Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • whoa… after reading another post, the thought occured…….
  • gordonb
    Free Member

    when putting your cassette back on, how tight to you do the locknut up? I always thought as tight as you can, am I being a monkey?

    G

    muddydwarf
    Free Member

    Only need to nip it up, it can’t go anywhere and the rotation of the wheel will tighten it up anyway. Make sure you use copper slip or some other anti-seize paste as well!

    ssjeff
    Free Member

    35-40nm as it usually says on the locking

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    tight – nice and tight – the wheel rotation will not tighten it and you don’t want the cassette slopping about

    BigJohn
    Full Member

    the rotation of the wheel will tighten it up anyway

    Uhhh?

    RealMan
    Free Member

    Bastard tight, usually. Give it a good whack.

    transapp
    Free Member

    Tighter than is good for it after finally finding that sodding creak was coming from the cassett of all places the ride before I smashed my shoulder……

    Gary_M
    Free Member

    Proper tight here too. How does the rotation of the wheel tighten up the lock ring?

    scaredypants
    Full Member

    I do mine pretty tight but one came loose on me the other week

    Back end of the bike sounded like a bag of spanners in 1 cog but fine on either side – presumably when the chainline was straight the freehub was able to wobble about but got pulled to one side & held there when it wasn’t quite straight

    muddydwarf
    Free Member

    Sorry, wrong wording! 😳

    Meaning that the effort involved in pedalling is driving the cassette and lockring clockwise therefore unlikely to have it unscrew itself. 35 Nm isn’t a particularly high force so tightening it up til your gurning like a monkey shitting a pineapple isn’t going to do your freehub any good. I do mine tight, but not stupid tight so it won’t come off ever again! Without a spot of copperslip etc they can ‘spot -weld’ on over time – apparently, had this explained to me by a shop mechanic who’d been on the cytech course. It seems that when steel and aluminium come into contact with a water interface the resulting difference in electrical properties of the two materials can cause micro welds to occur, making the parts hellishly difficult to move. Alu seatposts in steel frames are the classic example.
    This does assume you have an alu freehub and steel lockring of course.

    EDIT : lockrings/hub bodies do also have those serrated ‘teeth’ that lock together to prevent slippage as well, so tight but not stupid tight is what i was meaning!

    bruneep
    Full Member

    Aye Bastard tight then back off a 1/4 turn when you strip the threads. 😉

    merlinshearer
    Free Member

    40NM – and yes I use a torque wrench! or was that another thread….. 😉

    andrewh
    Free Member

    I overtightened mine onto a Tune hub and broke it! Man from Poshbikes said it had to be done up “really tight”, as tight as I could get it.
    I am now the proud owner of a torque wrench.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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