[Closed] 148 wide rear Hubs, Are Hope using spacers or a pukka wider hub

It's a Boost rear-end. That means the distance between the flanges needs to increase. Just putting in axle spacers leaves the rotor in the wrong place. I'm guessing someone will come out with some -3mm adapters for the latter bur I don't know how good/strong they'll be.

Apparently Hope are bringing out spacer kits to convert their 135/142 to Boost.

Apparently Hope are bringing out spacer kits to convert their 135/142 to Boost.

Hmm. I'd like to know how that's gonna work.
Boost isn't just a wider rear hub. The extra 6mm over 142 goes into spacing each hub flange out 3mm. Which in turn moves the chainline out 3mm, so you also need a different offset crank. That's the whole point, widen the rear end to get a fatter tyre through.

Hmm. I'd like to know how that's gonna work.
Boost isn't just a wider rear hub. The extra 6mm over 142 goes into spacing each hub flange out 3mm. Which in turn moves the chainline out 3mm, so you also need a different offset crank. That's the whole point, widen the rear end to get a fatter tyre through.

I'd guess on a 6mm wider spacer on the disc side. Then spacer to move the disc back across to the right position.

American Classic are'nt changing the flange spacing on their boost hubs,just the disc positioning and a longer axle.Their reasoning being having nearly symmetrical lacing is more beneficial than a marginally wider braced but still dished wheel.
Hope could do the same by offering a 6mm longer nds end cap and a 6mm disc spacer and longer bolts.
I'm not sure why you can't achieve the same things boost does by offsetting the rear end asymmetrically (like Pace did in the rc100 and cannondale Fsi) without the hassle of making all your wheels obsolescent.

Pyga do the same offset rear end thing.

But yes Hope are doing both a true boost hub and kits to convert your old Pro2 to fit boost frames. I would think the Bronsons are coming with real boost hubs.

Hmm. I'd like to know how that's gonna work.
Boost isn't just a wider rear hub. The extra 6mm over 142 goes into spacing each hub flange out 3mm. Which in turn moves the chainline out 3mm, so you also need a different offset crank. That's the whole point, widen the rear end to get a fatter tyre through.

I'd guess on a 6mm wider spacer on the disc side. Then spacer to move the disc back across to the right position.

And then re-dish the wheel too.

I was of the understanding that it was only the front hubs that Hope were planning to do a conversion for but could be wrong

It's a Boost rear-end. That means the distance between the flanges needs to increase.

Im going to look into the possibility of machining some spacers & have a good look at what it takes, Peterpoody I think fitting fatter tyres is surely down to how wide the frame is not how wide the hub flanges are, I've run Roval Fattie SL carbon wheels 30mm wide on a Bronson with no clearance issues at all.

I'd guess on a 6mm wider spacer on the disc side. Then spacer to move the disc back across to the right position.

Ahh. A bodge then.

Peterpoody I think fitting fatter tyres is surely down to how wide the frame is not how wide the hub flanges are,

Moving the chainline out enables the frame to be built wider. Simples. 🙂

No. It means the distance between the 11T and the disc need to increase.

Which is pointless unless you increase the flange spacing. Which is exactly what Boost is all about! 🙂 It's not just a wider hub.....

.....It's a complete system to stiffen the wheel and move the chainline out.

[img] [/img]

Now, wether you like/believe/want it or not is neither here nor there really, but that's the idea of it! 🙂

Bear in mind I work in a Trek dealership, and lots of Treks (Mine included) have Boost, then it's my job to know about it. I need to know what works and what doesn't work with it. SRAM, Manitou, DT Swiss and Shimano (Maybe others) are producing specific parts for it, cranks, hubs, forks etc

Bit of reading....
http://enduro-mtb.com/en/tech-talk-whats-the-boost-standard-all-about/

Being cynical, it would of been too simple and not generate enough new part revenue by using an existing standard like a 83mm bottom bracket with 150mm hub spacing...

And we're off....

(again)

Somebody had to 🙂

That's the whole point, widen the rear end to get a fatter tyre through.

When I heard the new Bronson was going to boost hub spacing I was expecting that if it wasn't for + sized wheel reasons it would be to give a bit better tyre clearance at the back... but on the one I saw the tyre clearance was as tight as the previous one.

Which is pointless unless you increase the flange spacing.

opened a can of worms with this one .....

The only reason I'm looking at the whole 148 thing is because we had a visit in the night three weeks ago & 3 bikes went awol, the insurers have been superb & Wheelies sorted one bike, the rest all paid out swiftly and no quibbling, so now with a depleted garage I've started to look around, the 30mm wide rovals really do spread the tyre out nicely, many people have commented on it & the grip feels some what increased so the 148 thing got me thinking what can be done re a bit of lathe work, I'm all for increasing the stiffness but to be fair I've found the Rovals very stiff.

I would get the proper boost Hub from hope rather than the axle ands and the disc spacer that they do
Bollox to the crankset though it's only 3mm works fine with a normal set up

I thought hope we're only making spacers for the front hub not the rear.

