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Ooooh, what's this mod then? Sounds like a good answer!
While I'm here, Angleset vs off-set bushes, any thoughts? Off-set is easier to remove and adjustable, but issues with wear? What do most people go for?
Angleset. Offset bushings are shit, rotate and wear....then again there have been issues with anglesets.
Also, I don't think Canecreek do a 44mm 1.5 tapered angleset. There is another company that say they do, the owner posted on here. I'll try and dig up the post.
I gave a link to the mod, it's a little spacer in the assembly the allows the spring to compress more - as the U-turn springs are capable of compressing beyond 160mm of travel. I'll contact Loco at somepoint as to regards to whether he can machine me the spacers.
My goal is to get my Mega to 31/32lb with a CCDB on the back and a 170mm u-turn Lyrik at the front with an Avy Cart. I'm going to round the upgrade off with a pair of 35mm wide syntace wheels and to lose some weight a 42 10 speed rear cassette from Italy for ghetto single chain ring XXI - it'll be great. A lightish poppy mini-dh bike that is fully coil damped with buttery smooth old school marzocchi style travel.
Yeah, thanks, I've just seen the link now, will investigate further. Keep me in the loop re Loco please, I imagine it's more of a goer if there's more demand and I would definitely want one or two spacers. I know a few people that would also be interested.
Works Components do suitable angle-adjusting headsets, disadvantage is you need to decide what angle you want, whereas with the offsets you can experiment a bit more. At £40 a set it might be worth using them to find out what angle headset you want perhaps. Offsets drop the BB too, which might be useful on some frames or a disadvantage on others. I don't know what people are running though. Offsets on my GT Fury seem to trash DU bushes quite quickly, but the offsets themselves (titanium) haven't been damaged.
Had so many problems with offset bushings in my old mans nomad, rotation, the tolerance was way out etc.
Do they not just rotate by default into the slackest orientation?
Does anyone do an ISCG05 front mech mount and does anyone know how this would pedal?
🙂
No, one of them rotated downwards (wtf) into a position that made it half a degree slacker instead of fully slack. We measured it, it definately was not the slackest position.
The TR250....is a beast. You could...theoretically.... build it to a decent weight with air shocks front and rear when setup in 160mm mode. But I seem to remember the wheelbase is then actually shorter than a Mega...which kind of defeats the point.
I did think about going down that route! Stunning looking bike though.
Rocky - the offer of demoing me covert still stands - not out any evenings this week as i've been out in the day. Fwiw my covert has come out lighter the the remedy 9 it replaced despite nearly all of the parts being swapped over and rides a lot better, if you know what i mean.
I know a lad who's stuck a reverb on his 250 - 66s & a CCDB - manages fine up hill. Don't see him going down
Don't tell me stuff like that FFS! That TR250 makes NO sense surely?? I'll have to keep telling myself I DO need a granny ring and not one of these mega-mega range rear cassettes instead. It's too heavy, definitely too heavy. FFS!
Will give you a shout if I fancy a go out on the Covert, to be honest I was looking at them because I wasn't expecting a refund and they're the best 160 frames the shop sells. I'll probably be out with the club a week on Tuesday if you fancy popping out?
Let me put it this way, unless you're an uber strong rugby player type then it'll be a bastard. I prefer exploring and my Totem'd 36lb SX Trail used to really piss me off. The 2.5 dual ply's didn't help though.
I can keep up with 90 percent of hardtail riders when I'm out on my Mega, sporting a 2.35 Single-Ply super tacky High Roller up front and a 60A High Roller at the back.
I could never EVER do that with my SX - it was murderous - even with a freaking granny. Plus when you do ride such a rig everyone expects you to be a hardcore Josh Bender type....instead if your not doing 20 foot drops then you'll feel like a freeride walt.
However the silly 40 tooth cassettes make a lot of sense to me - nice way to drop nearly a lb of the weight and enjoy the jumps more!
