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As I say (to myself) you can always freewheel down a hill not up one
11-32 9 speed Sora with a compact up front Px Kaffenback trundles me up the local welsh hills, Horeshoe pass still hurts my legs cause im fat.
Very happy with 9 speed Sora compact front and 11-34 back on my steel Kona Honky Tonk. Like to climb and i am not very fit. Standard road gearing is way to high for a lot of road riders, but they won't admit it.
I've got 11-32 11 speed on my road bike and I really like it. I find my Croix de Fer with 34/50 and 12-28 is over geared for me, I'm thinking of going to 40 x 11-40 at some point.
Sorry for the stupid question, but what's the biggest cassette I can run on a 10s Tiagra mech? Reading the above can I squeeze a 30t in?
Wife's looking at a new bike, comes with a 28t cassette and, I assume, a short cage mech. She likes the 32t on here current nice bike.
From earlier posts it seems fine just as long as you don't make a habit of putting the chain in the smallest sprocket and smallest chain ring, at which point I guess the chain will get a little baggy
From earlier posts it seems fine just as long as you don't make a habit of putting the chain in the smallest sprocket and chain ring, at which I guess the chain will get a little baggy
unless your running XTR Di2 and it stops you doing that 😉
@dirtyrider are you importing the road link or is there now a uk supplier ? I want one bad since I saw it in the CTC mag.
my road link was from Flatout Cycles
I'm thinking of going to 40 x 11-40 at some point.
There'll be a dedicated 1x11 road groupset at some point, surely? It seems to make sense, in so far as it's been around in mtb for a few years now and mountain bikes have always had a larger range of gears than roadie stuff...
A clutch mech would be good. I did run cx1 (on loan) but I hate SRAM double tap. On this experimental set up I have taken out as many links as I can ( a couple more since the pis was taken). It is a little baggy but Ive not dropped a chain and this bike is mostly off road/shiity roads.
Drop bar xtr/di2 would be the shizzle. All being well I get to play with Rotors hydro group sometime soon..
11-32 1x9, old MTB bits on my bargain bin Bridleslayer, went for a ride with my mate on his shiny new 2x11 5800 equipped Arkose, what cassette has he got? 11-32 of course quite how much benefit the extra two steps in the range really give I don't know, but there you go; Road/CX groups have caught up with MTBs and it only took about 15 years...
Just changed my 11-28 road cassette for a 12-30, the range will suit me a shade better and it's hardly that difficult to change backif I want... Strange that most people just stick with the same cassette range really.
I've run a 11-34 10 speed cassette on standard 105 shifters and rear mech. Worked fine and I don't understand the need for close ratios on road bikes. Too many hills where I ride to worry about that!
Have 1x10 on a CX/go anywhere bike. 38t narrow wide and 11-40 praxis cassette with a goat link from the good guys at 18 bikes. I quite fancy 1x11 on the road bike tbh!
I quite fancy 1x11 on the road bike tbh!
It would save a bit of weight, expense and faffing about, right?
It's personal too, I can't stand tiny 1tooth gaps, I end up changing two gears at a time
This- had an 11-28 on my cross bike with a double and it drove me insane. Always seemed to be clicking two or three gears. Got 1x10 with an 11-36 on a standard 105 mech and it's much better. Gear range is pretty similar too.
Side benefits include less weight, better mud clearance and at some point I'm going to see about setting up a dropper to the left hand shifter...
[quote=fathomer ]Sorry for the stupid question, but what's the biggest cassette I can run on a 10s Tiagra mech? Reading the above can I squeeze a 30t in?
Depends on your frame. 30T should be OK on most frames, but I found a 32T wouldn't work with a road mech on my CX bike - it might on some frames (and I think some here are reporting it's OK) depending on just how long the mech hanger is. The issue isn't the amount of chain wrap, but that the top jockey wheel hits the cassette. You can fix this to some extent by screwing in the B screw, but this will also move the mech away from the small cogs which will make shifting worse. TBH you're better off putting on a MTB mech if using a wide range cassette as the angle of the mech is different and will keep the pulleys close to the cassette over the full range.