OK I’m thinking about doing another long distance MTB trek along the ‘ways’ this summer and have a few questions.

BACKGROUND
In 2010 while on hols just before finishing drama school I did the West Highland Way on an old Specialized Hardrock I bought at the Barras for £80. I had fenders, toe clips/straps, a big rucksack with hydration, and that’s about it. I was probably ill-equipped for the job. I wore a pair of Adidas trail runners, some nylon shorts, a t-shirt, brought clean socks and underwear, and I brought a basic tool/flat kit in the bag. Had flexibility so watched the weather and found a time when it was cool, sunny, and dry (finished 27 May). Did it in about 2 ½ days. Stayed the first night at the bunkhouse in Inversnaid, the second night at the (now gone) bunkhouse behind the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, ate in pubs, and ran on a pretty leisurely schedule. Loch Lomondside was a carry for me, I pushed up Devil’s Staircase and a handful of other big hills, but otherwise stayed on the bike for basically all of it (including the forum-favourite descent into Kinlochleven). Had to stop and buy a salt shaker in Crianlarich because I hadn’t anticipated such electrolyte loss. Very low-tech ride, and I’m not particularly skilled on the bike but I am determined and persistent. Just looked into the photo below and it appears I was on a 2007 Specialized Hardrock Sport: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2007/hardrock/hardrocksport#specs
I loved the ride and always wanted to do it again, maybe including the Great Glen Way at the end, but in the 3 years I lived in Glasgow after graduating, I was always a bit too busy to get away for something like this.

The Specialized got stolen from inside my close later that year (U-locked to the stair railing, but my neighbours always left the front door unlocked so I suspect a workman came back after shift and cut it off or something. I bought a used 2009 Giant Talon after that which was too big for me, too heavy, and which I didn’t really like (especially hated the fork), but it never got nicked, so it was a decent commuter.

NOW
Living in Chicago, the flattest city I’ve ever seen, riding around on a beat up old Schwinn that I’ve made into a fixed gear with luggage rack and MTB bars – again a perfect commuter because EVERYTHING decent gets nicked here. Have been thinking about getting a nice road bike for bigger rides – a second bike just for recreation – but it doesn’t have the same appeal to me as long distance MTB rides in Scotland.

I’m back at the Edinburgh Festival with a short run show this summer and have a bit of time off in town after the gig from 16-24 August. Plan was to stay at the festival, but I think what I really want to do is go out on another big ride instead.

Currently looking at WHW (inc ferry from Inversnaid – don’t need to do Loch Lomondside again), then the Great Glen Way, then a 30-odd mile road trek to Aviemore to do the Speyside Way. Finally 13 miles on the road back to Keith to get the train home to the Central Belt. I reckon it’s 6-8 days at my current pace/fitness level.

QUESTIONS (finally)
1. What are those trails like in late August? Rainier of course, but how full of walkers? Can I keep a decent pace as long as I have a bell or will it be stop-start the whole way?
2. What bike to use? I’m thinking about using this as an excuse to pony up and buy a 16″ Boardman MTB Pro 29er from Halfords. I could buy in June and break it in on day-rides during the early part of the trip and be ready to go once my holiday begins. However, I’ve never ridden a 29er, I’m not in a particular hurry on the downhills, and I’m thinking I may prefer smaller wheels to make the climbs easier. Though I think the 29er would be great for stretches like the drovers’ road boulder field after Kinlochleven. What’s the verdict on the £150 cheaper 650b Team?
3. Anyone shipped a bike to the US? I’d like to keep it afterwards, but if this is cost prohibitive I might think about spending less money and selling the bike when done, or maybe even hiring a bike for the trip.
4. What kit to bring? I want to travel light again, so would probably bring my toolkit, pump, SPD shoes, pedals, light, and clothing in my suitcase from Chicago. I’d still have to buy a basic helmet, fenders, lock and rucksack w/ hydration (don’t have an appropriate one right now and don’t think this is the right trip for my Ortlieb pannier). I think I could get by with my MTB shorts, a jersey, waterproof jacket, and clean socks – clean the synthetic kit in the shower at night and it should dry by morning. Also last time I didn’t bring ‘lounge clothes’ and regretted it, so would probably bring some lightweight trainers, trousers, shirt, and underwear for evenings.
5. Route? I’m quite keen on doing GGW and SW in their entirety since I’ve never ridden them before, but I know it would be much more efficient to cut up from Ft Augustus over Corrieyairack pass and come down the end of the East Highland Way into Aviemore. Though I don’t have GPS so am worried about navigating an unmarked route. I’ve also thought about doing all of the EHW instead of GGW, but I’m more excited about GGW and having an easier cycle following the WHW. Anyone done a route like this?
6. Road bits and tyres – it crossed my mind that I might like to bring a second set of folding treads for the days on road or hardpack. A 29er is a 700c wheel, so I should be able to pick up some basic fast-rolling CX treads, right? 38c’s or something? I’d probably only put them on from Inverness to Aviemore and then again at the very end, so maybe that wouldn’t be worth the changeover time and cost. Or the extra weight. Then again it is only a kilo.
7. Lodging – can you get in anywhere unannounced at a reasonable cost in August? Bridge of Orchy is a pretty good location to stop on a 2 day WHW pace, but without that bunkhouse the hotel is expensive. I’d try camping but then I have to buy more kit, strap it to the bike, and lose the ability to shower/wash my clothes as currently planned. Fort William and Inverness should be easy to find places. Aviemore probably very expensive. And I probably need to stop somewhere along the Speyside Way too – anyone know good places there? How about if I need to stop along the GGW?

