It’s a 2001 Mk1 Yaris. The steering feels a bit ‘funny’ at times. I first noticed it when it seemed to be heavy at the straight-ahead position on an A road at 50 – 60mph. It just felt like it needed more than usual inputs to turn left or right. It’s not always that bad – it comes and goes. One night I drove over a seam in the road, which caused a sharp jolt, and it was worse after that, but then the next day it was fine. However, the other night I noticed that if I turned the steering wheel while driving at say, 10mph to go around a bend, it didn’t spring back to the centre position when I let go of the steering wheel.

I’ve had a wee look online, and there are a few threads about this problem with the Yaris. However, I didn’t see any definitive solution. Apparently some cars have electric PAS – I’m not sure if mine is hydraulic or electric. Owners checked tyre pressures and had the geometry checked and adjusted. Another owner had the steering rack replaced. I think it might be a steering column problem, but someone else mentioned that it might be bearings in the top of the front suspension strut where it mounts to the plate. I didn’t even know there were any bearings there!

I didn’t see anything online which suggested it’s dangerous! However, I’d like to know what might be causing it. Presumably replacing any steering components is going to be costly, and from the online reports, Toyota dealers don’t really know what causes this, and can end up replacing parts without resolving the problem. The car is obviously old, and not worth a lot – £100 and dropping according to WeBuyAnyCarDotCom!

Sounds exactly like the tracking is out.

Have you had the four-wheel alignment check?

I haven’t done anything other than check the tyre pressures. Other owners said they’d had the tracking/alignment done, but it didn’t make any difference. Of course, I’m just assuming that my car has the same problem as theirs!

Alignment can be done wrongly, and it can also drift out very quickly due to some other problem.

Take it to Kwik Fit (the check is free) and ask to see the printouts. They will offer. You should be able to watch the numbers on a screen too as they check and/or fix it.

Its a fairly old car – aside from any alignment issues – things could just be seizing up – I’d just make sure everything between the steering wheel and the tyres is lubricated properly. Jack the car up – get someone to wiggle the steering wheel and makes sure everything that moves when they do gets a bit of grease .

You’ve got a problem with your steering and you haven’t considered it could be dangerous?
🙄

The car is obviously old, and not worth a lot

Great.
Scrap it and buy a bike. 🙂

Well, the thought of a steering malfunction has made me feel slightly uneasy, so I haven’t been driving the car! When the steering tightened up it felt a little bit like a seized up headset on a bike, which isn’t good! I felt more reassured after reading that other owners had had their cars checked out, with no obvious faults found, but there’s no saying my car doesn’t have a catastrophic fault…

I didn’t realise Kwik Fit could do an alignment check, so perhaps that’s the wisest first step. How much would they charge if they have to adjust anything, and would I be better taking the car somewhere else to have the work done? I’m near Inverness.

When was its last MOT? Any advisories on suspension components?

The tracking is probably out, but why? It could be any one/combination of components that are broken deteriorated in a 16 year old car. You need to treat the cause not the symptom.

Early yarises are q sought after, we have an 03 1.0 5 door, mint cond and were offered 2.5k for it not long go, privately prob a bit more. Its a 1 owner v low miles one tho, been bulletproof in its ownership.

I didn’t realise Kwik Fit could do an alignment check, so perhaps that’s the wisest first step. How much would they charge if they have to adjust anything

Probably £42 for the fronts, rears probably aren’t adjustable on that car.

Kwik fit can be good for basic stuff like this if you get a decent one.

Thanks for that.

I really like the car – it’s a pity they don’t make the Mk1 any more! I’d be tempted to replace it with a mint one if such a thing exists.

It’s MOT was in December. I booked it in to have it checked over for any problems, but it passed without any advisories despite me asking them to check for wheel bearing and suspension issues etc. They assured me everything was fine, but one rear wheel bearing was shot (since replaced)!

We never had advisories on ours, only thing elec are the windows, no air con or anything to go wrong. I guess its the cheap insurance due to its dull image that makes it sought after. I think it was 6k new so to get 3k back after 14 years is pretty good.

Personally I’d go to a reputable indie.
Kwik Quid will try and tell you the x, y & z needs doing and the parts will be £££££££.
The indie might be a little more, but hopefully you’ll get an honest assessment of what the problem could be.
It could be as simple as the tracking being out or a new PAS rack.