My understanding too. But there's a difference here- they're doing a Boost hub but they're [i]also[/i] making adaptors so that people with existing hubs can carry on using them. Which is ace.

You could definitely adapt a 135 rear to boost sizes (or space brakes and mech in and out) but it's more situational and depends on your other parts.

As enlightening as it is watching the bike industry scramble after the fact to turn b+ into something that needs a new frame, hubs etc, Boost can still **** off. But things like this will help a bit.

Hope will be doing a proper wide flanged boost hub. This will be best for your boost frame.

However, hope are also planning spacers that would allow people like me to keep their old wheels and use them on a boost frame. They'll also be offering offset brake mounts to make up for the shift in rotor position. Not sure if they're going 3mm either side and accepting the chainline but keep the dish or if they're going 6mm all on one side to keep the chainline but require a redish.

UK Bikes have Hope hubs while US versions can have DT240's

Are you sure they are 240's, the DT Swiss website only mentions their heavier (and cheaper) 350 hubs coming in Boost width?

Hope will be doing a proper wide flanged boost hub. This will be best for your boost frame.

They've been doing them for a while. I've got one. It goes brrrrrrrrr.

Brant - is it the 15th your revealing all?

enmac, If you spec a v2 Bronson on the US site with Enve's it says they come with DT240's or at least thats what I read the other day.

I've a pair of DT240 hubs that I'd like to convert if possible, cracking hubs & surely some one will produce the parts to do it or at least I hope so

Wouldn't like my hubs to be cracking.

Boost fragments 650B wheel sets into pre-Boost 650B and post-Boost 650B. Picking up replacement wheels in a couple of years will be a minefield.

It's a shame they didn't introduce Boost and 650B at the same time and make an actual benefit to the whole wheel size affair.

Brant - is it the 15th your revealing all?

I have no idea what you are on about.

Hope told me they were only doing the spacers etc for their front hubs, [u]not[/u] rear hubs.

I've just had my rear LB rim re-built onto a new Hope Boost hub for £195 and will sell the old hub to recoup some of the outlay so won't be too expensive.

Anyone want a nearly new black Pro 2 Evo 40t (32h) 12x142 hub with xd driver?!

Hope told me they were only doing the spacers etc for their front hubs

At least the 650b debate seems to of eased at last, now it bloody hubs & rim width all to get us to part with our dosh without the wife seeing the bills.....

What's annoying for people who went all in with 650b because they were told it was the future is that the bike industry has managed to make those first generation 650b rims and hubs as obsolete as the 26 inch ones before them. Same story for 650b front forks that don't have boost compatible lowers.

How can you trust that the second generation of 650b wider rims and boost hubs won't be the next chocolate teapots in 12 months time?

When you buy a good and therefore expensive set of wheels you want them to last a little while or possibly plan to use them on one bike and the next one. Resale values are never that great.

When you buy a good and therefore expensive set of wheels you want them to last a little while or possibly plan to use them on one bike and the next one. Resale values are never that great.

The advent of boost sizing is now stopping me from buying a nice pair of wheels for myself for Christmas, as the chance of them fitting the next frame I go for is now somewhat reduced.

Is there much of a move to Boost for non + or 29er wheel sizes?

It's a worry as the new frame I'm looking at is 142 x 12

Is there much of a move to Boost for non + or 29er wheel sizes?

Your frame is in Cirencester.

gelert - Member

How can you trust that the second generation of 650b wider rims and boost hubs won't be the next chocolate teapots in 12 months time?

You can't, of course. Don't think for a second the big players in the bike industry will do right for you, it doesn't enter the equation, they're not your friends. At best they're farmers and we're the herd but increasingly they act like hunters who know there's enough animals that they don't need to worry about whether they kill too many or chase some off, and if they do they can always just fight the other hunters.

If they can think of a clever way to make your bike outdated, they will do it. Churn is here to stay, it's proven its value to them and as a punter there's no managing it, and no predicting it, it wouldn't be effective churn if you could see it coming. All you can do is mitigate the ill effects.

Your frame is in Cirencester.

Of course it is.

Funny though, that doesn't seem to be in a direct line between Leeds and Aviemore. I hope it's not going to be worn out before I even get to see it 😆

I don't think the big players have ever cared much for those of us who want to move kit from frame to frame. They'd much rather we bought a whole bike (and replaced it every year or two).

It's the smaller players I feel for. What is a relatively small outfit (like Cotic, for example) supposed to do? Some customers will want Boost compatible frames, others will be vehemently opposed to them and they can't really afford to stock both.

Roverpig, I agree. I'm looking at a Turner rfx and Dave Turner has decided not to go boost as his customers typically swap frames with existing kit.

However, I'm going to 650b from 26" so now is the time for me to go boost and try and stay on top of the ever changing standards.

For small outfits, it's just one more why of deciding their market share.

Could Hope "just" make end caps, a 3mm disc spacer and a new freehub body to convert a Pro 2 Evo rear to Boost ?

I've been saving up a rather large (to me anyway) sum of money for a whole new bike and there's no way the bike industry is going to see a penny of it for another couple of years.