I used to hack a Bullit with 888s on all over the place, that pedalled like shit but I coped ok. TR250 would be a little heavier but should pedal a bit better I'd think. Maybe the Bullit was steep enough to reign the travel back in. One thing though, loads of travel meant loads of grip on technical climbs!
Don't worry I won't be going for the 250, it's not far of double the frame weight, would have worse gearing and would only be marginally better on the downs, just not worth the trade offs.
That Tr250 does look nice, half tempted to buy it and some Boxxers. Then through all my compnents onto it when going to the Alps.
Hmmmmmmmmm.....temptation. Thanks a lot Paul, my bank account might be considerably worse off tommorow.
Bwaarp - don't look at the bottle rockets then. Can take anything from 160 to 200 I believe.
BottleRockets rule. Fact
Did 2 Whistler trips on them.
So much fun on jumpy trails
Someone up there said that cane creek dont do an angleset for 1.5 inch tapered steerers.
This is not true, they do one, and I have it installed on my Mojo HD (ZS44/28.6 | EC49/40)
Go for the Mojo HD.
Call me biased but here is what I would buy.
[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nicolai-Helius-AM-frame-medium-black-ano-Fox-RP23-/230925027544?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D6072672078295308459%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D230925027544%26 ]Nicolai Helius AM[/url]
Here is my three year old one built up for DH fun.
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In a more XC/Enduro/AM mode
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Bwaarp... there is a package from Avalanche Racing about to be delivered to my house 
Care you guess whats in it?
Based on what you've said I'd recommend a Meta SX
Bwaarp... there is a package from Avalanche Racing about to be delivered to my house
Git! 😀 Let me know what it's like!
Someone up there said that cane creek dont do an angleset for 1.5 inch tapered steerers.
That was in regard to tapered steerers in straight 44mm headtubes - you have a 44/49mm headtube.
You can fit tapereds and straight 1.5's into a Mega's 44mm headtube - you just can't use a cane creek angleset with them.
What do we know about the Cannondale Claymore and Jekyll, have found both at billy bargain price so could buy a complete bike rather than the frame. Both look intersting, just looking for reviews and some geometry info....
Bumpity, bump! Does anyone have experience of either the Cannondale Claymore or the Jekyll? Both are available half price and about the price of building up a Mega. Both could be decent options, but difficult to get any objective opinions on them. I guess they haven't sold well over here because they are expensive at RRP, but google isn't throwing up much either.
I think you're right Paul, those are pretty rare beasts here and reviews are scarce on the net. I doubt they are bad bikes though as Cannondale have good heritage in Enduro/AM with the animal Mark Weir racing for [url= http://www.chopmtb.com/2012/11/07/race-bike-mark-weirs-cannondale-jekyll/ ]them[/url]. See also[url= http://www.chopmtb.com/2012/10/10/race-bike-jerome-clementzs-cannondale-jekyll/ ] Jerome Clementz[/url]
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Looks pretty good dousn't it 8)
Are the shocks reliable on those?
I wouldn't count on it. Get something with a standard shock - higher parts availability etc.
I've never had an issue with any shock and the reviews don't seem to mention any shock issues. I'm sure Cannondale would look after me anyway, so I'm not going to rule it out on those grounds. Leaning towards the Jekyll, Lyriks done to 170mm and slack it out by a degree or so at the headset. Dropper post. Should be pretty versatile, which I like.
Anyone want to buy some 150mm 32s with a 1.5" steerer? Thought not!
Propain Tyee so i know whether to buy one next winter...
paulrockliffe-any info on where the Jekylls are going 1/2 price?
They're on Paul's Cycles, they have some pretty good deals on Cannondales and Giants at the moment. I've pulled the pin on the Jekyll, so should be able to report if it's any good shortly....
The seals will go one day. I guess you can always replace the shock though.
The geo isn't so cut out for DH as the mega either (68 degree head angle etc) - but I guess at that price it's a decent buy.
