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What's a good starting point?
Tyres are Minion 2.6" and Rekon 2.6"
29mm rims
25
For me but it depends on so much, your weight, the bikes weight, the terrain you ride on and ultimately how you want the bike to feel. The only way is to experiment
I run 13psi up front (3" WTB Bridger) and 16psi out back (2.8" WTB Trailblazer) on a rigid Solaris. If I go much higher, say 2 or 3psi more at either end then I'm bouncing off things.
As rocketdog says there are a lot of variables, just find a short loop you can experiment on, ideally one with a variety of terrain.
First be tubeless (whole point of + tyres is lower pressures and tubes will pinch flat)
Start at 1 bar / 14 psi
If you are getting sidewall wobble in corners go up
If you want even mooar grip go lower.
I ran 3" nobby nicks on a steel rigid at about 8-10 happily.
Now on 2.6" nobby's with suspension at 12-14.
I'm probably 90kg suited and booted with backpack.
Not the most empirical method but I tend to start off with too much pressure and then incrementally let air out until things feel about right - I feel it's not difficult to become adept at squeezing tyres to approximate good pressures- Also tyre carcasses make a massive difference to what works for me - Its a fools game running super low pressure on thin sidewalls . .
16/18 psi for me on WTB's
I run 13psi up front (3″ WTB Bridger) and 16psi out back (2.8″ WTB Trailblazer) on a rigid Solaris. If I go much higher, say 2 or 3psi more at either end then I’m bouncing off things.
As rocketdog says there are a lot of variables, just find a short loop you can experiment on, ideally one with a variety of terrain.
I am obviously a lot heavier than you as a Trailblazer took more like 19psi on a 35mm rim to stop it rolling on heavy corners. 3.0 Nobby Nic at about 17psi on the front. Very small window of about 2psi between pinging off things or wallowy and dangerous in fast corners.
I’d expect a lot lower than 25, more like the pressures quoted here but starting high and working down through the course of a ride and then checking where you ended up is a good way to find your own base pressure as there are too many unknown variables to really allow prediction.
18 on 2.8 Trailblazers, full rigid, but I'm a bit of a fatty. On wide rims though, and tubeless
Oh, and get a decent digital gauge if you don't have one - the number is maybe not massively important, but it should give you repeatability.
What rocketdog says, too many variables, like asking about saddles or tyres.
9/12 front/rear dhf/dhr 2.8 on 40mm. 75kg ish riding a mix of loam ( ie mud! ), flint, roots. but yeah, a decent gauge to know where you are and know you can get back there is very useful IME. you can get away with the hand test on regular tyres and put a bit more in when you start smacking it off stuff, but that isn't going to work if you want the best out of +.
I run 13psi up front (3″ WTB Bridger) and 16psi out back (2.8″ WTB Trailblazer) on a rigid Solaris. If I go much higher, say 2 or 3psi more at either end then I’m bouncing off things.
As rocketdog says there are a lot of variables, just find a short loop you can experiment on, ideally one with a variety of terrain.
Yeah, pretty much this. Except I am selling my Trailblazers because I have something more aggro on there.
14 front, 12 rear, 2.8" Nobby Nics on full sus eBike with a fat lad on board.