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  • Wood for building a shed frame
  • stayhigh
    Full Member

    Morning All

    Now that the decking is all but finished my thoughts are turning to the shed. The shed will be 10 x 6 with a pent roof and I was thinking of using 2 x 2″ for the frame work.

    The shed will be posistioned in the corner of the garden with a wall running down one side and the back. These two sides will be panelled with OSB as they wont be seen and the other two sides will be clad with shiplap.

    Will 2 x 2 be ok for this?

    Cheers all 🙂

    maccruiskeen
    Full Member

    2×2 should be plenty good enough. You might find 3×2 CLS actually works out cheaper sometimes. Building close to the wall make sure you get your height right to avoid neighbour strife – there is a max limit when you are close to the boundary

    project
    Free Member

    I would use 3 x 2 cls pre treated with preservative, nice rounded edges, and Band Q sell it, so buy a load and take back what you dont use.

    http://search.diy.com/search#w=treated cls&asug=

    Untreated is a cheaper

    http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=11417690&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372016}/categories%3C{8960072}/categories%3C{9802012}/specificationsProductType=cut_timber/specificationsSpecificProductType=cls

    stayhigh
    Full Member

    Fortunately we have no neighbours that side. Its a dividing wall and a works yard behind a railway.

    Whats CLS?

    project
    Free Member

    http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=11417690&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372016}/categories%3C{8960072}/categories%3C{9802012}/specificationsProductType=cut_timber/specificationsSpecificProductType=cls

    maccruiskeen
    Full Member

    It stands for ‘Canadian Lumber Standard’ which even most Timber yards don’t know. Its fast grown white pine, smoother than rough sawn timber though not quite planed smooth, slightly rounded edges. Often its also stress tested and will have a structural grade stencilled on it – usually ‘C16’. More reliably strong than a bit of knotty fencing timber.

    stayhigh
    Full Member

    Sounds quite sensible then.

    If my maths serves me well then I need something like 380ft running length to complete the frame and rafters with a bit of spare so would need two packs of the stuff you linked to.

    I got all the wood for the decking from a local timber yard and will be heading there later on to get a quote from them.

    wrightyson
    Free Member

    +1 for cls. Just bear in mind its only in 2.4s or 4.8s

    Stoner
    Free Member

    ex3″x2″ CLS from the timber yard will be cheaper than a retailer. I think I pay about £1 a metre for mine.

    Not sure Id use OSB externally though – unless its specified as exterior grade resin for moisture protection.

    Feather edged cladding would probably be cheaper than shiplap too, and you can get it in treated finish.

    stayhigh
    Full Member

    I was planning on applying a coat of some sort of weather proofing to the outside of the OSB prior to its final placement. What would you suggest using instead?

    I want the shed to be as secure as I can make it as my bikes and tools etc will be in there. Feather board always looks a bit flimsy IMO.

    Stoner
    Free Member

    TBH Id install anchors rather than rely on cladding for theft proofing.

    Id probably featherboard clad all the way round, but then I like the effect.

    stayhigh
    Full Member

    I’m wont be relying purely on the cladding for protection, there will be ground anchors inside. I’ve got a couple of old d locks kicking about so they’ll be concreted into the base as well.

    I considerd that ship lap being a thicker timber would offer more resistence to a potential thief.

    project
    Free Member

    Shiplap screwed to the frame, with half inch mdf or plywood on the inside,use insulation to fill the void, builders band to secure the roof to the walls, bars and a curtain on the windows, bolt throught the hinges, and the hasp or padbolts top and bottom of door.

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