[Closed] 1 x 10 curious.

Changed recently from 3x9 to 1x10 (11/36 - 32) and have no regrets.

Like most things you just get on with what you have. Live in Yorkshire and not many things i've not managed to get up that i couldn't before.

Oh, and it makes me look 13% cooler/faster.

You can pick up used chainrings for much less, but if you're buying new I can't see any reason not to get a thick/thin, there's not much of a price hike.

You'll notice the difference, I reckon. But that doesn't mean it's a problem. The catch is, you might very rarely use the lowest gears but when you do, you really want them! And likewise, not having the high gears might feel weird- I'm a stomper so I really missed it at first but now it feels quite nice to spin mentally fast.

So- IMO anyway- it's not so much about it not making a big difference, it's just that it's not often a big drawback.

There are times it's grim though! Everyone says "I can ride up steep stuff with it" and yeah sure but it's the long grinders that kill me. The endless slightly-too-steep scottish landrover tracks!

I have just changed from 3x9 to 1x10 and haven't noticed much difference. You do look for that lower chainring at first but I have still managed the same climbs so far. Just simpler.

With that gearing I assume you are running FSA cranks (as they like their 40/28 combos), if they are anything OTHER than afterburners then I would recommend buying new cranks. Chainrings in a decent tooth size are an arse to buy for the tri bolt pattern and are very difficult to find! I managed to fit one but it required a laser cutter and lots of persuading.

There are times it's grim though! Everyone says "I can ride up steep stuff with it" and yeah sure but it's the long grinders that kill me. The endless slightly-too-steep scottish landrover tracks!

+1

When your legs are about to fall off and your head is going to explode, but you can see the brow of the track in the distance, just at the tree line...so you keep pushing and pushing...then you get there, almost spent, desperate for a more gentle incline...but the track just turns and continues up at the same angle 🙂

That's the one thing I miss about a granny ring; being able to just spin when you're going up for a looooooooooong time.

I'm pretty unfit these days. I recently changed my 29er from 22/32 and 11-34 double (as a 2x9) to 1x10 with 34 and 11-36. I find it pretty comparable in terms of the gears I actually use and I certainly can't see myself going back. If I was heading to the Alps, I'd fit a smaller front chainring but I find that the 11-36 range is spot on for what I'd actually use my mtb on.

Basically, gear it low enough so you can get up climbs - IME I rarely use my top/hardest gear even on my 1x10.

With that gearing I assume you are running FSA cranks (as they like their 40/28 combos)

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I went 2x10 about a year ago from 3x9 and did notice the drop in lower gears initially but have just got used to not having a granny. I reckon this would be the same so will give it a go I reckon.
@Northwind: did you post on WC Facebook about your experiences? I'd like to be able to run without a guide too if possible. Got XT S+ rear mech and thinking about getting a dropper post so would be nice to get rid of the front shifter too..

I did, aye. They seemed a little bit surprised it had worked so well tbh 🙂

There's another wee side effect, which is that if you do manage to derail a chain past a decent chain device- it can be done- then it's generally an absolute bollocks to refit it. With my old setup (E13 guide ring and an MRP top guide) I knocked the chain off in a crash in the innerleithen gravity enduro, and it took me bloody ages to get it back on. With no guide, maybe it'll fall off more than it would with a guide, maybe it won't but it'll definitely be easier to refit!

36 by 11 - 36 here. Its great, front mechs are the devil!

No guide on either courtesy of works.

1 X 10 really is the new single speed isn't it, so many threads a the moment.

1x10 is great for most of my riding (ragging around the local woods, trail centres etc) and I wouldn't go back to 2x10/2x9/3x9 etc. As peterfile mentions though, if you do a lot of big country riding with long drawn out technical climbs then I reckon you will miss the lower gears. You can still get up these climbs but you have to attack a lot more which really tires you at.

As for set up. I use 32t and 11-36 cassette with a chain guide. The new breed of wide/narrow tooth chainrings designed to run without a chainguide really do work though if you want a cleaner/lighter look to the bike. Several friends run these chainrings without issue.

1x10 is brill....but you have to realise you don't have the full range you will have with 3x or 2x. So you need to make a decision as to what end of the range you'd prefer to lose. I chose to lose the higher ratio's and have gone for a 28 up front with an 11-36 cassette (it's a 29er so roughly equivalent to 31 up front). I find this fine for 95% of the riding I do. It is a bit low geared for flat smooth trails, but I don't ride those often and when I do they are ususally linking up parts of the trail so am happy to saunter along. And it is a very steep climb to make me feel like I want a lower 1st gear and i've not yet been beaten, so on balance the benefits of going 1x10 outweigh the downsides.

I've gone for a Wolftooth SRAM direct mount setup with an X9 Type 2 mech and its fine - does what it says on the tin - no chain drop yet.

Just gone 1x10 with a 33t and 11-36, MRP 1x top guide and X9 clutch mech. Second ride in i got a dropped chain, but this was hammering it down the final descent on the Wall at Afan. Ive taken some links out on the chain which should help and ive got a bottom device to try if it keeps coming off.

As for gearing it would be nice to have an easier granny but nothing i cant get used to and im not that fit, and about 19st geared up. All my climbs were PR's on the second ride on saturday in the heat so it must be ok.

2 rides on a 32t wolf tooth/bash and a 11/36 cassette, standard xt mech and I'm impressed.

What chain ring bolts do you guys use?
I'm guessing I'd need shorter ones as I'd be bolting 1 ring on instead of 2?

I just you regular chainring bolts. Got some of these to space them out.

[url= http://www.ison-distribution.com/english/product.php?part=CRIDSD06 ]Ison chainring spacers[/url]

I use a MRP Lopes guide (top and bottom) as I don't have a clutch mech. Think I'd always have an upper and lower guide running 1x as I don't fully trust just a top guide, regardless of how good clutch mechs are supposed to be...

Clutch mech alone doesn't really do the business but clutch mech + newfangled chainring is amazingly good.

Clutch mech alone doesn't really do the business but clutch mech + newfangled chainring is amazingly good

That's what I'm hoping..

Would be good if Shimano could engneer a 9 thooth sprocket for an mtb hub .They do one for folders .9to36 cassette on a ten speed would be good .Gives you 92 inches for top on a 32 tooth ring

I've just seen those race face narrow wide chain rings are (or at least will be) available in 30t even for a standard shimano 104bcd. Temping if 1x10 and 32t is just a bit too hard work (which it is for some people I'm sure).

Definite +1 for the long climbs wearing you down with 1x10.

Not had much luck with the rf rings with a clutch mech & top guide, lost the chain a lot on continued rocky dh's and almost every time I got airborne.

I'm running a 30T wolftooth and Zee mech. Had them about weeks. No dropped chain yet. Had a big/rocky/rough ride today - no bother at all. I live in a fairly hilly place, so happy to lose the top gears in favour of a bit of comfort going uphill.

Not had much luck with the rf rings with a clutch mech & top guide, lost the chain a lot on continued rocky dh's and almost every time I got airborne.

You checked chain length? - Sounds like it might be a bit on the long side?

You shouldn't be dropping your chain with that set-up.......

I know! Chain is just long enough, just. Its one of the first gen zee mechs so I blaming that atm