Apologies for long post. Lots of thoughts and lots of questions. Maybe I’m dreaming beyond my budget, but hopefully it is the perfect adventure to take on before returning to the flatlands of Illinois.

Thoughts on any or all of this appreciated. Thanks,
Alex

1/ WHW in particular will be very busy. Neither of the other two see anywhere near as much traffic.

2/ 29er would be ideal. They aren’t any slower up hills 🙄 You’ll appreciate the bigger tyre on the rougher terrain and on the road. In fact, I can’t see any downside whatsoever.

3/ No idea about shipping but I doubt you’ll get a cost-effective hire for that length of time.

4/ Gearlist sounds OK if you’re hostelling/B&Bing.

5/ Folk managed to find their way about the Scottish hills for centuries without a GPS. If I was doing that route, I’d opt for the Corrieyairack and then use some other off-road sections to get to Aviemore (see link to my blog below). You’re missing nothing in terms of scenery if you miss out Loch Ness and it saves a bit of a detour. However, if you do decide to come to Aviemore via Inverness, then take the off-road alternative of NCN7 via the Sluggan Bridge. The EHW takes yet another route from Fort William. One not, IMHO, anywhere as epic or scenic as the Corrieyairack.

6/ Forget carrying extra tyres. There really is no need. I use Maxxis Advents for all my bikepacking.

7/ I would always recommend you book ahead. August is peak season (both the Scottish and English school holidays). Once you get your route decided, post again for some recommendations. FWIW, I’d make a point of staying at The Rumblie in Laggan.

http://www.blog.scotroutes.com/2011/09/c2c-part-1.html

Anything else you want to ask, just add to this thread or email me direct.

Speyside way from craigellachie to fochabers can be replaced with the moray monster trails at ordiquish and also a trip over Ben aigan. although the trails at Ben aigan have been demolished a trip to the summit is still worth it, check up on forestry operations first tho as there’s a lot of felling there just now.

although the trails at Ben aigan have been demolished

Have all the trails on that side gone now? I rode the Hammer a few months back and noticed that a lot of the signs had been removed, but the trail was still there.

The trails are there, but all features have been removed/bulldozed.

We did the WHW 2 weeks ago and my mate did it on a 2007 Hardrock (it was red though) 😀

Can’t answer any of your other questions, but it shouldn’t be too difficult to take a bike back to the US on the plane with you. Some airlines will take them for free, others will charge something like £30-£60. You can buy a bike bag, or just get an old cardboard bike box from a bike shop if you don’t think you’ll use the bag again.

Thanks folks. Exactly the kind of feedback I needed.

Scotroutes, I’d been looking at your blog – I think it is probably why Corrieyairack was in my mind. Sounds like it is pretty great – I’ll keep thinking on this route and post again when decided.

Pleaderwilliams – thanks for the tip. I thought it would be too expensive on the plane. Company are sending me on United – just looked at their page and it seems there’s no surcharge as long as the bike box all told weighs less than 50lbs/23kg as standard. I will get charged for checking a second bag though, but that seems reasonable all things considered.

Will have to look into the Speyside Way alternative bits too.

Cheers!

Hi again folks, proper planning now!

THE UPDATE BIT

Bought the Boardman in June and have been really happy with it – it’s the first really decent bike I’ve bought so I imagine I’m easy to please. Work this summer was busier than anticipated so I’ve only been out with it a few times (~150 miles I’d guess). Have played about in Pollok park a few times and went into the Pentlands on a day off while in Edinburgh (though I didn’t read the map right and ended up at the top of the ski resort instead of at the other end of the park which I gather is better cycling).

Now back in Glasgow and have been trying to build my stamina back up after drinking at the festival for a few weeks. Went out and did the first 20 miles of WHW to Balmaha on Wednesday – turned into 40 miles total once I added in all the on-road bits getting to and from rail stations – and it wiped me out big time, though it was just a half day and I think I timed my snacks wrong with the tough riding bits which was the cause of the muscle cramps.
I went down to Cathkin Braes the other day to check out the Commonwealth course and it is a lot rougher than I thought from watching on camera. I went around twice but took the Blue routes rather than Red on most features. Didn’t even try Braveheart – I’m sure I’m capable but just don’t have the balls to attempt. Again I was only there a couple hours but it sure took it out of me.