I was of the understanding that it was only the front hubs that Hope were planning to do a conversion for but could be wrong

The adaptor will be easy to make. 12 holes.. 6 threaded holes. Might make one next week! Oh, I don't need it as my hugo52's fit fine in my 142 27.5 rear end as it is without worrying about something.. I don't need to worry about in the first place.

Here please

[img] https://goo.gl/NvrORL [/img]

Ur FraMe is n Brigadoon,Scotrootz.

Haha, You post a pic of it as I mock it being lost in make-believe land. So when will it be rolling?

Long time. Still waiting on a collection of other bits coming together.

Surely a new, wider freehub with inboard cassette spacers, wider axle and then either an offset brake mount (like cannondales) or a disc spacer would work. You wouldnt get the wide flange benefit but everything else would match up and no redishing. (disc spacer best idea in case someone tries to fit a proper boost hub).

This winter I am learning to build wheels. I have a set of 29er LB rims and will be getting some new 650b rims as the labour is a large part of the build cost and I would like to be able to rebuild a wheel.

Surely a new, wider freehub with inboard cassette spacers, wider axle and then either an offset brake mount (like cannondales) or a disc spacer would work. You wouldnt get the wide flange benefit but everything else would match up and no redishing. (disc spacer best idea in case someone tries to fit a proper boost hub).

Wider freehub is frankly a daft way to do it. Just space hub to drive side and re-dish, its not hard and cheaper than a new freehub.

Wider freehub is frankly a daft way to do it. Just space hub to drive side and re-dish, its not hard and cheaper than a new freehub.

I've got a wheel truing stand, a dishing tool and have built a few wheels, but I'd still prefer some end caps and a new freehub body to the hassle of re-dishing the back wheel. But then I'm frankly daft 🙂

Youd rather pay £60 for a freehub, £20 for 2 new +3mm endcaps, and then also a disc adaptor? Opposed to 1 +6mm endcap and disc adaptor.

If it meant I didn't have to waste time re-dishing my wheel then yes. But I value my time at a lot more than £60. Each to their own though.

Just buy another hub then, or pay £15 and get a shop to do it ;0)

Of course all this talk assumes your also going to splash out on a boost chainset. If you are going to persevere with a standard chainset a +3mm spacer each side, disc spacer, and tweak of the mech will work fine.

Of course all this talk assumes your also going to splash out on a boost chainset. If you are going to persevere with a standard chainset a +3mm spacer each side, disc spacer, and tweak of the mech will work fine.

So long as the frame has clearance 3mm futher in.

STATO

So is it a case of 2x 3mm spacers & a spacer behind the disc or 1 x 6mm spacer on the none drive side & a 6mm spacer behind the disc? all easily made but confused dot com as to exactly what the set up is, I'll get the new frame in the stand & install the crank, rear wheel and cassette & put the chain in the middle of the cassette & check the alignment & go from there, but I think in time all manner of adaptors will be available hopefully, though manufacturers will of course continue to try & relieve us of hard earned cash.

[quote=yorkycsl ]
So is it a case of 2x 3mm spacers & a spacer behind the disc or 1 x 6mm spacer on the none drive side & a 6mm spacer behind the disc? Either, but the latter will need the wheel to be dished 3mm or it won't be centered in the frame.

Have any of you managed to make it work?

There is a lot of confused eople here.
The whole point of going 148/12 (as boost is trademark by Trek) is to increase the stifness of the wheel by widening the flange distance thus having nothing to do with the 27.5 29+.
You can easily build a 27.5+ rim on a 135/5mm hub. Or a classical rim on a 148/12mm hub.
The difference between classical hubs and 'boost' is in the hub shell. This later is wider ( a bit like a 10/12mm hub) and the free hub is the same (basically the rotor kit ref 3188s from DT Swiss for XD will work for both the 1422/12mm hub and the 148/12mm hub) and so is the flange to disc mount distance.
Having end caps and spacers will just be a big bodge and as someone said it is best to sell your rear wheel (fro some reason front 'boost' isn't as widely spread as the rear) to finance a new rear hub.
If I can (meaning I can find an easy way to post a pic here) i will post on the technical drawing between classical hubs and 'boost'.

HTH

I think most people on here probably get that fine. Yes, there are bodges being discussed. It's trying to make a potentially nice older set of wheels work with a nice new boost frame. No, you won't get the benefits of boost but you will be able to keep using those nice wheels and not have to change everything at once.

And boost should help with plus tyres because it moves the whole chainline out 3mm, opening up room for the chainstay to fit betwixt tyre and chainring without that estay solution trek has had to do.

HTH

You can easily build a 27.5+ rim on a 135/5mm hub.

You can indeed but if you put a 3" tyre on it the chain will rub the tyre when you get up to the 42T on the rear.
Which isn't what it was designed specificaly for but it'll help people trying to run + sized tyres.

Is there any more development on this? I'm rather curious.

Apologies for the thread resurrection - Steve from Taurus mtb made a machined slip
On end cap for the ND side which slipped over my existing end cap on the extralite hub, combined with a 6mm spacer on rotor and it's worked a treat.