping?
If you reckon strap mounted carriers "bounce" then you're mounting them seriously wrong, they should be rock solid. And on many cars you can still access the boot if you're careful. Plus, this is by far the cheapest option if you don't already have a roof rack or tow ball, especially since on some cars you can mount the bikes with no need for a lighting board.
So B has always been my choice unless it doesn't suit the car, where I've used the others.
I don't like roof mounts. They cane fuel at motorway speeds, they wobble in crossings and I'm a forgetful sod and I knew at some point I'd drive into a car park.
Interestingly the last strap carrier I bought was in France and they're now hard to find over here, which I blame on idiots not fitting them properly.
C for me as its easiest. I have a thule towball carrier. it goes on in about a minute 😀
i couldnt have bikes on my roof as my car is too high. i wouldnt be able to reach them. cant have them in the car either as no room, already got pushchair and stuff in there.
jane
Used to carry the bikes in bits in the back of the Golf, and basically trashed the interior.
The we got an 850 estate, and found it actually wasnt much bigger inside - less height just a bit longer inside, and trashed the inside of that too.
Then i got a Thule 3 bike towbar mounted rack from Halfords (cheaper than wiggle - only about 100 quid including light board) and that was a lot better. I could just throw the whole rack into the boot when we got there. I would not trust myself not to forget my pride and joy on a roof mounted rack. Main problem is what to do if you want to go to the pub for lunch because the bikes are all on show. Even locking them dosnt stop you seat posts etc going missing.
Now i have an old VW T4 van and it is absolutely brilliant, highly recommended. All problems solved, and i do not miss the car at all.
A for me.
I have used B previously but didn't like the way the rack moved about on the back of the car. No matter how much i tightened the strapps it would still move about.
Have had no trouble with a thule roof bar mont blank cycle carrier combo. Sure the economy and performance of the car goes down a bit when the bikes are on there but i feel they are more secure than before so it is a price i am willing to pay.
tow bar mounted was going to prove too expensive for me so although it would probably be the way i would go in the future with a different car i ruled it out for my polo.
Tow-bar rack.
Too forgetful to even consider roof-mounted.