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Ur FraMe is n Brigadoon,Scotrootz.
Haha, You post a pic of it as I mock it being lost in make-believe land. So when will it be rolling?
Long time. Still waiting on a collection of other bits coming together.
Surely a new, wider freehub with inboard cassette spacers, wider axle and then either an offset brake mount (like cannondales) or a disc spacer would work. You wouldnt get the wide flange benefit but everything else would match up and no redishing. (disc spacer best idea in case someone tries to fit a proper boost hub).
This winter I am learning to build wheels. I have a set of 29er LB rims and will be getting some new 650b rims as the labour is a large part of the build cost and I would like to be able to rebuild a wheel.
Surely a new, wider freehub with inboard cassette spacers, wider axle and then either an offset brake mount (like cannondales) or a disc spacer would work. You wouldnt get the wide flange benefit but everything else would match up and no redishing. (disc spacer best idea in case someone tries to fit a proper boost hub).
Wider freehub is frankly a daft way to do it. Just space hub to drive side and re-dish, its not hard and cheaper than a new freehub.
Wider freehub is frankly a daft way to do it. Just space hub to drive side and re-dish, its not hard and cheaper than a new freehub.
I've got a wheel truing stand, a dishing tool and have built a few wheels, but I'd still prefer some end caps and a new freehub body to the hassle of re-dishing the back wheel. But then I'm frankly daft 🙂
Youd rather pay £60 for a freehub, £20 for 2 new +3mm endcaps, and then also a disc adaptor? Opposed to 1 +6mm endcap and disc adaptor.
If it meant I didn't have to waste time re-dishing my wheel then yes. But I value my time at a lot more than £60. Each to their own though.
Just buy another hub then, or pay £15 and get a shop to do it ;0)
Of course all this talk assumes your also going to splash out on a boost chainset. If you are going to persevere with a standard chainset a +3mm spacer each side, disc spacer, and tweak of the mech will work fine.
Of course all this talk assumes your also going to splash out on a boost chainset. If you are going to persevere with a standard chainset a +3mm spacer each side, disc spacer, and tweak of the mech will work fine.
So long as the frame has clearance 3mm futher in.
STATO
So is it a case of 2x 3mm spacers & a spacer behind the disc or 1 x 6mm spacer on the none drive side & a 6mm spacer behind the disc? all easily made but confused dot com as to exactly what the set up is, I'll get the new frame in the stand & install the crank, rear wheel and cassette & put the chain in the middle of the cassette & check the alignment & go from there, but I think in time all manner of adaptors will be available hopefully, though manufacturers will of course continue to try & relieve us of hard earned cash.
[quote=yorkycsl ]
So is it a case of 2x 3mm spacers & a spacer behind the disc or 1 x 6mm spacer on the none drive side & a 6mm spacer behind the disc? Either, but the latter will need the wheel to be dished 3mm or it won't be centered in the frame.
Have any of you managed to make it work?
There is a lot of confused eople here.
The whole point of going 148/12 (as boost is trademark by Trek) is to increase the stifness of the wheel by widening the flange distance thus having nothing to do with the 27.5 29+.
You can easily build a 27.5+ rim on a 135/5mm hub. Or a classical rim on a 148/12mm hub.
The difference between classical hubs and 'boost' is in the hub shell. This later is wider ( a bit like a 10/12mm hub) and the free hub is the same (basically the rotor kit ref 3188s from DT Swiss for XD will work for both the 1422/12mm hub and the 148/12mm hub) and so is the flange to disc mount distance.
Having end caps and spacers will just be a big bodge and as someone said it is best to sell your rear wheel (fro some reason front 'boost' isn't as widely spread as the rear) to finance a new rear hub.
If I can (meaning I can find an easy way to post a pic here) i will post on the technical drawing between classical hubs and 'boost'.
HTH
I think most people on here probably get that fine. Yes, there are bodges being discussed. It's trying to make a potentially nice older set of wheels work with a nice new boost frame. No, you won't get the benefits of boost but you will be able to keep using those nice wheels and not have to change everything at once.
And boost should help with plus tyres because it moves the whole chainline out 3mm, opening up room for the chainstay to fit betwixt tyre and chainring without that estay solution trek has had to do.
HTH
You can easily build a 27.5+ rim on a 135/5mm hub.
You can indeed but if you put a 3" tyre on it the chain will rub the tyre when you get up to the 42T on the rear.
Which isn't what it was designed specificaly for but it'll help people trying to run + sized tyres.
Is there any more development on this? I'm rather curious.
Apologies for the thread resurrection - Steve from Taurus mtb made a machined slip
On end cap for the ND side which slipped over my existing end cap on the extralite hub, combined with a 6mm spacer on rotor and it's worked a treat.