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ive got a brand new nomad for sale,£1400 with Fox ctd or dhx5.0 air.
Not for me thanks, not a fan of the Nomad and already spent up. Bought most of the bits needed to sort the Jekyll out - stronger wheels, Lyriks, wider bars, bashguard, Saint brakes. Just need a dropper and an angleset and it'll be sorted.
Good luck finding an angleset for the Jekyll.It uses an integrated headset 😕 I'd speak to works components.
Weir rides an xl (despite being 6')just to get a long enough tt and 180mm 36's to try and slacken the head angle.
Does'nt seem to bother Clementz too much though 😀
Make sure you get the shock serviced very regularly.....words of advice direct from mojo.
Not for me thanks, not a fan of the Nomad and already spent up. Bought most of the bits needed to sort the Jekyll out - stronger wheels, Lyriks, wider bars, bashguard, Saint brakes. Just need a dropper and an angleset and it'll be sorted.
Man, you might as well have just bought the right frame in the first place. A Mega with an air shock and coil shock, with coiled lyriks would have been a much smaller headache. Then you can still ride when the air shock invariably blows a seal and has to go in for a service. You can even service Monarchs yourself but I doubt you could with that complicated shock! It would have had the right geometry out the box and the frame is lighter!
Crap, I thought it was a normal 1.5" headtube! Any idea what the specification of the internal 1.5" thing is, it isn't listed on Cane Creek's calculator. The headangle won't be far off what I'm after, but I need a reducer headset to run 1.1/8th forks even if Works can't sort out an offset for me.
Oh yeah, I've just been looking at the lyrik 170 mod you linked to, do you know the dimensions of the spacer at all? From what I can see I'm not sure if I need a spacer in one or both legs and exactly what the various dimensions are. I think I understand how it works and how to put it together, but I could do with being 100% on the dimensions before I get some machined up.
Thanks!
Distance selling act, you have 7 days to send it back....after you receive it to get your money back with no questions asked. I'd suggest you do that and get the right bike for the right job Paul.
Angle sets come with their own problems eg horrible knocking etc
I've got no idea about the dimensions, sorry man - except that it should be 10mm long I think.
From what I can tell it's 12mm diameter, 8mm hole through the middle, but then from the pictures it looks to be longer than 10mm and it quotes 174mm travel, so could be 14mm? Trying to wade thtrough the thread to see if I can work out any more than that.
You can go up to 174mm of travel, but I would keep it at 170 and no more,
Two reasons
1) It's going to rake the bike out ridiculously.
2) The taller it gets the flexier it will get.
3) You can't get the lovely Avy damper in a 174mm model.
180mm single crowns are awful monsters.
Yeah, I was going to stick at 170mm I think, if I can work out the dimensions!
Is there a recess on the end of the spacer so that the end of the lyrik shaft sits inside the spacer?
If so the dimensions should be the same as the diameter of the shaft, but with a wider sleeve over to overlap the shaft. With a length of 10mm from the end of the spacer to the bottom of the recess.
Seriously though, isn't a 170mm front 140 rear going to be massively unbalanced?
Bikes ride much nicer when both ends feel the same. Not to mention whether the frame can actually cope with the kind of abuse that you'd throw at a Mega, Spicy, Nomad, Enduro Evo etc.
Ill place a bet that either running to long forks coupled with a slack head angle will snap the headtube....or you'll snap the chainstays coming off a large drop.
The fox 32 150mm has an axle to crown of 525mm.....the Lyrik 160 has a 545 axle to crown....whilst the 170 was a 555.
You'd be adding 30mm of fork height on to the bike! That's gonna do some serious shit to the BB height and put way more forces through the headtube!
It's 150 rear. Mark Weir is running 180/150 on his without any issues. My previous bike was 127/160, so I've been running them unbalanced for a couple of years now, it works well. Maybe it's my riding style, but I always work the fork much harder than the rear end.
Nothing will snap, I'm only little!