What he says ^ Whatever the question happens to be, Kwik Fit is never the answer

Kwik Fit is never the answer

POSTED 1 HOUR AGO # REPORT-POST

Depends on the question…

Get it sorted pronto. Dangerous, could invalidate your insurance and lead to a driving ban

I’ve got a 2000 yaris (japanese VIN rather than French – worth checking yours). Look on the LH side of the engine for the PAS pump belt – its almost guaranteed to be hydraulic. There are likely two belts visible, one pump at the front (if you’ve got AC as well) and one at the rear – PAS. Check both are tight (shouldn’t be able to move by more than 5-10mm if pressing on them). Check fluid is at the correct level under the cap.

The reason I’m suggesting this is it could be a simple case of the belt slipping and so the assistance going strong/weak. This change in force can give the appearance of it going out of control, but really it’s just the power assistance fading in and out – control is maintained but it requires more effort and could catch you out.

ARB bushes seem to be a common issue on these, but it wouldn’t contribute to strange steering, only knocking and larger roll whilst going around corners. So don’t look here unless you’ve good reason to.

An MOT centre should have a shaker plate – putting it one one of these and standing underneath quickly shows what is worn and providing excessive play. £54 for a complete and accurate diagnosis (and an MOT if it passes!) can be well worth it. I have another car and I went round with the tester and saw for myself all of the wishbone and damper joints which were knackered so knew exactly what needed replacing. New bits in and all knocks and steering changes were gone.

Early yarises are q sought after, we have an 03 1.0 5 door, mint cond and were offered 2.5k for it not long go, privately prob a bit more. Its a 1 owner v low miles one tho, been bulletproof in its ownership.

Bloke I know has a Yaris of the same age and it’s on 350,000 miles 😯

Uses it as a Driving School car

I’ll take steering column uj or faulty steering rack.

Tracking wouldn’t be near the top of my list unless you have clattered a kerb recently and a wheel is obviously on the piss.

Bad tracking should not making the steering go stiff unless your suspension has practically collapsed .

Kwik Quid will try and tell you the x, y & z needs doing and the parts

That’s why you don’t go in asking them to fix your car, you tell them to check the tracking and show you the numbers before doing anything.

Bad tracking should not making the steering go stiff

Depends if you mean stiff in the same way he does. When my tracking is out there is more resistance to the first touch of movement on the motorway, it’s quite distinct and I’d describe that as stiffness or resistance to turning. Properly adjusted tracking feels much lighter.

Bloke I know has a Yaris of the same age and it’s on 350,000 miles

Brilliant. Bought one for my kids as first car – 2004, all 3 had it and ts still going strong on 100,000 miles. I used to get my bike in front wheel off too. It is not in immaculate condition body work wise

Probably best to identify which system you have, I’d go with motivforz on pump drive issue. If getting progressively worse a leaky hose or seal and air locks which would be visible by lack of PAS fluid and oily bits low down.

Experience of electric systems is they still centre when they fail to power. When your speedo doesn’t work and the sensitivity is upped because it thinks you are parking, a sneeze at 50mph will nearly have you in the hedge.

Ball joints or track rod ends would be the first places I looked. But hey, I’m just a vehicle tech/ MOT tester. Opinions are like A holes – everyone has one! 😆

I have a Rav4 with exactly the same problem, it doesn’t self centre the last 15 degrees or so and is sticky in the centre position.

Its a 2008 with EPS so newer. Toyota say its within normal limits, tracking is checked and fresh MOT no advisories, so must be something stiff or failed.

When I’m driving back late at night it is verging on undriveable since every tiny steering correction is forced.

Like to be disposed off soon, and something else (maybe another Rav4) if I can find one thats OK.

I had a similar problem on a Volvo. The steering was sticky in the centre position and making small steering movements from this point felt odd.

It was diagnosed with a worn steering rack. Since steering spends most of it’s life pointing straight ahead (or slightly off this point) this is where they normally wear.

The wear from the rack and pinion gears had also contaminated the power steering fluid which is also used to lubricate things. This was drained and flushed which made the problem less noticeable but didn’t cure it completely.

It was also lots worse in cold weather when the fluid was less viscous.

EDIT: check your power steering fluid – does it look black?

There is a known weak point at the bushing on the end of the front wheel linkage…. I forget what it’s called. Lowest horizontal component with rubber bush at end.

God I love our Yaris 🙂

If anyone is after a bangernomic yaris I have a V reg 5 door cdx model in auto that I need to get shot of since Mrs dickyboy got her co car