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I've got an occam. Entry level h30. It's a great all rounder. Been in the Surrey hills on it and on long rides. Really good at going up hills. Great value for money too. Good kit on it for the price. The Marzocchi z2 fork is nice and simple but with fox technology.
Good bike for the price.
Also interested in this area, but put off by the poor sounding warranty on the Highlander. Lifetime, but only for the original owner, and not if using it on DH tracks (according to their site). So, say I take it for an uplift day at Innerleithen, or Fort William or Dunkeld? What's the difference between most DH tracks and enduro tracks up here?
Bearings not covered either, but not sure if anyone other than SC does that.
The new Bird Aether 9C does tick a lot of boxes for me (especially customisation options).
A lot of warranties don’t cover riding outside the intended use of the bike, only cover the original owner, and don’t cover bearings, and only cover manufacturing defects.
Difference here is they are spelling out what it doesn’t cover. That said, if you did have any problems, I’m confident they would sort you out. As an example, they were sending frames out with loaner shocks while they waited for actual stock to come in that had been oredered. Not sure I know of any other bike company to have done that
What’s the difference between most DH tracks and enduro tracks up here?
More jumps and an uplift?
What’s the difference between most DH tracks and enduro tracks up here?
I’ve heard red trail centres can be pretty rough on bikes (especially after sending them down the 50/01 line at revs 😉)
My thoughts on the Deviate Highlander above.
Compared to a Hightower, it is a better bike in my opinion. Plusher over stutter bumps and roots, feels nicer on the climbs and feels more capable on the downs. Overall, an excellent bike.
If budget does not allow then I would say Canyon Strive. Pound for pound, it is the best value 29er I have ever ridden for the big mountain riding that I enjoy.
Hope this is of some help?
Cheers
Sanny
It does however have a minimum speed and if you’re using the back brake it definitely reduces the effectiveness of the suspension (it’s my first single pivot bike in a while so this is very noticeable to me). This is happens especially on really steep sections unsurprisingly. I can almost feel the bike going “get off the brakes you fool”.
Posted 18 hours ago
This is just the way I'd describe my Stage 6, it's part of the character of the bike so I don't mind, but I'm surprised to hear you notice the same thing with an idler bike.
I'd naively assumed the magic rock-smoothing effect would happen whether the brakes were on or off.
Would still love to try one, but I'd be drawn more to the Forbidden than Deviate - due to the reputations of those involved - and part of me is still sceptical about needless weight and complexity.
“This is just the way I’d describe my Stage 6, it’s part of the character of the bike so I don’t mind, but I’m surprised to hear you notice the same thing with an idler bike.
I’d naively assumed the magic rock-smoothing effect would happen whether the brakes were on or off.”
The higher the main pivot, the greater the brake squat, so high pivot idler designs suffer the most. Having a linkage with a progressive rate can help hide it a bit, as will the rearward axle path, but they’re still very much bikes that like you to brake short and hard before the corners and then let them roll. That’s why they work so well under WC DH riders.
It might be possible to make a high pivot bike without tons of brake squat if you combined Trek ABP / DW Split Pivot with a high pivot and idler. The ABP bikes act like single pivots when pedalling but four bar when braking.
@sanny that bike looked a lot shinier in your review than when I had it lol.
P.S. another reason I turned down the Highlander was transport. The low shock/burly frame means it didnt fit any of my roof bike racks and I cant get a towbar on my car. Inside is not an option as regurally have 3 in the car biking.
I've ridden the Highlander twice, once for a day on some steep and rocky Malaga trails and at the FoD on less bonkers singletrack. Both times I was coming off my RipMo V1. For me
- the back end on the Highlander is amazing, the most controlled suspension system I've ridden. Just brilliant. Made the fork feel a bit rubbish
- it's a very easy bike to ride. Having ridden the M and the L, I might have gone with the M even tho I'm nearly 6ft. Really felt 'inside' that bike.
- It pedals well. You look at the suspension design and think 'that's going to be odd' but it just isn't. It's got gobs of traction and it doesn't feel like there's more resistance than a normal setup. However both rides were in the bone dry.