I’m taking the bike back to Halfords tomorrow for its wee free tune up – I think this will be the last time I take it there as I’ve not been terribly impressed by the knowledge level of the mechanics, though they’re very nice guys and are as helpful as can be expected from an automotive shop. Basically I think this service is just a once over and a quick adjustment of shifter cables now that they’ve bedded in.

I have almost all the kit I want at present – swapped the Nobby Nics for Racing Ralph Snakeskins as I decided I’d rather move quick over the smooth stuff and have to slow down a bit when it gets technical. Have my pack (Osprey Escapist 30), basic toolkit, lock, spare tube, waterproofs, etc. I bought a Specialized dual shock/tyre pump which turns out to be nearly worthless on tyres but I figure can at least get me going again til I can borrow a track pump or air hose down the road if needed. Still need to get some spare chain links, multivitamin/electrolyte supplements, and some lightweight ‘walking around’ shoes for the evenings.

THE PLANNING THE TRIP BIT

In my OP I said I was only free for the ride until today. Work schedules changed so I’m now free and on ‘forced holiday’ (working visa rules) in Glasgow til 12 September. It means I have more time and (significantly) less money than originally planned. That should be enough context for this section.

QUESTIONS
1 – I have a set of spare brake pads on my shopping list. I’ve never really burnt through them all that quickly but there are quite a few WHW discussions online which mention the need for spares. Do I want to buy these or strike them from my punch list?

2 – I can leave as early as Wednesday morning. Weather report isn’t ideal for the end of the week but isn’t awful. Also it’s bank holiday week but foot traffic was reasonable on Wednesday so I think I’ll be OK. Anything major I’m overlooking here?

3 – As exciting as the Corrieyairack pass sounds I think it may be wiser for me to split this trip into two and do WHW>GGW, then come back to Glasgow for a bit before going back out to do the Speyside Way on a separate trip a few days later. Just financially and logistically easier at this point – and it allows me to complete all three ‘ways’ in their entirety. Save Corrieyairack for another summer.

4 – In terms of taking the ferry from Inversnaid to Tarbet and cycling up A82 in order to avoid that awful bit on the north coast of Loch Lomond, what is it like cycling that bit of road? I’ve driven it many times in cars/vans and it is pretty high stress with very little clearance either side. I don’t imagine there is a way to skip this on a bike – anyone done it? How dangerous is it dealing with traffic through there?

5 – Currently looking at the following itinerary, which has bookings available at reasonable rates for lodging. Based on this do we think I’m being over ambitious in terms of my current state of fitness/stamina?

Day 1, Weds: Milngavie to Crianlarich – 47-50 miles
Probably includes a posh lunch at Inversnaid Hotel while waiting for the ferry. Unless I arrive with no time to spare in which case lunch is in Tarbet.
Stay at Crianlarich Youth Hostel

Day 2, Thurs: Crianlarich to Kinlochleven – 34 miles
Probably lunch at Kingshouse Hotel
Stay at Blackwater Hostel (must pay for double occupancy twin room but still half the price of a B+B)

Day 3, Fri: Kinlochleven to Fort Augustus – 50 miles
Lunch in Ft. William before the long flat bit at the start of GGW
Stay at Morag’s Lodge Hostel

Day 4, Sat: Fort Augustus to Inverness – 40 miles
Last train to Glasgow appears to be 8.15pm. Must start this day early to be safe.

Thanks for following another long post. Thoughts and advice much appreciated. Scotroutes and others, would love to know what you think. And of course if any of you anticipate being out on the trails at the same time let me know – I think I’ll probably be too slow to ride with any of you but would be great to know if we’re likely to cross paths at some point – I’ll buy you a beer!

Alex

Hi,

I’ve done the WHW a couple of times – was considering it next Saturday actually so I’m interested in the weather forecasts.

In response to your questions:

1- Brake pads – definitely carry spares. They weigh nothing and are better to have and not use than not have and need.
4- the ‘bad’ bit on Loch Lomond is two hours of pushing at most, and without it you’re not riding the full WHW. It really isn’t that difficult, just annoying.
5- if you’re doing the Lomond push, I’d suggest Beinnglas as your first night stop. The riding from Crianlarich to Kinlochleven is pretty easy going, with the only exception the long drag to Rannoch Moor and then the Devil’s Staircase, which even then is only 45 mins of uphill. The benefit of not stopping in Crianlarich is that you don’t need to descend into it so you save a climb back out the morning after.

Another option that you may not have considered is to reverse the route. This means you’re not chasing the train, but it does mean you need to climb from Kinlochleven which is a quite frankly horrible push.