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check your forks.... we had some rebas that were cast wrong and made wheels look shagged.
Machine built, hand finished IIRC. ZTR's are a piece of piss to set up tubeless though.
Key thing is to suspend the wheel horizontally on its side on a bucket or washing up bowl, then you can pinch the tyre to seal any holes. Worked first time for me with a crappy track pump.
oh and tj - you are wrong on this.
i wish people would stop thinking its about the weight.
its about the decreased pressures you can run and the benefit of grip.
in the alps, the tubeless gang were all perfect all week. the tubed guys were the ones we were stopping for.
and when have you ridden with tubeless people and had to stand about waiting? the tyres go on and off as easy as normal ones.
in fact i am willing to lend you my pro 2's on 4.1's with a joes kit to show you how awesome tubeless is.
just about every other pneumatic tyre in the work is tubeless... why do we tube bikes?
my key was to inflate the tire using a good quality track pump ...no bother using standard SPS non ust small block8s
once they leaked , stuck in 59ml of stans
reinflated
listened for the leaks and shook the tire to get the sealant to seal the holes ....
Mark both my other sets of wheels that are fine in other bikes are fine in the forks and frame - the hope wheels are just as offset in my other forks (all be in 29er forks) but spacings the same.
Its a 5/10 min job for me to sort it but it would be annoying if i was unable to do it and it meant another trip to the bike shop.....
Rode with a guy in the alps who could repair a tubeless leak quicker than changing a tube. He just used an awl with some rope covered in rubber solution jabbed through the hole, then trimmed off.
Rode with a guy in the alps who could repair a tubeless leak quicker than changing a tube. He just used an awl with some rope covered in rubber solution jabbed through the hole, then trimmed off.
TJ - you may be correct, but at least I'm willing to try things out. If I don't try, I'll never know what I might be missing.
Mark - Several times. The infamous luke twice, Tree once,
Constant threads on here with folk having troubles with them
I hate the feel of low pressure tyres squirming around and am not troubled by pinch flats anyway cos I run at reasonable pressures. I have tubeless ready rims but I like to change tyres depending on where I am riding
I see the point if you ride where punctures are an issue. Punctures are not an issue for me
Why do we tube bikes? KISS
markd
check your forks.... we had some rebas that were cast wrong and made wheels look shagged.
I have an 09 Reba with a similar issue. The wheel is hand built from Merlin and looks fine in a different fork. If the fork's been cast wrong does it need replacing??
druid, yer always up here in the mountains.. i would go for a tubeless rim and a tubeless tyre if i were you.its possible to inflate 819s/contis from around 10psi with no fluid if everythings clean enough.this could be handy when yer stuck on the top of a mountain (IF anything should happen)
forget ghetto with the stuff you ride/places you find yerself in ;O)
currently i have a bit of fluid in them just incase i get a bit of glass or thorns (from the highland cacti)
I struggle to follow the terminology used for tubeless never having tried it, but the reason that I would consider trying to work it all out is if it really does help with punctures - I am plagued by them, every ride without fail. So - does it really help reduce them?
How do reduced pressures help in our climate - doesn't a lower pressure cause the tyre to "stick" in mud more? Or is that not the case?
ononeorange
Tubeless should virtually stop punctures by virtue of the sealant that is in the tyre. No innertube to split either.
Huge holes in the tyres might not seal but you probably won't even notice thorns.
The effect of reduced pressures is much debated and rather debatable.
Tubeless can help if you're getting loads of punctures. In my real world reality, (as opposed to forum reality 🙂 ) Tubeless increases the puncture free time by about 2-3 times what you'd get with regular tubes. In other words if you go 3 months in between punctures then expect 6-9 months with tubeless. Having said that it depends...I had 3 punctures in 3 rides using XC single ply tyres run tubeless, and every other tubeless rider I ride with regularly has had failures so from a personal POV, I'm not convinced by the claims of absolute puncture prof-ness.
Lower pressure helps by giving better rolling resistance, and more grip. Again, personally I run my tyres at 35 psi, get plenty of grip, don't really need/want to go much faster, and don't suffer pinch flats much.
Anyone who claims 'absolute puncture proofedness' is just being too enthusiastic.
Tubeless with sealant greatly improves resistance to punctures in general but by no means makes you immune.
When I shifted to tubeless I experimented with a good few combinations and different methods - after the first few air burps running the pressure too low, I didn't get a puncture for nearly 5 years. In the last 4 months on the same terrain I've suffered three episodes of cut tyres. One sidewall that wouldn't repair and two tread area rips, both of which were fixed with anchovies trail side, although one later failed overnight in my garage.
Thorn punctures [i]are[/i] virtually eliminated.
One thing that doesn't get mentioned much on tubeless discussions is lightweight tubes with latex added. If all you're bothered about is punctures, a lightweight tube that you can charge with 40-50ml of sealant with still probably weigh a bit less that a standard tube and will be virtually immune to thorn punctures. It might be slightly more prone to pinch flats though.
Thanks, TJ, Nickc and officer.
yeah, and pinch flats is one of the biggest reasons most folk would go tubeless.