- The RipMo climbs better. Not much diff in the weight but swapping bikes, both my mate and I noticed how much easier the fireroad climbs were on the RipMo. Maybe less difference on a technical climb.
I didn't notice sticky pivots on either demo. My overall impression it was closer to an 'enduro' type bike than a 'trail bike'. I know that's marketing toss but basically for all day riding I'd prefer my RipMo, for uplift/technical steep stuff I'd have the Highlander every time.
Still for context I prefer my V1 to the V2 RipMo.
Currently in the same boat looking at something similar for next year. Fancied the Ripmo AF, but bushings rather than bearings in the pivots has put me off it- you would be endlessly changing them out here in Scotland.
Current contender for me is the Giant Reign 29. Fair enough, it's not a 'boutique brand', but looks very good value for money and made by one of the best frame manufacturers in the world, with an excellent suspension system.
If you want a capable, lightish all rounder I really rate the Stage 6. Better than the Bird AM9 or RipmoAf imo.
Another option for a DH bias is the Stanton Switch9erFS which is a beast for a 140mm rear travel bike but it aint light. Climbs well though.
Hadn’t considered the Strive, another to add to the list. I really need to start demoing some of these.
My head has been turned by the Murmur, will definitely email Starling to see if I can get a test on one of those. The reviews make it sound right up my strasse.
Liteville 301? Fantastic attention to detail Teutonic design. Lightweight, transferable warranty (although I’ve never seen anyone with warranty issues). Latest version is more progressive design so less perched riding position. Brilliant all round trail bike.
Ah, great shout. I’ve had Liteville longings for years...
Where are you location wise?
Anywhere near the Fod and you can try my Starling.
I have a Reign 29er on test - the base model carbon version with Rock Shox front and rear. The suspension design is very good indeed - it is as plush as I need it to be. It pedals well up the hills although (and this is not an issue unique to Giant) I have been unable to get the SRAM chainset off to switch to a smaller front ring. A torque setting of 54 Nm is really high and even with a breaker bar, I've not been able to remove it for fear of stripping the bolt. I much prefer the Shimano design for cranks. It may not seem like a big deal but it would be enough to put me off buying a bike. I had the same issue with a Canyon Strive last year too. My mechanic who works on the World Cup DH circuit and I battled to get it off but in the end conceded defeat as we did not want to damage the cranks nor the frame itself.
But back to the Reign 29 - a really nice bike that feels capable up and down. I would like to see a bit more steerer tube though as it is a little too low at the front for my tastes. It would benefit from a higher rise bar. Overall though, it is definitely worth a closer look and a test ride. It is a nice bike that does everything really well.
I think the base model in alloy would be the bike of choice if you want to stay below 3 grand. Carbon is nice but it doesn't deal with knocks and dunts in the way that alloy does.
Cheers
Sanny
A torque setting of 54 Nm is really high and even with a breaker bar, I’ve not been able to remove it for fear of stripping the bolt.
Something is amiss there. I use a regular torque wrench, with arms that make TDF climbers look stacked, and while it takes a heft, they go in/come out without me being concerned for the threads.
Fancied the Ripmo AF, but bushings rather than bearings in the pivots has put me off it- you would be endlessly changing them out here in Scotland.
Without wishing to get off topic, I've had the bushings out twice to check them. In two year/4000km of ownership including lots of wet rides (a week in Finale shuttling in very wet conditions included) and there is no noticeable wear at all.
As per Ibis instructions, pop them back in with a very light film of grease and forget about them for a year! The bearings on the upper link tho are a different proposition!
A torque setting of 54 Nm is really high and even with a breaker bar, I’ve not been able to remove it for fear of stripping the bolt.
Aye, it's slightly worry-inducing. The loud crack when mine finally let go on a brand new carbon frame was an 'interesting' moment. It's a crappy bit of design for this (and other reasons), and I mentally adjust the net price of removing and replacing the SRAM chainset with Shimano when considering a new bike.
Evil Offering?
141 rear, 140/150/160 front.
Can be setup as a poppy trail flyer, or as a downhill bruiser.