as above really any advice would be awesome

ta!

I was looking at this the other night- a 26 inch blackbox revelation damper and 29 inch reba motion control. I ended up not swapping them, but I’m pretty sure they’re interchangable, the threads looked the same and the physical dimensions were very similiar.

If you want, I could give it a try to confirm?

Oh no wait, sorry, definitely not doing that, the damper breaks in half every time I try to take it out! I’ll just leave it alone I think

in half! that doesn’t sound right !

I need a new damper as the lock out is buggered not sure if a new spring can be fitted or its a new damper

Yeah, the bottom of the plastic housing is broken so when I lift the damper out, it leaves the bottom half in the fork and I need to push it out from beneath. Doesn’t cause any issues in use but is annoying!

I need a new damper as the lock out is buggered not sure if a new spring can be fitted or its a new damper

The lockout is nothing to do with the spring, so you shouldn’t need to worry about changing the spring. I doubt you need a new damper though – it’ll just be an O-ring somewhere that’s leaking oil so the damper oil volume now isn’t enough for the lockout to work properly.

The first thing I’d try would be to drain the oil completely from the damper assembly and then top up with the correct volume. If that doesn’t fix it, get ONE OF THESE and replace the damper side O-rings and try again. If you’re not happy doing this then I’m sure sending them away for service would be cheaper than a new damper anyway.

I don’t think i made myself clear, the lock out on the fork locks out but the remote does not work, it was super stiff so i took it apart and cleans etc and with it all dismantled the actual lock out mech on the top needs to be turns by hand and it doesn’t spring back into the locked position with out manually doing it yourself

so thats my reasoning behind the goosed spring theory

Yeah. In that case take the damper top cap apart and clean / grease up the ball bearing / detents. Alternatively, remove the spring and bin the remote lockout…

but I would like the remote still, so is it possible to fix the damper so it frees up ?

I’ve had a couple get that bad, a proper dismantle and clean and regrease should sort it. Sounds like you’ve cleaned everything you can external to the fork, so whip the damper out clean it up and check the spring is still attached properly nothing has broken inside.

You can get inside the top cap of the damper by opening it up, it’s a backwards thread so unscrew it the wrong way – when you reassemble make sure the o-rings are all good and greased and on the bottom of the damper look at the oil valve, if you run it through it’s range of movement you should see it has 2 marks for open and closed make sure it’s working properly.

It’s a very basic system so if it’s not just gummed up it should be obvious if something is broken as you will see why the spring isn’t working.

Don’t forget to have a bottle of 5wt oil to refill the upper leg to the correct volume for the year and model of fork.

cheers Nickdavies I did just that

yes I dismantled the inside and nothing obvious was broken, at first I thought maybe the spring had lost its spring but after a full dismantle and reassemble the thing was working fine right until I fixed all up again and it jammed! couldn’t get my head round it.

I narrowed it down to the reverse thread section where you screw in the top screw to keep the blue cable ‘thingiemajig’ clamp in and that screw was causing the whole thing to jam!

its strange because its almost like its making the whole top bit bulk out and causing the two parts to get too tight

I lightly sanded the top bit with wet and dry to loosen up so when the top screw goes in its not causing friction with [A]

its a strange one because why would it get so stiff even when its greased up

it works a bit better but still not 100% (ran out of time because the match was on)